I have a 2005 V70 FWD with 239,xxx. I am getting a hum from the driver's side front that sounds to me like a wheel bearing on its way out.
I'm planning to do front brakes soon and thought I might tackle this depending on the complexity. What's involved doing the wheel bearing/ hub R and R?
2005 V70 Wheel Bearing Replacement?
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Georgeandkira
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No biggie. Just some disassembly.
Wheel off and center bolt out.
Remove the top nut of the sway bar link. This can be fun if the hex/torx counterhold is enlarged with rust.
Clear the ABS stuff.
Remove the caliper's 2 big bolts. Hang the caliper up. The steering lock bar will always clang on the floor. Pick it up.
Rotor off.
Break the CV joint free by 1/2" or so. Remove the tie rod nut and free.
Remove the strut's 2 bottom bolts noting which way the heads and nuts go (for reassembly).
Take some measurements here before bolt removal to preserve alignment.
Free the ball joint nut and free.
Pull the axle out of the bearing and remove the 4 bolts.
My bearing fell away without drama.
Buy a Volvo brand bearing or F.A.G. or SKF. I suppose Timken is a good name but don't go cheap
Wheel off and center bolt out.
Remove the top nut of the sway bar link. This can be fun if the hex/torx counterhold is enlarged with rust.
Clear the ABS stuff.
Remove the caliper's 2 big bolts. Hang the caliper up. The steering lock bar will always clang on the floor. Pick it up.
Rotor off.
Break the CV joint free by 1/2" or so. Remove the tie rod nut and free.
Remove the strut's 2 bottom bolts noting which way the heads and nuts go (for reassembly).
Take some measurements here before bolt removal to preserve alignment.
Free the ball joint nut and free.
Pull the axle out of the bearing and remove the 4 bolts.
My bearing fell away without drama.
Buy a Volvo brand bearing or F.A.G. or SKF. I suppose Timken is a good name but don't go cheap
- oragex
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My bearing experience was different as the bearing was so stuck in there, impossible to even hammer it out. Need a strong puller with three arms.
Don't forget to suspend the axle or remove it from the transmission, don't let it hang
But before removing a bearing, before removing it's 4 bolts, always turn it by hand and feel how rough it is. If it feels smooth with slight roughness at some points, it is still good.
Too many times the hum noise it's actually a tire.
Don't forget to suspend the axle or remove it from the transmission, don't let it hang
But before removing a bearing, before removing it's 4 bolts, always turn it by hand and feel how rough it is. If it feels smooth with slight roughness at some points, it is still good.
Too many times the hum noise it's actually a tire.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Ive done 3 now, two on P80s, one on my 2005 V70 NA (SNAP!)
Core dump.
On one of them I had to press the bearing off with a press - totally frozen
You can diagnose bearing over tire by swerving back and forth and hearing the hum come and go.
Once they start to make noise, they will drive another 10,000 miles N=3
I couldn't feel any difference in two of the bearings I replaced
I used the FAG OEM replacement - expensive but ....
The bolts of the replacement FAG were hex, OEM is a large Torx External
Don't forget the bearing seal which protects it from road crap.
You need a new axle Bolt (M10) - as it is a torque to yield fastener
I popped the axle shaft out of the transmission, then pulled the shaft from the hub. Keep those CVs aligned or you have to put them back together.
This time, it really ISNT your ECU..
Core dump.
On one of them I had to press the bearing off with a press - totally frozen
You can diagnose bearing over tire by swerving back and forth and hearing the hum come and go.
Once they start to make noise, they will drive another 10,000 miles N=3
I couldn't feel any difference in two of the bearings I replaced
I used the FAG OEM replacement - expensive but ....
The bolts of the replacement FAG were hex, OEM is a large Torx External
Don't forget the bearing seal which protects it from road crap.
You need a new axle Bolt (M10) - as it is a torque to yield fastener
I popped the axle shaft out of the transmission, then pulled the shaft from the hub. Keep those CVs aligned or you have to put them back together.
This time, it really ISNT your ECU..
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- dlundblad
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I guess Timkin is starting to source some of their bearings from cheaper suppliers.Georgeandkira wrote: ↑27 May 2018, 06:14 No biggie. Just some disassembly.
Wheel off and center bolt out.
Remove the top nut of the sway bar link. This can be fun if the hex/torx counterhold is enlarged with rust.
Clear the ABS stuff.
Remove the caliper's 2 big bolts. Hang the caliper up. The steering lock bar will always clang on the floor. Pick it up.
Rotor off.
Break the CV joint free by 1/2" or so. Remove the tie rod nut and free.
Remove the strut's 2 bottom bolts noting which way the heads and nuts go (for reassembly).
Take some measurements here before bolt removal to preserve alignment.
Free the ball joint nut and free.
Pull the axle out of the bearing and remove the 4 bolts.
My bearing fell away without drama.
Buy a Volvo brand bearing or F.A.G. or SKF. I suppose Timken is a good name but don't go cheap
If they aren't made in China, I'm sure they'd be great though. Someone order one and report back.
Hers: Charcoal 2002 S60 2.4t 187k
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volvooh
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I was able to replace the bearing, rotors and brakes this past weekend. After re-assembly I am getting what sounds like a rubbing sound while turning. The bearing noise is gone. I made sure the steering lock bar was replaced in the right direction.
When I replaced the bearing this is what I did:
Removed the brake caliper and caliper bracket.
Removed the center bolt
Removed the two big bolts on the bottom of the strut.
Removed the steering tie rod end
I did not remove the sway bar link. Because I had the whole front end of the car in the air I was able to articulate the strut out of the way and remove the spindle from the hub, and with the steering tie rod remove I was able to articulate the hub in different positions and remove the 4 bolts on the back.
Re-assembly was essentially the same.
I am no longer getting bearing noise on the highway, just noticing the "rub" at low speeds.
Did I leave any steps out?
When I replaced the bearing this is what I did:
Removed the brake caliper and caliper bracket.
Removed the center bolt
Removed the two big bolts on the bottom of the strut.
Removed the steering tie rod end
I did not remove the sway bar link. Because I had the whole front end of the car in the air I was able to articulate the strut out of the way and remove the spindle from the hub, and with the steering tie rod remove I was able to articulate the hub in different positions and remove the 4 bolts on the back.
Re-assembly was essentially the same.
I am no longer getting bearing noise on the highway, just noticing the "rub" at low speeds.
Did I leave any steps out?
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Probably a backing plate rubbing a bit , you Can bend it out of the way with hand pressure.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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Thats it..
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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