13 S60 T5 AWD engine swap

cdretc · Post by **cdretc** » 14 Dec 2018, 10:40

I blew an engine at 83K (timing belt slipped due to accessory belt shredding). I'm planning an engine swap. Can anybody please direct me to a how to? Is there anything else that I should replace at the same time? Donor engine is 2016 with 80K (50k miles). Any seals or anything that I must replace? I'm planning to pull tranny and engine at the same time and then separate on the bench.

Post by **jimmy57** » 14 Dec 2018, 13:30

There should be nothing needed on a 50K 2016 engine.
You are doing the right thing by taking the unit out the bottom together on the subframe to do the swap.
Disconnect strut tops, steering coupler at rack. Put a rope on a steering wheel spoke and to brake pedal so the steering wheel can't move out of that rotation. If the steering wheel goes one revolution either way it will not be synchronized for stability control and the contact reel could break.
Disconnect hoses. Unbolt the a/c compressor and tie it aside and nothing will have to be done to recharge it.
Pull cv axles to wheels. Disconnect the trans selector cable for transmission.
The wiring harness to ECM on air cleaner box can be unplugged by depressing latch and swinging handle over. If you follow the wiring harness closely you can see which side goes to engine and which one stays with car. I think the 58 pin one is the top and that stays with the car. The fuel hose can be disconnected with a cuff tool behind engine. The hard plastic line to canister purge valve can be disconnected from purge valve and tied aside. Starter cable, ground cable, and braided ground cable to firewall area. Disconnect transmission control module connector by the shifter cable area (trans module is under the shift cable). Push in on the red sleeve on the hard plastic brake booster vac line where it sticks into intake manifold. When you push in on that line and push the sleeve inward then the plastic line can be pulled out.
The subframe bolts are at the 4 corners of subframe.

The trans and engine will not come out the top unless you remove intake, exhaust manifold with turbo, alternator-a/c bracket, and maybe even the oil filter/breather box assembly. Then the trans will have to be unbolted from the mount and pulled to the left and tied there in order to give enough room for the flex plate(flywheel) to come out of the trans bell housing far enough to come out so engine could be lifted up.

cdretc · Post by **cdretc** » 14 Dec 2018, 15:56

Wow, thanks so much, Jimmy. That's awesome. How much time do you think it will take to remove? I have lots of experience with fixes but haven't removed an engine since I was 18...a long time ago. I use air tools and am fully equipped less a hoist. I do have a large floor joist that I plan to use. Will install be easier or harder?

Post by **jimmy57** » 14 Dec 2018, 22:13

You can use an engine hoist. Remove the subframe and leav the engine/trans on the front eng mount and rear trans mount. WHen subframe is out then you can let the engine down onto the ground or onto a stack of pallets and go back up with eng ine hoist and then let it onto ground. However many steps it takes.

Post by **oragex** » 08 Jan 2019, 04:38

These things are not that hard to do with a good engine hoist and the car lifted enough. It's not a matter of time, just take your time and go slowly and carefully - I would give myself a full week inside a garage to do it relaxed, but perhaps you will be finishing it in 2-3 days. Usually Volvo bolts undo easily and are for most part easy to access - unless things have changed since the P2 model, so you should not worry much about stuck or rotten bolts. Just careful with the stretch type ones, if you reuse them you should not torque them down with the original torque - better to replace the most important ones

cdretc · Post by **cdretc** » 08 Jan 2019, 06:04

Which ones are stretch type? How could I tell?

Post by **oragex** » 08 Jan 2019, 06:45

When you see 'stage 2 xx degrees' it's a torque bolt http://www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-v60 ... s-2010-on/

cdretc · Post by **cdretc** » 19 Jan 2019, 16:22

So, I just finished the engine replacement and was all psyched to start...and nothing. I have a bunch of error codes, including immobilizer and perhaps the most important "shift to P". The car is in P. What gives? Anybody?

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Jan 2019, 20:12

Did you keep the ECM from your car and use it on the new engine? The connections on the ECM may not be latched. The transmission control module is on top of trans under the shift cable lever. It has a connector. IS that unplugged?

cdretc · Post by **cdretc** » 19 Jan 2019, 20:18

Thanks for the suggestions. Just checked. Tranny ECU is plugged. Reused ECM from old engine on new engine. Reseated ECM, no bent pins...same issues. Any other ideas?