Re-Torque Head Bolts that were too loose?

Dmck · Post by **Dmck** » 29 Jun 2018, 01:45

So after doing research I have realized I did not torque my head bolts down correctly on an 95 850 turbo sedan.

I only did the final 130degree sequence (in three stages) and not the 15 and 44 ftlb sequences.

The only time I get burned coolant coming out of exhaust is when my radiator fan turns on. I'm guessing this means my coolant temp must need to get to boiling before it seeps into cylinders. The car has been driven around for a week.

There is no issue with coolant in my oil, or oil in my coolant, or pressure build up in my coolant tank, so I believe the rest of the head gasket is sealed and only the metal rings on the head gasket around the cylinders are compromised.

I know the proper thing is to just do complete head gasket redo, and possibly need to machine flatten the head again, but I want to gamble and try to re torque the bolts.

If you were as dumb as me and wanted to try to take the easy way out, would you:

A) just torque all head bolts down around 15 more degrees (or some other amount)

Or

B) loosen all head bolts and retorque them all to proper spec.

I understand neither of these are correct and I should just do full head gasket job. This is my personal vehicle, so me doing something stupid will only hurt me.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jun 2018, 04:15

Once you get to them, just use the correct sequence again, after loosening them in proper sequence.

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Jun 2018, 11:48

What abscate said, I would probably do the same.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 29 Jun 2018, 23:46

Consensus: loosen and re torque the bolts properly by the proper sequences. Do it sooner rather than later: fluid and hot exhaust gasses seeping past the gasket can etch the gasket or cause the layers of this multi-layer steel gasket to separate at which point you will have no other choice than to replace the gasket..again.
If after retorquing it doesn't want to seal then one or both of those conditions has already occurred.

Post by **j-dawg** » 30 Jun 2018, 18:40

Seems to me if you're already going in there you might as well replace the gasket. It'll be minimal extra work, and you'll know the gasket in there is good, whereas if you just retorque you have no idea what that thing's been through.

Post by **erikv11** » 30 Jun 2018, 20:36

The "no idea ...: statement is fair enough. However I would consider pulling the head to be much more work than just re-tightening the head bolts, the "already going in there" statement is not so relevant. Cleaning the surfaces to install a new HG is not a small job, there is puling the manifolds, the expense of a new HG and manifold gaskets, etc. Look at it this way, OP will be really good at the first part of head removal if tightening doesn't solve it.

Post by **FLXC90** » 02 Jul 2018, 03:57

I agree with the "while you're in there" point of view. If OP can get a helper to lift the head straight up and steady it, I doubt the cleanup would be much with so new a gasket. beats the expense of a third redo. With a helper they might be able to leave the intake on as a handle. After removing the brace bolt of course!