How to test sway bar links?

dj_v70 · Post by **dj_v70** » 01 Oct 2018, 16:54

14 months ago, I had a lot of rattling going over bumps on front passenger side. I had to cut off sway bar link (original) as I couldn't get it off otherwise. I didn't see the post about using bicycle wrench back then. It turned out my issue was strut (spring seat). Well, autozone had cheap lifetime strut assembly and sway bar end links. I replaced both and my issue was gone.

6 months later, the rattle came back... then I waited another year because I didn't want to deal with that again:) Finally, over last weekend, I started poking around. I tried to move links while car was both on the ground and again with the front end in the air - all seemed very tight. Strut (turned castle nut and pulled at top of wheel) and everything else looked good also. Finally out of desparation I removed the newish sway bar link. Found the issue, the bottom link had 1/8" play to it. The sway bar was loading it and I couldn't feel the play in it.

Any insight on what I did wrong? I thought I read that links don't need to be removed to test them, I don't recall reading anything about lifting the sway bar to unload the links, of course, I could be having another senile moment:)

By the way, I got my 'free' replacement link from Autozone and the design was much different (seems better quality, of course, it only has to last 7 months to be better than the old one). They probably had other returns during this time period!

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 01 Oct 2018, 19:40

You didn't do anything wrong. You removed the sway bar link and found it to be loose.
The way to install / remove them is with both front wheels elevated and removed. This way the sway bar itself isn't twisting.
Had you installed them loosely they'd rattle loudly straight away.

Post by **oragex** » 02 Oct 2018, 01:38

May depend on the brand. Maybe those were a little longer putting the sway bar in slight tension. Keep an eye on it as cheap parts last 6mth-2years and that includes tthe new spring eeats. Better off buying from online sites like Fcp or Ipd brands like lemforder or sachs

dj_v70 · Post by **dj_v70** » 02 Oct 2018, 04:35

Thanks guys. The concept of having to remove them to test them sucks, isn't there an easier way? In hindsight, it seems that I could have unloaded them and tested them by raising/lowering sway bar while shaking them. I'd put my old ones back on to validate but I cut them off before returning them to autozone. Actually, my standard procedure is to cut them off to remove them.

I will put in a order from FCP now so that I'll be ready to replace them as soon as they start to fail next time! When they come in, I'll compare length against autozone ones. The newest autozone ones were loaded during installation (I forget whether it was tension or compression).

Drove the car this morning and noticed same corner is squeaking now:( Sheesh, I'll have to start poking around again this weekend, maybe bad strut assembly ...

Post by **abscate** » 02 Oct 2018, 05:07

FCP has lemforders for under $30. I can’t believe it makes sense to use cheap chinesiym parts on this ugly job when good parts are reasonably priced.

Lemforders get better longevity reviews than Meyle in this parts.

Abscate job tip....if you pack the hex with grease and then slip a vacuum cap from your Flaps over it, you can make removal a lot easier with an impact on the Torx and a hex to hold the nut. Set the impact to tighten, not loosen, to remove the nut.

Post by **Rattnalle** » 02 Oct 2018, 05:18

Removal is easy. Just cut it all off with the angle grinder

Post by **chrism** » 02 Oct 2018, 07:44

The way I test them is to disconnect the lower attach point and drive the car. If the rattle has now disappeared, you found the culprit.

dj_v70 · Post by **dj_v70** » 02 Oct 2018, 10:34

chrism wrote: ↑02 Oct 2018, 07:44 The way I test them is to disconnect the lower attach point and drive the car. If the rattle has now disappeared, you found the culprit.

The problem for me is that I always had a problem getting old ones off without destroying them, I always used Rattnelle's method:

Rattnalle wrote: ↑02 Oct 2018, 05:18 Removal is easy. Just cut it all off with the angle grinder

So, I am going to go back in there over the weekend and use Abscate's advance planning:

abscate wrote: ↑02 Oct 2018, 05:07 Abscate job tip....if you pack the hex with grease and then slip a vacuum cap from your Flaps over it, you can make removal a lot easier with an impact on the Torx and a hex to hold the nut. Set the impact to tighten, not loosen, to remove the nut.

Thanks to all!

Post by **oragex** » 02 Oct 2018, 11:01

Rattnalle wrote: ↑02 Oct 2018, 05:18 Removal is easy. Just cut it all off with the angle grinder

That's the right way to go on the lower nut on the original end link, before you torn your T30 socket

Then the next endlink should be easy to remove with the - now still alive - T30 socket. Is that a T30 anyway on the lower bolt? Anyhow, it's a size too small for how stuck that lower bolt gets.