2002 v70 2.4T power steering leak

Post by **ljsommar** » 18 Jan 2018, 15:53

After replacing the original PS pump, reservoir and rubber hose I have a leak. It is leaking at the pressure hose- where the nut(connects to the pump)and hard line join.
I was as careful when I disconnected that line but perhaps not careful enough. I tried JB weld to seal it to no avail.

Any ideas out there short of a $180 new pressure line?

Thanks.

Post by **oragex** » 18 Jan 2018, 16:19

Is it indeed leaking at the metal line, and not at the rubber hose? The rubber hose is very prone to leaking even with two collars because the rubber wears inside - just chop off the last inch of the hose if it leaks

As for the metal line, do you have the locking bracket that goes over the nut? The bracket is secured to the right upper pump bolt, and prevents the nut from self-loosening from vibrations.

The other reason is there is a small rubber seal if I remember well, may undo the line, check the seal and clean everything including inside the pump so no tiny dust particle remains. As for tightening the nut, I don't have the specs, it must be tight but not over tight or the alloy will give up. The threads inside the pump can get damaged from over-tightening this nut.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 18 Jan 2018, 16:48

Did you miss a O ring or crack the hard line?

If the line had play after you tightened it down you missed the O ring.
If there was no play whatsoever, physical damage to the line.

As far as cleaning off J.B Wield. If it did not fully cure Acetone sometimes will clean it off.
As for fully cured J.B Wield. Only two thing will get it off, 600°F will break it down chemically ... you break in down and brush it off little at a time not burn it off in fire and brimstone. The other is to physically grind it off.

Post by **vtl** » 18 Jan 2018, 19:59

2002 don't have that locking bracket oragex is talking about. You need to purchase it separately. Here you can see it installed:

You need to replace O-ring as well, it might be crushed, this the leak. Tighten it by hand, no wrench is needed, otherwise a new O-ring is at risk.

Post by **ljsommar** » 18 Jan 2018, 20:30

Yes, it is indeed leaking at the metal line. Mine does not have the bracket but is not coming loose or leaking right at the pump but rather at the hard line/nut junction.

I am the second owner, but the car was only serviced at Volvo prior to me. Purchased at 78K miles, now at 199K.

I am pretty sure I did not crack the hard line and it had no play when I tightened it. Initially I snugged it up not over tight but I made several attempts to stop the leak. Now it is quite tight and the JB weld is fully cured.

I suppose the seal inside is shot(I did not inspect it). Is that O ring or seal replaceable? Is it at the back of the nut or at the front where it connects to the pump?

Post by **vtl** » 18 Jan 2018, 20:38

Sounds like the O-ring is indeed crushed. It is replaceable (you need oil-resistant O-ring of course). Sits at the front.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 19 Jan 2018, 01:01

it had no play when I tightened it.

If you missed the O ring there was play. The play it is real subtle, if one does not know what to expect it can be easy missed.

: Oring.jpg (92.35 KiB) Viewed 1602 times

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jan 2018, 10:17

Brake fluid will melt JB weld like magic.

I would take that apart and replace the broken/missing Oring

Post by **ljsommar** » 19 Jan 2018, 14:51

Wow, thanks for the tip about brake fluid. I am glad the car was gone today, didn't have a chance to try to grind off the JB weld. I will attempt disassembly and post back.

What a great forum, I am continually impressed with the level of expertise and willingness to help.
Makes me feel pretty stupid but I can live with that.

Thank you all for the great input.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 19 Jan 2018, 15:34

Some guys make the mistake of doing a repair then exposing the JB Weld to brake fluid before it is fully cured. Brake fluid will react with uncured JB Weld and turn it into a sticky goo. It think the sticky goo will wash off with Acetone but don't quote me on that. Goo is not my thing.

After the JB Weld is fully cured it will not react with Brake fluid. If your going to try brake fluid you need to get on it right now and stay on top of it because, when the JB Weld is fully cured the window of opportunity closes. If you been getting cold weather and the car is exposed to the cold weather the window of opportunity may not be closed. Low temperatures slow down the chemical reaction.

There is a difference between set and fully cured.