Power Lock Issue Post-"Fix"

[benpineapple]

Hello! So a couple weeks back I purchased a new fob for my wagon (thanks bmdubya1198!) and got it synced at a dealership (they didn't charge me anything! Clerk was able to do it without involving a tech). And then I decided I'd replace some of the lock mechanisms, as I've had issues with them since getting the car. Rear DS lock was the only one in the car that would lock and unlock (with the fob, or with the button inside).

So, I hit a pick n pull, got/tested 3 locks (both PS, front DS), and installed them all. Boom! Loving the fob life, which now unlocks all 5 doors. Here's the issue that has presented immediately since the fix:
-Power lock button does not work (DS and PS), no sound from the locks, nothing
-Trunk lock button does not work (unlocking with fob unlocks trunk)
-Fuel door lock does not work
-Rocking the key on the outside of the car does not work to unlock all doors

Any ideas? It's not the master switch, I put a buddy's working master switch in, with no symptom change. Ask me questions if you need clarifications.

Right now I'm thinking relay-related? Are there two relays? One for remote locking, one for local locking?

Thanks!

Edit:
TL/DR
Key fob works to unlock and lock all doors, buttons inside car don't work to lock or unlock anything.

[scot850]

I am having difficulty following what the issues are.

You replaced 3 door lock actuators (?) with ones from a junkyard. When you say you tested them, what did you do? Locks can work in one direction but not the other when the plastic internals break. So are you sure they are 'good' replacements?

What do you mean Power Lock button does not work. Do you mean the one in the door master panel on the DS front door and on the PS front door? Have you checked the wiring to the master switch is fully seated? I know you swapped for a know good one. Have you checked the wiring harnesses at the door has clean pins at the connector on the front of the doors?

Trunk lock is likely a broken wire in the tailgate harness at the LH hinge or a bad wire in the tailgate at the lock. Did this work before the fixes or was it always broken?

When you talk about rocking the key, do you mean you tried locking and unlocking the drivers door lock with the key? Sometimes the system can get confused. Try disconnecting the battery and reconnect it. Then try a reset by locking and un-locking the drivers door lock a couple of times.

Are you sure you got the correct actuators? There are single stage and 2 stage. Single stage only opens the drivers front door on first press and then the rest on the 2nd pass which also un-locks the fuel flap actuator.

Neil.

[benpineapple]

I am having difficulty following what the issues are.

You replaced 3 door lock actuators (?) with ones from a junkyard. When you say you tested them, what did you do? Locks can work in one direction but not the other when the plastic internals break. So are you sure they are 'good' replacements?

What do you mean Power Lock button does not work. Do you mean the one in the door master panel on the DS front door and on the PS front door? Have you checked the wiring to the master switch is fully seated? I know you swapped for a know good one. Have you checked the wiring harnesses at the door has clean pins at the connector on the front of the doors?

Trunk lock is likely a broken wire in the tailgate harness at the LH hinge or a bad wire in the tailgate at the lock. Did this work before the fixes or was it always broken?

When you talk about rocking the key, do you mean you tried locking and unlocking the drivers door lock with the key? Sometimes the system can get confused. Try disconnecting the battery and reconnect it. Then try a reset by locking and un-locking the drivers door lock a couple of times.

Are you sure you got the correct actuators? There are single stage and 2 stage. Single stage only opens the drivers front door on first press and then the rest on the 2nd pass which also un-locks the fuel flap actuator.

Neil.

Neil, sorry for the poorly written post. I will edit it for clarity.

When I say "tested" I mean that I verified they were good by testing for impedance with my multimeter. I also "tested" by physically rotating the actuator to make sure that the plastic internal tab hadn't broken. All 3 that I pulled from the junkyard tested good to lock and unlock. All 3 locks I pulled were off either a '98, or a '99 V/S70, and part numbers printed on replacement locks were identical to the locks I removed from my wagon. I am sure they are good replacements, as the key fob can unlock and lock all doors.

Power lock button on the master switch (DS) does not lock/unlock, power lock button on the PS door switch also does not lock/unlock. I used wire contact cleaner on all terminals.

Trunk lock functions with the fob.

When I talk about "rocking" they key, I do indeed mean to say locking and unlocking with the key, which is what usually unlocks all doors. I believe that issue is related to the switch issue inside the car.

I believe that the actuators are 2-stage, as the part #s on the replacements were identical to the ones pulled from my car. Evidence of them being single-stage: when clicking the fob once, only driver's door unlocks. Double-pressing the key fob unlocks all doors.

[scot850]

Yes I have to say I am a little confused on what is actually wrong. If all the buttons work now from the fob, other than the internal button control on the master switch and passenger front door, can you break down by door what the issues now are.

Thanks,

Neil.

P.S. Come to think of it, I think the actuators are just that if I recall. It is the control system for the locks that determines the one or 2 stage locking and not the actuators.

[obayha]

No answer, but you may be on to something, thinking about two relays. For everything to work with the FOB and not the master switch seems to lead in that direction. The FOB would not go through the DS master and would work off something different. Relay or fuse maybe? Should be a wire diagram to show everything. I am not saying the wires in the tail gate are not the problem, but the FOB sends the signal through the same wire, and it unlocks the tail.
Do not lock and unlock to many times in a short period or it can cause problems.
Shane