[2001 V70 2.4T] Front left power window won't auto-close

[prwood]

The driver's side window in my car won't auto-close all the way. It gets up to several inches from the top, and then reverses itself back down all the way. If I pull all the way up on the switch and hold on to it, the window does go all the way to the top and stop. I have seen something on YouTube about a procedure to calibrate the power window, but in that case the issue was that the window did not go all the way up, so I'm not sure it's relevant.

I have included a link to a video (should be visible to all) I shot of my window glass and regulator arm in motion. First I demonstrate the incorrect auto-close behavior and at the end I show the behavior when I hold the switch up all the way.

Any ideas on how to correct this?

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... dLb2VZU3hB

[precopster]

Vida has a calibration technique built in to the software for this problem. The module may be DDM (driver door module) or PDM (passenger door module) depending on whether LHD or RHD.

Others here may know of a manual technique for calibration, especially JRL or Jimmy57.

[prwood]

Ah, excellent. I'll give VIDA a shot.

[oragex]

[prwood]

Yes, this was the video I had mentioned but I’m not sure how to apply it in my situation.

[prwood]

So it seems that all is not well with my window regulator.

The regulator ball joints popped out of the sliding blocks again this weekend when I rolled the window down. I still had a few extra blocks, so I popped them back in and bent the arms back into shape as best I could. I carefully rolled the window up and down a few times using both the manual and automatic functions.

When using the automatic function, I noticed that it still stopped as it got about 2/3 up, and then reversed direction.

When using the manual function, I noticed that at the point where the automatic function would stop, the window glass is actually slightly off track - on the tall side of the window, it's protruding outwards from the track. It appears that the glass is rising more vertically, where it should actually be sliding up a slightly inward angle. With a few more pushes of manual control, the glass is forced back into track and does go all the way up.

It seems apparent that the regulator arms are presently twisted in such a way that, while they are unobstructed when raising and lowering without the window glass, when connected to the glass they are holding it at an angle that is off just enough to it to go off track, and further raising the window causes added stress to the joint between the arm and the sliding block. Repeated use causes it to snap out of place, the window falls, the arms are bent further, and the cycle repeats.

I'm also wondering if the alignment issues could have anything to do with the fact that I used screws and nuts to hold the regulator in place when I replaced it last year, rather than blind rivets as from the factory. Is the whole unit not in the proper position or possibly being jostled out of position?

The cheapskate in me wants to experiment in an attempt to re-bend the arms into the right angle to make the glass go up correctly, but the skeptic thinks it's probably best to get a new regulator at this point to ensure that everything is aligned correctly. I've also noticed in a few places that the sliding tracks attached to the window are starting to get notches and divots at points where the joint has popped out.

Last year I pulled a regulator at the junkyard, but I'm not sure I'd trust that again. A new aftermarket regulator without the motor assembly is about $70 on RockAuto; I'm assuming I can just transfer the motor over from old to new.

Any opinions?

[chrism]

Did you do the recalibration procedure where you pull the fuse while window is going auto-up?

Also, The cheapskate in me bought some aftermarket blue slider gizmos from Amazon and although they appeared identical the hole that snaps onto the ball was WAY too tight. It would have caused big problems so I opened up the hole a bit with a rat tail file.

Unless the arms are really badly bent you should be able to straighten them out. Or grab some “new” ones at the wrecking yard.

[prwood]

Did you do the recalibration procedure where you pull the fuse while window is going auto-up?

I did try that, to no effect.

Also, The cheapskate in me bought some aftermarket blue slider gizmos from Amazon and although they appeared identical the hole that snaps onto the ball was WAY too tight. It would have caused big problems so I opened up the hole a bit with a rat tail file.

I've been using only Genuine Volvo sliders. Do you know if they can be used more than once if they don't appear visibly broken? Just wondering if it's the type of part (like a nylock nut) that is permanently deformed after the first use (i.e. when the ball pushes into the socket).

Unless the arms are really badly bent you should be able to straighten them out. Or grab some “new” ones at the wrecking yard.

I might give it another shot. I feel like at this point it will take some fairly fine tuning. My best bet might be to actually get it into the fully closed position and then bend the arms from below so that they can maintain that position without pulling back against the window.

[prwood]

Does anyone know if these window regulators are supposed to have a "lift assist" spring attached? I got a replacement regulator and the instructions say to check for this when removing the old unit.

[oragex]

I remember of another similar situation, the arm got bent perhaps from forcing on a broken slider - which breaks especially when the window is stuck in ice at winter time and it's forced to open (small trick for this www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke0dvms80Xw ). Same happens when the window goes out of calibration and doesn't stop at the top and it's forcing against the frame.

This is the P1 V70 but I'm pretty sure someone posted on some forum details about regulator replacement (and it doesn't seem an easy DIY) https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... cement.htm#