Leaks galore

[jtp]

I’ve got the wagon out of commission for a few days waiting on a rear brake pad retaining spring.

So with the opportunity to get into a few things without needing it for work in the AM I spent a lot of time around the car today.

And in true fashion with this car it rewards me with multiple new leaks.

Possible Camshaft Seal Leaks:

1) it’s continuously pouring oil out around the coils underneath the plastic cover. The rear camshaft wheel on the timing belt that is closest to the windshield is damp whereas the other rear cam wheel is bone dry, is this enough evidence that the seal is blown it should or should I look for some other proof?
(Edit: after some research I realize what I’m referring to here is the exhaust valve VVT cam seal)

2) I know the front cam seal is a likely culprit, I have the telltale oil dripping off the tranny. I just can’t see that area of the engine at all, are there any other signs I’ve got a front cam seal leak that I can look for?

Turbo Leaking:

Cold side of the turbo is soaking wet in oil and it’s spraying a lot of oil up into the top intercooler pipe. I realize that means it’s internals are on the way out, but as far as the cold side being covered in oil is that typically the turbo oil seal I always hear about?

It’s also leaking on the drive axle around the transfer case and the rack is leaking bad on the passenger side. I don’t have questions about those leaks for now, they just suck

Underside was dry as a bone 10K miles ago.

Man this car is killing me.

[wizechatmgr]

As far as turbo goes - I have the same leak and will be reworking mine this spring/summer.

Would also suggest you check and double check your oil cap. These like to leak and pour oil onto the top of the engine. That doesn't mean you don't have the other oil leaks - as they are entirely possible.

[RickHaleParker]

This procedure will eliminate a lot of guesswork.

• 1) Leave the plastic spark plug cover off.
  (2) Go buy a bottle of trace dye and a ultraviolet light.
  (3) On the way home, stop at the car wash.
  (4) Degrease and power wash the engine, get all the oil off.
  (5) Add the trace dye to the engine oil.
  (6) Run it hard on the way home.
  (7) When you get home, park in the garage or the shade.
  (8) Using the ultraviolet light, look for the leaks.

You will be able to trace the leaks back to the source because the trace dye leaves a trail to follow.

[scot850]

Rick and wizechatmgr both have great points. I'm trying (poorly!) to recall if you have done the PCV check and service on this car? If not do the rubber glove test. That means remove the oil filler cap and fit a rubber glove over the opening. Start te car and see if it inflates or not. If it doesn't, increase the engine revs and see if it makes a difference. If no, then you are good, if it does inflate in either version of low or high revs the PCV is getting or is clogged causing the crankcase to pressurize and it will blow any or all seals out of the block over time. Cams seals and rear main are the first to usually go.

If you have no inflating glove, then check the oil cap seal. It should be soft and pliable. If it is hard it is way past due replacing. Some cheap aftermarket ones don't last well and leak quickly. Some recommend replacing it ever couple of years or so. When they go hard, then the oil weeps past the seal and drains into the spark plug holes. Usually #2 and #3 first.

If your PCV system does show signs of pressurizing, raise the dipstick slightly and wrap a cloth around the shaft to catch any leaking oil from there. You will probably get a small of engine oil, but better that than blown seals. Then do PCV service ASAP.

Neil.

[jtp]

Thanks guys!

PCV was done about 20K miles ago. It had terrible positive pressure when I bought it and the PCV job made it a lot better. I do need to do the glove test, it shows signs of some positive pressure still just not nearly as bad as before the PCV job, that will tell me for sure. On the to do list for tonight.

I will also remove the TB cover tonight and snap a pic and see what you guys think. I can kind of see down in there and it doesnt look pretty.

I am thinking that I may have helped things along with any oil leaks with a SeaFoam in the crankcase treatment right before my last oil change ~ 1000 miles ago.

I also used ATF in the PS resovoir when I replaced it a couple weeks back as opposed to the hydraulic fluid I think people have upgraded to. It says ATF in my manual for PS fluid but Im going to switch the whole system over to the pentosin stuff thats OEM hydraulic fluid equivalent prior to swapping the rack. Just seems like too much of a coincedence that a bunch of new ATF fluid coincided with a dry rack blowing a seal.

I spent a lot of time cleaning the cam cover like RickHaleParker was saying but Ive avoided alot of water due to the spark holes. Its 10K overdue on plugs so Im gonna swap them out while the cam cover is off and I dont want anything weird getting in there

Edit: I forgot to mention the oil cap seal, I replaced it with the HD IPD version 1500ish miles ago and the oil on the cam cover issue got a lot better for a short period of time. After several hundred miles the issue started right back up. Seal looks to be in fine condition whereas the one it replaced was brittle and falling apart when I removed it.

Also snagged some dye at work, will get everything cleaned up and then run it through tomorrow or the next day.

[scot850]

Also check the PCV pipe to the cylinder hear that sits between #2 and #3 cylinder. The car I have been working on this had been replaced by a Volvo specialist and they had not crimped the oetiker clip enough so it was loose and had worked loose enough to leak.
New clip crimped properly and it is now all good.

Neil.

[jtp]

Got the timing cover off, I can’t really get good pics with the Coolant and PS Resevoir in the way and no daylight.

It’s basically wetter the lower and further back (toward the passenger seat) you go down the front of the engine. Definitely damp up to the level of the cam seals (but more noticeable closer to the exhaust cam side) and in the lowest furthest back point on that side of the engine there is oil pooling.

My gut is it’s either a cam seal/something in that area or there’s enough positive crankcase pressure to continually blow the oil cap seals and the oil is coming over the top of the engine.

Im gonna run dye through tomorrow night and glove test it. I’m waiting on a coil coming in the mail that needed replacement based on the plastic casing coming apart so I’m tapped out for now.

[rspi]

First thing I would do is the glove test. If the car passes the glove test then look for leaks.

It is pretty much normal for oil to be on top of the cam cover, sad to say.

As for the exhaust cam it can be 2 things; 1. VVT hub seal. 2. Cam seal. Swedish car parts now carries the VVT hub seal. Either way, it's no fun and you should get a good cam locking tool to fix it.

[jtp]

First thing I would do is the glove test. If the car passes the glove test then look for leaks.

It is pretty much normal for oil to be on top of the cam cover, sad to say.

As for the exhaust cam it can be 2 things; 1. VVT hub seal. 2. Cam seal. Swedish car parts now carries the VVT hub seal. Either way, it's no fun and you should get a good cam locking tool to fix it.

Rgr thanks RSPI!

Gonna glove test it tomorrow. Will report back.

[jtp]

First thing I would do is the glove test. If the car passes the glove test then look for leaks.

It is pretty much normal for oil to be on top of the cam cover, sad to say.

As for the exhaust cam it can be 2 things; 1. VVT hub seal. 2. Cam seal. Swedish car parts now carries the VVT hub seal. Either way, it's no fun and you should get a good cam locking tool to fix it.

Ok did the glove test finally. Really good vacuum at the oil cap fill hole. I was kind of surprised how much vacuum was there.

I added some dye to the oil and have been running it a bit today and then looking for any leaks. Borrowed the special flashlight and goggles from a tech at work and I’m seeing no leaks so far.

Gonna leave the TB cover off and drive it hard tomorrow some more and hopefully I can find where the leak is.