Replaced starter, now it cranks but doesnt start. HELP!!!

Post by **KC95Turbo** » 07 Nov 2006, 00:09

I just got done replacing my starter with an aftermark NSA starter and put everything back together. When I try to start it now it just cranks over and over but doesnt start. It cranks over great but that is all it does, I don't hear a sputter or anything. It ran fine right before I replaced the starter. I ran into a few problems with the new starter not being the right length so I had to put washers on the thing where the bracket connects to it to get it to line up with the hole on the engine block. Besides that, everything reconnected without a problem. I double checked that all of the relays on the fan were connected and also that all of the wires on the starter were connected. I also checked all of the vacuum lines too and those all looked connected.
Could someone please answer any of these questions you know the answer to, thanks so much.

1. What could I have done to cause it not to start now?? it cranks over great but just wont run.
2. Does anyone know if the fuel pump or ignition system gets power or ground from the starter? maybe I needed to clean the contacts on the bracket better or something if thats the case...
3. would any of those relays on the fan shroud cause it to crank but not start?
4. if by chance I knocked a wire loose on either the knock sensor or TPS sensor etc... would that cause this sympton??
5. if It was a vacuum line that was disconnected, would it cause it not to start?
6. by having the battery disconnected for so long, could that have caused it to not be able to start?
7. can I run engine codes on it and get results if it never started yet since reconnecting the battery?

Again thanks for any help, I would appreciate it much. It got too late and I got too tired for me to do anything else tonight... so im hoping someone will give me some good ideas so that I can try them out tomorrow.

95autoturbo · Post by **95autoturbo** » 07 Nov 2006, 09:55

Have you pushed in all your wires again,

turn the key to the on position but do not turn it over, leave it on for 20 seconds (do this twice)

now the third time do it again with out turning it over, (leave it) and disconnect the positive battery terminal

after a couple of minutes replug in the terminal and then give a start

I once heard this will help to "relearn"

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 07 Nov 2006, 19:37

Two main things for an engine to run, Fuel and Ignition.
I would first press the schrader valve at the end of the fuel rail to see if there is pressure in the fuel rail. Also take a spark plug out and see if it has gas on it. If it does, your engine could be flooded .Try new plugs
Next I would check for spark . Also make sure your ignition wire is plugged in tight into the ignition coil(next to the air filter box)
Make sure nothing unplugged when you put the starter in also

Post by **pfeener** » 07 Nov 2006, 20:40

OK, here's some answers:

First off; if it were me I would replace that starter. Having to shim it out is not a good thing. It's not keeping your engine from starting, but it could wear your ring gear over time if it's not lining up correctly. I think your problem is a wire that you have knocked off while installing the starter. I would check the wires on the sensors, especially the cam sensor.

Answers to your questions:
1. answered above
2.not that I know of
3.not that I know of
4. yes
5. no
6. no
7. not that I know of

I would do as someone stated above. Remove a plug and lay it against the metal valve cover and have someone turn over the engine to check for spark. Push on the valve on the end of the fuel rail to see if you have fuel pressure. That won't necessarily tell you where the problem is, but it will help isolate it.

Post by **KC95Turbo** » 08 Nov 2006, 10:08

I FOUND THE PROBLEM! It turns out that my fuel pump was not kicking on as I thought, so I checked the fuel pump fuse and it was fine. I then checked to make sure all of the connections were pushed in all the way on all of the relays and they were fine. Checked all of the connections on the motor and they were fine. So I looked up some wiring diagrams to see what could cause the fuel pump to not kick on and found that there is a Main relay under the fan shroud that controls fuel system. I went back under the hood and decided to slide the whole relay out of the shroud and double check all of the wires, well when I did this I found that the orange/black wire had broken off of its connector! I took the old connector off and crimped a new one on. After I did that it started right up! So, if anyone is moving those relays around on the fan shroud and your car wont start, check those wires because they seemed to get very brittle with age. Here is a pic of the broken wire and the wiring diagram of that relay.

Post by **KC95Turbo** » 08 Nov 2006, 10:25

Ok now that I got my car running again, there is another weird problem. Now the check engine light is on, it wasnt on before I replaced the starter. But see the problem is that when I check the engine codes on the diagnostics control I keep getting a 1-1-1 for everything passed. Everytime I start the car now the check engine light goes on but I always get 1-1-1 when I check them. Has anyone else ever run into this??

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 08 Nov 2006, 12:55

Did you only try the codes in one of the testing connectors, I know that you use A testing box and put the wire in #2 for either fuel or emissions, I forget which is which and then you do the same in #6. You may have only been checking one of them. After you pull all the codes then you have to clear the engine light on. I forget off the top off my head how to clear it but I am sure someone else can help you. If you don't get an answer I'll look it up tonight in my book and let you know

Post by **KC95Turbo** » 08 Nov 2006, 15:57

i only tried to read codes from the A2 port.. I thought those were the only ones that triggered the Check engine light. After some more reading though I found out that the TCM could make the check engine light turn on as well so I will check those codes tonight. According the the volvo manual I just put the fly wire in socket A1 instead of A2 to read the TCM codes. I'll let everyone know what I find out in a little bit....

bobsnow100 · Post by **bobsnow100** » 09 Nov 2006, 06:14

I know in mine that I pull codes from A 6 also. After it goes through listing all the codes you then have to erase the codes to clear the engine light.