P80 front door repairs and questions?

[scot850]

My project V70 is inching along extremely slowly due to the arrival of a high energy 4 month old Husky/Lab puppy.

So far I have re-glued the front door panels due to the bio-degradable glue issue, re-glued the mounts and cleaned the panels for re-installation.

Before re-fitting the front panels I have 2 questions:

1) The LH (driver side) front panel when removed left the rubber seal attached to the top of the door by the glass. The RH front one the whole strip came off with the door. Is this an issue or will the LHF one just slide back into the rubber seal? Or, am I better removing it first and re-attaching to the inner panel first and then re-fit? Strangely the same thing happened on 2 spare panels I got from PnP on the same doors!!?

2) I plan to 'lube' the door moving internals and lock while the inner panel is off. The only real question is how do you access the front runner wheel on the doors? Do you have to pull the speaker first?

Just have to replace the RHF door actuator and hopefully the doors are then all good. Tailgate panel is also repaired with the Pro=parts kit from FCP. Fixing the panel was easy, but it took 3 hours to scrape all the tape glue carefully off the lower tailgate glass so not to damage the heater elements!

Thanks,

Neil.

[bmdubya1198]

You can leave the rubber strips on the door. Every time I've taken door panels off, I leave them on the door and the top of the panel just slides into place over them.
Just be very careful with the tailgate and make sure once it's repaired, you don't have to take the panel off again. I made that mistake by removing it after using the repair kit. It's a good kit, but the plastic tailgate panel just keep breaking because it's so brittle. Luckily the PO of my car only put some double sided tape on the upper half of the panel where the upper piece meets it. People are always so courteous with tape and glue...

[BEJinFbk]

With a 12 volt power source, you can directly connect
to the window motor and position it to access both rollers.

A small gel-cell battery with about a six foot lead is pretty
handy for the job. We used to have one in the shop with a
momentary DPDT switch built into the cable. Handy!

https://www.radioshack.com/products/20a ... fgod0B4Fcw

http://www.robotroom.com/DPDT-Bidirecti ... witch.html

[scot850]

Thanks for the suggestion, but to position the windows I can just use spare controllers I have. What I am trying to figure out is do you have to remove the door speaker to get access to the front window roller to lube it? I guess I'll jut have to take one out and look tomorrow.

Thanks for suggestions and advice guys.

Neil.

[scot850]

Well to answer my own question, to access the electric window rollers for the front windows you can access the rearmost one through the access hatch in the door near the actuator. Removing the black shield gives you access with a spray can (I use spray lithium grease) the roller and the channel which is almost directly above the front edge of the access panel hole.

The front roller requires not removing the door speakers as I thought, but removing the 4 screws for the inner door handle panel and then carefully removing the rectangular foam panel behind it. The roller and channel are again almost directly above the hole. I re-attached the foam cover using double sided tape.

So for the purposes of this exercise to lube the runners no window controllers were required.

Neil.