can bad battery jam shifter?

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 11 Sep 2017, 15:19

I've been having the "can't turn key in ignition/can't move shifter out of park" problem on and off for a few weeks. Now worse. Battery also required jumps twice during this time. AAA (my jumpers failed) says battery is bad but I didn't buy their replacement. Can a borderline battery cause the ignition/shifter locking mechanism(s) to fail? Seems like low/inconsistent voltages might trigger this.

Can a borderline battery also cause seemingly unrelated codes? I recently replaced J and L hoses of evaporative system to correct P0442 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (large leak). Now left with P0442 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak) even though I also replaced fuel cap with Volvo/OEM cap. I know there may be other small leaks requiring detective work or smoking but I'm also wondering if electrical instability might trigger such "codes" spuriously.

What should I look for in a replacement battery? Do I really need to spend almost $200 for a good one. Would like a new battery to service both 1998 V70 T5 and 2014 XC70.

Thanks!

Post by **scot850** » 11 Sep 2017, 15:28

I know in the US you can get batteries for the car from the likes of Costco and Walmart that would be ok. The standard battery up in Canada is a 520CCA from Volvo made by Interstate. You can usually buy an equivalent or better battery direct from Interstate (I think they do a 600CCA and there is a bigger output also available).

For me it is down to the warranty and how long do I plan to keep the car. If I am planning to keep the car long term then I buy a better battery.

As to the issues of battery v's electrical issues then the answer can be yes. Provided the alternator is good, then the battery needs about 9.5V to start the car and overcome any security issues. So fit the battery and see what happens.

Also check the shift lever button is not sticking as that will cause problems with the key/shifter not working.

Neil.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 11 Sep 2017, 17:06

You can get a more basic battery from Walmart. I have a (N)Everstart that I got at Walmart that has been great for the 2 years or so I've had it. Just make sure you get the more premium one. I think I spent around $130-$140.
I got a battery recently for my mom's Elantra at Firestone for around $160. It's an Interstate Megatron II that is the same size as the one these Volvo require.
I'm not sure a battery will fit the same in your XC70 and your V70. If you're referring to the 2004 in your signature, the P2 uses a trunk mounted battery which is larger than the P80 battery, I believe.

Anyway, the battery could be an issue if the voltage is really low. It can throw random lights and everything. Like Neil said, check your shifter button, that may be stuck.
I think there's also some type of cable between the ignition switch and the shift lock. That may be something worth looking into.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 11 Sep 2017, 19:26

Thanks. I'll see what a new battery does for the codes What's the easiest way to check the alternator? Multimeter if I find the right terminals? The shifter button moves very freely. I'm pretty sure it's ok but the cable might be loose. The XC70 does have trunk battery. I thought the clamp might be forgiving of size but maybe not.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 11 Sep 2017, 20:51

Easiest way to check alternator voltage (while running of course) is to put the positive lead on the B+ terminal on the alternator and the negative on the alternator body. Also test the voltage on the battery while running and note any difference.
You could look up the battery size for the XC70, but I'm pretty sure they have larger batteries. It may work, you would have to try it for yourself.

Post by **scot850** » 11 Sep 2017, 21:40

Some of your parts shops like Autozone can test the battery and charging system for free if you are not sure what to do.

Neil.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 11 Sep 2017, 23:15

Let autozone charge that battery first. If they determine it is bad, then have them replace it. Usually it will take at least 4-10 hours for a proper charge.

After it is properly charged, or replaced, have them test the charging system.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Sep 2017, 05:34

A low battery will probably throw a bunch of codes, not just a evap code. That's a real problem and covered here on lots of threads.

Your 1998 is much more tolerant of voltage issues than the 1999-on , but you don't have a sexy Italian throttle body

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 12 Sep 2017, 08:25

abscate wrote: ↑12 Sep 2017, 05:34 ...but you don't have a sexy Italian throttle body

No, our throttle bodies actually work

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 17 Sep 2017, 16:36

AAA jumped the car last week when the battery was dead for the second time in a month and said the battery was bad. I wasn't there and didn't get a great description of what they actually did from the person who was there for the jump. Presumably AAA tested the charging system and found it was OK.

I jumped it today. Voltage across battery terminals was a little over 14 volts while running. Idled 50 minutes. Car turned off, battery voltage was over 12v and an immediate test restart was good and strong. 30 minutes later battery was at ~11.7 volts and car would not start.

Does this sound like the charging system is OK and the battery is bad (from becoming fully discharged twice recently)? Might a trickle charger resurrect this battery?