Back in June the water leaked out of my C70 in Tucson AZ. I have extended warranty but the company is not responsive and basically dragging their feet. The Volvo dealer wants 1500.00 on top of the 1800.00 I am already out of to diagnose the issue and tow it back home in Houston. I don't mind paying for it but they can not guarantee they can diagnose exactly what happened. On top of that I don't think the warranty company will own up to their obligation anyways. I need to get my car fixed so I am going to fix it myself and sue the company.
I am looking for recommendations on a new or a used engine to purchased. I've looked on ebay and Google but I am not sure what or which is a reputable company to use.
I am a decent mechanic, I do know I blew a head gasket. If I pull the head out and I need to replace it thats ok. What do I need to look at the bottom end to see if I should replace the whole engine or just fix the head gasket issue.
Need some advice - C70 new or a used engine?
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jimmy57
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Where did the coolant leak from? Was it coolant tank? Thermostat housing?
The block inspection consists of checking the gap that looks like a 1/2 inch deep saw cut between each cylinder. The gap should be the same across. The other check is that the steel cylinder liner is not separated from the aluminum of the block surrounding it.
The head will warp under exhaust ports between head bolts and between head bolts on the partition between each cylinder. The lengthwise check is far less important than the short span checks between head bolts.
The block inspection consists of checking the gap that looks like a 1/2 inch deep saw cut between each cylinder. The gap should be the same across. The other check is that the steel cylinder liner is not separated from the aluminum of the block surrounding it.
The head will warp under exhaust ports between head bolts and between head bolts on the partition between each cylinder. The lengthwise check is far less important than the short span checks between head bolts.
- E Showell
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I have had good luck with used engines from Erie Vo-Vo.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
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Cees Klumper
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My advice would be to source a good used replacement engine, rather than new or getting jnto your existing one. You may be able to sell off some good parts of your old one. The PO of ours replaced the engine with a low-mileage used one (after the old engine, guess what, lost its coolant) and it's done very well. Just make sure you get it from a reputable source. Good luck with getting this resolved.
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buddyv
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jimmy57 wrote: ↑19 Oct 2018, 15:39 Where did the coolant leak from? Was it coolant tank? Thermostat housing?
The block inspection consists of checking the gap that looks like a 1/2 inch deep saw cut between each cylinder. The gap should be the same across. The other check is that the steel cylinder liner is not separated from the aluminum of the block surrounding it.
The head will warp under exhaust ports between head bolts and between head bolts on the partition between each cylinder. The lengthwise check is far less important than the short span checks between head bolts.
It looks like the coolant tank cracked which let the water out.
Now because the Volvo dealer cannot pressurize the system due to the head gasket blown. The warranty company wont fix it or authorize repair.
Warranty company told mechanic they might deny because I drove it hot. I told warranty company I was in Tuscon,AZ it was 110 I was on the freeway doing the speed limit when the light came on.
Mine did the same thing in August and I took the engine out and disassembled it. MY GOD! There was a hole through one of the pistons and a small gouge in the upper part of the cylinder wall. The mechanic/machinist that I took the engine to said that the gouge, (about 3mm diameter) was small enough and in just the right spot not to cause any issues. Higher than the oil ring, and low enough not to cause compression issues. Said it was worth a try. I agree. Even the used engines with 90k miles on them are around $2,000.00 This is my 7th overhaul, so I'm fairly confident that the mechanic was correct. The 7 are as follows; 1969 VW semi-automatic, 1974 Plymouth Duster, 1979 Bmw 320i, 1972 Ford Diesel tractor, 1972 Impala, 1964 Plymouth valiant convertible, and this.
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