Cleaned ETM and now my 1999 S70 won't start

finestlittlemexican · Post by **finestlittlemexican** » 16 Jan 2019, 22:03

My idle was starting to act up and I decided to clean the ETM on my 1999 S70 Turbo. It was my first time to clean the ETM. I took out the fan, disconnected hoses and electrical connectors as the videos I watched demonstrated. I've got electricity from the battery as my lights and everything electronically works.
Here are a couple of things that weren't odd to me, but I'm not sure it this is normal or not.

- When I took the ETM out to clean, I sprayed a good amount of of Throttle body cleaner and scrubbed it with a toothbrush
- I tried to take the ETM sensor out by taking the 2 torq screws out, but couldn't disconnect it. when I screwed them back in...I might have cracked a part near the torq hole
- I accidently unplugged a coolant hose and it leaked over the left side which got on several plugs
- while cleaning the ETM, I noticed the metal flap that opens and closes to let air and gas in, would reset to another position after i opened it. Not sure if that was normal, but seemed odd. another words, i would open it to clean, try to close it at the close position, but it would click to a tilted position within 1 second.
- I noticed a small, shorter (6-8 inches) hose that was spilt and very brittle. The hose went into the top of the engine with a little connecter and then into a 3 point hose to the right of the engine.

1999 S70 Turbo
182K miles

Thank you for any help. I want to keep this car going.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jan 2019, 05:13

That hose is the purge valve connection, just replace it with fuel hose of the right diameter and clamp the ends. You need both check valves on these hoses. I did a write up with pictures in a thread about a cold idle problem in case you need a diagram but it's pretty simple.

The throttle body does not come apart easily, if you undo the wrong side you damage the electrical connections

Quick test. Hood up, key off. Reach in andturn key to on. You should hear an 8 second whine followed by a loud click if the ETM is self testing correctly. If it doesn't do this, you've got software or hardware problems

finestlittlemexican · Post by **finestlittlemexican** » 17 Jan 2019, 06:18

What if the hoses on the fuel valve connection wont come off easily. What's a good way to remove them.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jan 2019, 12:52

You need a “fuel hose removal tool”

I really didn’t make that up. You can make one from a BIC pen or buy at a FLAPS (local auto store)

finestlittlemexican · Post by **finestlittlemexican** » 17 Jan 2019, 15:54

abscate wrote: ↑17 Jan 2019, 05:13 That hose is the purge valve connection, just replace it with fuel hose of the right diameter and clamp the ends. You need both check valves on these hoses. I did a write up with pictures in a thread about a cold idle problem in case you need a diagram but it's pretty simple.

The throttle body does not come apart easily, if you undo the wrong side you damage the electrical connections

Quick test. Hood up, key off. Reach in andturn key to on. You should hear an 8 second whine followed by a loud click if the ETM is self testing correctly. If it doesn't do this, you've got software or hardware problems

did the quick test and I heard a beeping and then a whirling sound near the engine. I wonder if I tripped the immobilizer some how.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jan 2019, 16:41

It’s an 8 second whine and then a sharp clack. Whine stops

If you dont get that, start looking for a new ETM

finestlittlemexican · Post by **finestlittlemexican** » 17 Jan 2019, 16:47

I checked the MAF sensor area, cleaned out the air filter compartment that held the box. wiggled a couple of connection plugs that I took out yesterday. Then it started!!!

Then I checked my purge valve connection hose and tried to get it off to see the size and ripped another hole it. The hose that connects to the back near the driver side was disconnected too.

The car wouldn't start again after that.

So I repeated all my steps again to see if that helped and I noticed that a hose (with a red stripe on it) near the MAF was split because it was stuck in the Air filter compartment. This hose goes to a nipple as the same as the purge valve connection hose mentioned above that was disconnected.

I think I just need to get some new hoses and refit them. But I don't know the sizes

finestlittlemexican · Post by **finestlittlemexican** » 17 Jan 2019, 16:57

abscate wrote: ↑17 Jan 2019, 16:41 It’s an 8 second whine and then a sharp clack. Whine stops

If you dont get that, start looking for a new ETM

I definitely get the a long beep and the whine and a sharp clack with the whining stopping. so the ETM should be good.

Post by **precopster** » 17 Jan 2019, 18:58

If you undo ANY side of the throttles' torx screws you can damage the electricals.

Both sensors have spot welded terminals. Fortunately you can re-solder them if you remove the rear cover and grind away the green or black putty to expose them.

If you have no flap movement upon applying ignition in PosII you may have damaged the flap motor's terminals. In this case just remove the bulbous terminal cover and re-solder them.

Looks like you need some good exploded diagrams of the hose arrangement

Post by **j-dawg** » 18 Jan 2019, 01:30

How specifically does it "not start"? Does it crank and not fire, or does it not even crank?