1999 V70 Codes, Dash Lights, and Oil Smell

[AaronsVolvo]

Hello everyone, I am looking into taking on a 1999 Volvo V70 base model as a project car. I have a friend giving one away for free because they are tired of dealing with its issues. I have never owned a Volvo before but I really like this car.

Okay so the codes-
P0722
P1057
P0600
P0420

It drives well, but will not pass emissions due to the CEL. When they had it emissions check when they first bought it 6/2017 it passed, O2 sensors and cat were good.
I drove it up to around 25-30 Mph around their street and it drove fine, it had power, no shifting issues. We let it idle a while, probably 25 minutes while we looked the exterior over and under the hood. No issues their, the rev counter didn't bounce around at all. The AC blew plenty cold.
I forgot to check to see if all of the windows would roll up and down and I also forgot to give the ABS a good test.

When I drove it I started smelling burnt oil through the AC system... what should the first thing I check on this? Is there a common fault area on this model year that could be something to check out first?

Under the car around the drivers seat there was a brown puddle, kinda seemed like transmission fluid possibly. It was not much though, thoughts on this?

On the dash upon first cranking the ABS light, CEL, Brake, Washer fluid, Low coolant level, and hatch open are all lit up. After sitting for a bit several turned off except for service, CEL, washer fluid, and hatch.

They said oftentimes the speedometer will go out and come back on and the car will have issues changing gears. They live on a hill and have had to get a strong running start to get it up the driveway before, it didn't do this for me though at all. So I know its a sensor, my guess is I either need the transmission speed sensor or the ABS module rebuilt?

The hatch light also raised my curiosity, I have never had a car think the trunk was open before... which part and where is it located should I be looking at?

In the 45 minutes or so it was running it never overheated, but the low coolant light was on the whole time. We added some fluid to the tank to reach the max line, turned the car off and back on, no change. I would guess this is a sensor issue also?

The current owners have replaced the alternator, the rack and pinion steering, and several other parts like the headlights and a couple hoses. After all of this they decided they did not want to put more money into it, the shop quoted them $600 for the transmission speed sensor alone. That was before the hatch light and coolant light came on.

I know its going to need the transmission fluid change, how much fluid does it hold? I know not to do the fluid flush but to change part at a time until it comes out red.

My biggest concerns before I take this car are-P0420, is the catalytic converter gone? It passed 6/17 just fine...
the possible tran leak and the oil smell.

I will also have to replace the MAF, I unplugged it while the car was idling and the car did not cut off or change at all.

What do you guys with experience think about all of this?
Because it is free, I would like to take this car on as a side project for fun but I am not prepared to do any major work such as a transmission rebuild, an expensive volvo cat, or a major oil leak(i doubt the oil leak is major though).

Thanks in Advance, Aaron

[AaronsVolvo]

This is the report from their mechanic a few months ago.

[scot850]

With a 99 the electrical system became a bit more complex. At least being a non-turbo there are a few less issues to deal with potentially.

First a possible simple issue - oil smell. Could be as simple as the oil seal ring on the oil filler cap needs replaced. If there is a lot of oil in the area of the filler cap change it but use a good quality like OE Volvo. Yes more expensive, but last longer and is the correct thickness. Some aftermarket go hard and brittle in months or can be too thin so leak.

While you have the oil cap off, cover the filler hole with a rubber or latex glove and get someone to rev the engine and see if it inflates. If it does, then the PCV (crankcase breather system) needs serviced or it will blow the engine oil seals out.

The stain under the drivers seat area. Is the windshield greasy near the bottom, and is the under carpet under the drivers seat (not the top carpet as they can be rubberised on the rear preventing damp coming up and through), or the drivers side rear carpet wet with a sweet smell? If so the heater core is leaking. Part is not too expensive and job is covered in database here on MVS.

All lights coming on can when starting can be 2 or 3 issues. ABS module may be failing and that can affect many system warning lights as well as random speedo and odometer function.

A second issue could be a worn out electrical section of the ignition switch. Does wiggling the key make a difference to the lights being on or off?

That is all I have time for just now but it is a start to be getting on with.

Neil.

[RickHaleParker]

It looks like this is a non-turbo car, can you confirm?

My biggest concerns before I take this car are-P0420, is the catalytic converter gone?

P0420 Possible sources

• Air leakage in the exhaust system
  One or more damaged injectors.
  Damaged catalytic converter.

Fix P0722 and P0600 then P1057 should clear up. P0722 and P0600 is most likely wiring.

[abscate]

The ABS units are a known failure problem at old age, but the fix is only$100. You can open it up and butcher it or send it to mattymoo at midwestabs for a good fix.

These cars read the speed using the ABS module and the transmission needs the speed of the car to know when to shift,,,so I'm guessing the abs stone will kill three birds, if you have lead a clean life.

Get the car up in ramps and ID that leak , probably transmission fluid. That could be an expensive fix

Your MAF test isn't meaningful, leave that alone now and conserve cash

Remember these cars always look like $1,000,000 because they cost that new. They use high quality, expensive parts.
They are not a cheap ride, even if the car is free. Plan on $1000-2000 to get it good running condition

[AaronsVolvo]

Thank you all for the help. It is a non turbo.

I did not notice any wet carpet, but last night after we had seen the car and gone home my friend said they have smelled anti freeze in the cabin before when running the heat. I noticed when we tested the heat it did not get as hot as I would have liked, just a little more than warm.

Ill hold off on the MAF for now. We looked at the car in the dark yesterday evening, next I need to go over and check out under the car in daylight. After my friend told me about the anti freeze smell I'm wondering if that puddle isn't anti freeze, not tran fluid(boy that would be nice, I can replace a heater core much easier than a tran!).

Ok I will do the glove test next.
Could the PCV seals possibly cause the oil smell?

Where should I be looking for the vacuum leak(if it is vacuum and not a cat)?

[Iann]

I bet your heater core is leaking that brown water.
Also a clogged heater core is a possibility
Fairly easy fix by watching https://youtu.be/cD7L9hzHtNo

[AaronsVolvo]

That looks easy enough to do. So I need the Behr heater core and two silicone O-Rings, plus the clamps for the hose.
Thank You!
I have a feeling that it is the heater core leaking and not the tran, I really just need to look under it up on a jack in daylight.

[RickHaleParker]

You can tell the difference between Transmission fluid and Antifreeze with your fingers. Transmission fluid is Oil based and slick, Antifreeze is water based and not slick.

Could the PCV seals possibly cause the oil smell?

A clogged PCV system will let the crankcase pressure to build up. The pressure build up could force oil past seals.

[rspi]

Free? What's that mean?