Next step? (Driver's Side brake lamp out)

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 13 Aug 2018, 05:58

OK, I just yesterday removed my upper half driver's side tail lamp section and replaced it with a used one from Ebay that was supposedly verified to be in working order. Got it all back together and the brake lamp still does not work. What is my next step here? Could it be a wiring issue? I am not good with electrical wiring and really hate thinking about going to the dealer.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 13 Aug 2018, 10:50

Check your brake lamp bulb. Is the bulb seated properly in the bulb holder? Is the bulb holder installed correctly. Make sure you use a quality bulb...I only use bulbs manufactured in Europe in the V70...nothing from Taiwan, Mexico or China.

Use your passenger brake lamp bulb (and holder) in the driver's side as a test.

Are other bulbs in the tail lamp section working?

A dealer is not needed to fix this problem.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 13 Aug 2018, 12:17

All I can share with you are my recent experiences with my blown out brake light during the deepest cold spell we had just last Winter.

My passenger side brake light went out and right off the bat the holder (the thing you twist to remove) wouldn't twist. It was scorched and partially melted. It came out when "I showed it who was boss". This commonly happens with mechanics but is unsettling because you never know if too much is too much until you break something.
I shaved uneven blobs of plastic away so flat surfaces would mate as designed. I also "deblackened" wherever I saw scorching.

In my case the bulb was blown so there was no mystery there.

Always use dielectric grease on auto bulbs to reduce resistance and heat. Use it on all bulbs' bases and contacts of the holder too.
The actual electrical contact is a rounded piece of metal which only touches the flat metal contact of the housing box (with the red plastic) at one point.

Even though the holder is keyed (has different sized lugs to assure only one way in) the lugs are not too differently sized so it's easy to imagine a slob mechanic forcing it into its hole and twisting it way too much. This is nothing short of a stupid design.

ALWAYS match-mark the holder and light housing with a Sharpie so you can see the orientation. Someone already had in my case.

I set a brick on my brake pedal and had to jiggle the holder to get the bulb to light. I jiggled it repeatedly in order to get it to seat completely. I finally resorted to "yarning" the holder to one side with rubber bands. It worked just fine for months. The funny thing was that just last week my "Brake Bulb Out" warning came up. I could see in a store window's reflection that it was my troubled side. It healed itself the next day. It's still working.

There were 4 bulbs which went out last Winter. One of the other three was the round globed bulb which is the top bulb of the lower section. This time the extended bulb holder was masked by a cross piece of metal left between two stamped holes. All the pictures simply showed a 6" long holder. No photo or drawing showed the body sheet metal in the way. In the case of this "position light" there was none offered except by Volvo and that's OK with me.

Years ago we all read about the necessity of matched bulbs (left to right) because of resistance monitoring. I measured every bulb in my stash and kept bulbs paired and never had a problem with "bulb out" warnings in any car.
If this brake light of mine ever goes out again I will go to Volvo (or elsewhere) for a pair of European made bulbs. Remember, there's nothing to stop any dealership from buying cheap 10-packs of cheap bulbs, overcharging you then gambling on you not coming back.

This is a great example of an item to buy from European parts sources like eEuroparts or FCP in Groton. You can reach "free shipping" thresholds with 'em.

Hope some of my prattle helps.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 13 Aug 2018, 14:29

That was quite a post G&k, but it gave me hope.
Thx "93SCMax" on the Euro bulb tip. Now just need to find a place to buy them. Not sure if FCPGroton or Eeuro parts sells european bulbs.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 13 Aug 2018, 15:03

Mr. Detail said, "Not sure if FCPGroton or Eeuro parts sells european bulbs."

Exactly. You have to ask 'em or look at the product. Osram bulbs are packaged under American names but I can't remember which or if that American name changes suppliers. The "euro-parts" suppliers have toll free numbers so I suggest calling them.
Bring a magnifying glass to the parts store so you can read the bulbs' bases.

BUT, overall, matched resistance side-to-side is your #1 consideration. You have bigger fish to fry. We all do.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 14 Aug 2018, 08:23

Just got this response for anyone interested from eEuroparts.com

"Hello! Thank you for contacting us! We sell Flosser bulbs for almost every application of need in a European car. These are German made quality parts."

Nick3501 · Post by **Nick3501** » 16 Aug 2018, 23:27

my v50 had passengers side park lamp (tail light) that had no power from the cem. had to jump from drivers side. a few months later same thing happened with front park lamp..no power from cem. not sure if p2 uses the same cem driven lights but that was my problem..

Post by **jimmy57** » 16 Aug 2018, 23:57

go to REM in side compartment on left in back. there are some black cards (shunts for bulb fail detection) that plug into the REM. Pull them one at a time and inspect for any obvious heating evidence or corrosion. make sure each one goes in securely and see if the brake light works. the circuit goes through one of those shunts.

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 17 Aug 2018, 09:32

What is a "CEM" and a "REM"? Not sure I understand what a "shunt" is either. Sorry.

Post by **jonesg** » 17 Aug 2018, 11:14

Mr. Detail wrote: 17 Aug 2018, 09:32 What is a "CEM" and a "REM"? Not sure I understand what a "shunt" is either. Sorry.

Volvo shunt.