'99 V70XC rear spring riser?

[ForestVolvo]

I have a '99 V70XC and several years ago changed out rear Nivomat and springs to S70 AWD rear damper and springs (I was unable to afford replacement Nivomats) and have since had obvious alignment issues.

I still have original springs (for either posterity or really big hopes that I stumble upon some Nivomats on the sidewalk.) Within those past several years, we burned through a new set of tires (yes, I know because it is out of alignment in the rear). Just put on another new set and don't want to go through those like the last set.

I still am unable to justify spending $500+ for 2 dampers considering the fact that the car's trade-in value is (maybe) twice the bill for those 2 new dampers. We're at 195k miles.

I work as a machinist and was strongly considering making a riser that would sit in the spring seat of the rear control arm to in effect, raise up the car in order to obtain proper alignment in the rear. It would fill the spring seat/well and re-create the well above the top of the control arm.

1. Does anyone see any (legitimate) repercussions from this idea?
2a. I live in Colorado Springs. Does anyone have a rear aluminum cast control arm off their car they'd be willing to let me borrow to measure?
2b. If no on 2a, does anyone have connections with local dealerships (like Bob Penkhus) where I could measure 1 they may have in inventory?

Thanks,
Matt

[Ozark Lee]

The PO on my old XC installed standard shocks and didn't change the springs. The rear bumper about hit the ground when passengers were in the back seats. When I drive behind it when it was loaded it was reminiscent of a Triumph Spitfire with all of the negative camber in the rear. Even with a riser shim the spring rate is never really going to be right but it will likely be an improvement.

In my case I snagged a set of Nivomats off of a AWD S70 at a pick and pull for $7.00 each. Unless they leak they never really go bad and the reason they do leak is if the dust cover boot gets torn up.

...Lee

[scot850]

If new are too expensive, why not try one of the used parts specialists like vandsautodismantlers near Sacramento, or Erie VoVo on East Coast, or even Chapman Motors on Vancouver Island in Canada and see if any of them have a good used set?

Neil.

[scot850]

Even if the boots are split, you can replace them. You can buy aluminum blocks to hold the shock shaft and unscrew the lower mount off the shaft. A 240 steering rack boot if I recall fits perfectly as a replacement. I think I or someone wrote a thread on that.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72387&p=381523&hili ... ot#p381523

Neil.

[ForestVolvo]

Gentlemen:
I appreciate your insight and feel I need to exhaust that avenue before going full on custom.

I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks again!
Matt

[ForestVolvo]

Even if the boots are split, you can replace them. You can buy aluminum blocks to hold the shock shaft and unscrew the lower mount off the shaft. A 240 steering rack boot if I recall fits perfectly as a replacement. I think I or someone wrote a thread on that.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72387&p=381523&hili ... ot#p381523

Neil.

Neil,
I picked up 2 Nivomats from a local yard at $100 for the pair. No leaks, but bellows/boots were tired. I'm having a bugger of a time getting the lower mounts off. I reached out to Kahl and asked him in a PM if there was anything he did to aid in removing the lower mount off the shaft. I haven't heard back. I did soak the lower mount/shaft connection in WD-40 over night and hitting the bolt bar with a dead blow to spin it off (yes, righty tighty, lefty loosey.)

Any ideas? I thought about heat, but there is a rubber bushing right there. I got a small bottle of Loc-Tite 263 (high strength permanent stuff) for the reassembly.

Thanks,
Matt

[scot850]

I used a set of motorcycle aluminum clamp blocks held in a bench vice to hold and not mark the shafts of the shock.

Don't now recall any issue with normal directions for removal or them being particularly difficult to remove other than being tight having been on there for a while. If you look at the thread picture carefully showing the removed bottom mount and look at the thread at the bottom of the shaft of the shock, it is a normal thread for removal, i.e., CCW to remove, CW to tighten.

You really need the shaft held very tightly and then a 'shock' may help to get it loosened initially. Don't use WD-40 as a penetrating oil for which it is mostly useless. Use something like PB blaster or Deep Creep by Seafoam instead.

Neil.

[ForestVolvo]

I used a set of motorcycle aluminum clamp blocks held in a bench vice to hold and not mark the shafts of the shock.

Don't now recall any issue with normal directions for removal or them being particularly difficult to remove other than being tight having been on there for a while. If you look at the thread picture carefully showing the removed bottom mount and look at the thread at the bottom of the shaft of the shock, it is a normal thread for removal, i.e., CCW to remove, CW to tighten.

You really need the shaft held very tightly and then a 'shock' may help to get it loosened initially. Don't use WD-40 as a penetrating oil for which it is mostly useless. Use something like PB blaster or Deep Creep by Seafoam instead.

Neil.

Great tips! Thanks!

[scot850]

Good luck!

Neil.