Hello all, my 2004 S60 2.5T AWD got the dreaded low oil pressure warning, so doing PCV and oil pan cleaning.
I have the PCV parts removed for replacement, they were severely gunked!
One question, the $200 turbo cooler pipe has one broken part but the rest looks good, are there any economical fixes or cheaper parts, or just pay it? I saw IPD has a $100 version, anyone use that?
I also have the oil pan off to clean the oil pickup tube, replace oil seals, etc.
While I have the bottom of the engine open, is there any other inspection or maintenance I can or should do?
Thanks for all the great info I found on this site!
2004 S60 2.5T, What to inspect while oil pan is off, and PCV question
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mkbell2000
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 18 September 2013
- Year and Model: 2004 S60
- Location: United States
- oragex
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- Year and Model: S60 2003
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Sludge is one thing, low oil pressure is a whole other level. There is a chance the sludge prevented the rod bearings from getting proper lubrication. If one heated, it may look brownish compared to the others. The bearing must be checked for clearance, or worst for play.
Clean the oil passage inside the pan, inspect the oil filter bypass valve, inspect the oil cooler pipes, look closer to the suction pipe strainer - it has a tendency to bend from pressure when it gets clogged.
Clean the oil passage inside the pan, inspect the oil filter bypass valve, inspect the oil cooler pipes, look closer to the suction pipe strainer - it has a tendency to bend from pressure when it gets clogged.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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mkbell2000
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 18 September 2013
- Year and Model: 2004 S60
- Location: United States
Thanks oragex! I found some of your other comments on similar topics so appreciate your feedback.
I tried the trick of removing a spark plug and pushing down pistons with a screwdriver, no movement.
Should I remove a connecting rod end and check the bearing and crank? Nothing looks differently discolored, it's all browny/varnished looking.
I don't want to spend $300+ on PCV and oil pan parts and time reassembling, just to find rod knock shortly after starting or soon after.
When I started it to drive it onto ramps, it was pretty loud at first but then got quieter. I watched a few rod knock videos and it was similar but not as loud/pronounced. But maybe I'm listening optimistically
On the other hand, DIY repair and getting it running with some knock may be good enough to trade it in or sell to someone who wants to deal with it properly.
Regarding oil bypass valve, I see this in the pan, assume I can remove and blast with carb cleaner. Or should this be replaced? Don't know exactly what it does, or how to tell if it's bad.
I tried the trick of removing a spark plug and pushing down pistons with a screwdriver, no movement.
Should I remove a connecting rod end and check the bearing and crank? Nothing looks differently discolored, it's all browny/varnished looking.
I don't want to spend $300+ on PCV and oil pan parts and time reassembling, just to find rod knock shortly after starting or soon after.
When I started it to drive it onto ramps, it was pretty loud at first but then got quieter. I watched a few rod knock videos and it was similar but not as loud/pronounced. But maybe I'm listening optimistically
On the other hand, DIY repair and getting it running with some knock may be good enough to trade it in or sell to someone who wants to deal with it properly.
Regarding oil bypass valve, I see this in the pan, assume I can remove and blast with carb cleaner. Or should this be replaced? Don't know exactly what it does, or how to tell if it's bad.
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