Oil leak after clutch replacement Topic is solved

[jeffsws]

Hello.

About a month ago I sent my Volvo 850 to the shop to get the clutch replaced. At request, they also changed the rear main seal and the driver side axle boot. Apart from the boot everything is Volvo original.

I haven't really driven the car much since then as I'm in the middle of a PCV repair. Not for any particular reason other than why not and to learn. Due to issues with ordering the wrong parts and waiting for the correct parts to arrive the car has been sitting for a while now and today I notice a puddle of oil under the car. Based on the pictures what is the best guess as to what is leaking?

https://goo.gl/photos/XATjB2oZrWeVgPrk6

Cheers for any help!
Jeff

[theWIFES_S70]

Jeff, that's a textbook axle seal replacement job you have to get done. Seems like the shop didn't remove and insert the axles with enough care and tore up the seals. The Corteco seals are pretty inexpensive. Over at FCP they're on sale right now, the two are about ten bucks!!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/S70 ... =20&page=1

Pop off the axles
Pop off the old seals,
Put in new, lubricated seals,
Pop in lubricated axles...

Make sure you fill the transmission case up with the appropriate gear oil. I let it go for a while like that and it got pretty low.

[misha]

From the 1st few pictures i would say RMS,but on the last two i would say axle seal and it makes it look like it's rms.
Clean both of them and check again.

[abscate]

You need to identify the oil as either transmission oil or engine oil. Should be easy. That will tell you if its RMS (engine oil) or axle seal (transmission oil)

Smell will work here nicely.

[jeffsws]

Thank you for the responses. I have an axle seal replacement on hand as that was supposed to be done during the clutch job but the part didn't arrive in time. I'll probably go ahead and change that and clean up oil mess and then see how that fairs.

[JimBee]

A useful tool for setting the new seal is a stub of 2" PVC plumbing pipe. The seal I just installed held itself in place with a little hand pressure, then I tapped around the edges lightly with a hammer to set it more firmly.

From there, the 2 inch PVC worked well because it's the diameter of the outer steel ring of the seal, so you won't damage the raised rubber part that contains the garter spring. You can kind of work your way around the edge to assure even setting. I found that a medium heavy, 2 lb hammer, used gently, provides good control of the process. As others have written on MVS, you want the steel rim of the seal just barely recessed in the transmission case, just enough so you can feel the edge of the casting around the seal.

Put a little transmission fluid on the seal and the axle should slide right on through.

[jeffsws]

Make sure you fill the transmission case up with the appropriate gear oil. I let it go for a while like that and it got pretty low.

I actually have no idea what transmission fluid is in there now. Can I mix assuming it's appropriate fluid?

[theWIFES_S70]

You need a 24mm box end or combination wrench to open the fill and the drain bolts. (Make sure you crack open the fill one first.) And a flexible funnel, about $5 at Walmart.

Any of these will work... I researched every oil that works. Sone are better than others. We use OE Volvo fluid. But i'd use Mobil1 if I had to do it again.

viewtopic.php?t=72329

[jeffsws]

Okay I've finally gotten around to this. I'm trying to remove the old seal with pliers and it's coming out in pieces... I don't have any specific tools to remove seals. Any tips?

[Ozark Lee]

I just get a screwdriver behind it and pop it out. Be careful not to put a deep gouge the socket that the seal is installed in or it can cause a leak around the outside edge of the seal. Another technique is to drill a small hole in the edge and run a screw into it and then yank it out with pliers. You are space limited on the inboard seal and it is awkward to get to it which is frustrating since you can see it quite well.

...Lee