2004 S60 2.5TAWD spark plugs

StickyPocket · Post by **StickyPocket** » 03 Apr 2019, 20:57

I'm at about 65k miles, and am overdue for the first spark plug replacement. I'm a beginner for car repair stuff - have only personally done air filters and some fluids. Currently have the following in my cart at fcp:

What tools are required / recommended for this? I know I need torx bits for the plastic covers and the front of the charge pipe. What size sockets do I need for the rest of the charge pipe, coil bolts, and spark plugs themselves? Do I really need a torque wrench or can I just tighten to snug and then a quarter turn more? Should I use the dielectric grease and anti seize compound? Getting differing opinions online.

Thanks in advance.

Post by **matthew1** » 03 Apr 2019, 22:08

Hi Sticky. This spark plug change DIY covers your questions. Anti-seize and dielectric: yes, they can't hurt and can help.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 03 Apr 2019, 22:31

matthew1 wrote: ↑03 Apr 2019, 22:08 Hi Sticky. This spark plug change DIY covers your questions. Anti-seize and dielectric: yes, they can't hurt and can help.

You might change step 7

From:
Spark Plug Change Step 7

Install the new plug. Hand tighten it a “sufficient” amount.

To:
Spark Plug Change Step 7

Install the new plug. Hand tighten it until you feel the Crush Washer collapse, then stop.

Post by **matthew1** » 03 Apr 2019, 23:26

^ good point. Added, that and more.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 04 Apr 2019, 00:25

matthew1 wrote: ↑03 Apr 2019, 23:26 ^ good point. Added, that and more.

I place the Spark Plug in a Spark Plug Socket, attach an Extension, no Ratchet. Then turn the spark plug with two fingers. Two fingers without a lever cannot produce enough torque to cross thread. Also one can feel if the threads are mating or fighting.

When the spark plug is all the way in, attach a Ratchet. Hold the Extension with one hand. With the other hand pull on the end of the ratchet using the muscles of two to three fingers only, Do not use the arm muscles to pull the Ratchet . When the Crush Washer collapses the end of the ratchet will jump slightly and you will feel it go with your finger tips, STOP.

If you cannot crush the Crush Washer with the muscles of two to three fingers only, use a longer Ratchet.
This is my Stanley Extendable Ratchet comes in handy.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Apr 2019, 02:59

I’ll bet you can Get Marco to give you 15 minutes oversight on this job, he is in Queens.

TheWifes_S70 on the P80 forum is his handle

Lowe’s ( Woodmere near JFK) Kobalt brand are decent medium duty tools for this job

You want a sparkplug socket with the rubber insert in its own that the plug lifts out of the hole. As soon as the plug is out, put the coil back in the hole to stop from dropping stuff in.

10mm socket (M6) bolts on the coils
T27 ? For the cylinder head cover, get a set of these of course

A little magnetic cup works wonders for not loosing stuff under hood

XC70Rider · Post by **XC70Rider** » 04 Apr 2019, 06:29

I also remove the top engine mount cross bar for easier access. The two bolts on each side of the bar need a 14mm socket. The long bolt sliding through the engine mount requires a closed 18mm and 19mm wrench.

StickyPocket · Post by **StickyPocket** » 04 Apr 2019, 09:32

Thanks everyone! I'm gonna get a ratchet set with spark plug socket, and torx set and order what's in my cart. Will report back if i have any problems.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 04 Apr 2019, 09:52

StickyPocket wrote: ↑04 Apr 2019, 09:32 I'm gonna get a ratchet set with spark plug socket,

Get Triple chrome plating the extra cost is worth it.
The other stuff does not fit correctly, you end up rounding bolt heads and nuts more often.

EngineeringBloke · Post by **EngineeringBloke** » 04 Apr 2019, 10:29

1. You can take a picture of the wires and coil packs on your phone to aid in putting them back correctly (right after you remove the engine cover), or just do one at a time.

2. On avoiding cross-threading the plugs when installing them, I agree with RickHaleParker on twisting the extension without a racket, but here is hint that I find very useful.

Before starting to tighten the plug with just your fingers clockwise, turn the extension counterclockwise to loosen the plug. Feel for the plug to rise up just a little, and then when it drops, the plug thread end is at the plug hole thread start!

At that point, turn the plug clockwise gently, holding the extension very loosely between two fingers and watch that the extension is close to the center of the plug hole.

I have always felt this reduced the likelihood of cross threading.

3. As noted in the comments on the DIY linked above, watch how you replace the wiring to the coil packs to ensure they are not crimped by the engine cover, when the cover is replaced. Signs of this having happened include broken wire covering plastic. You should not hear any sound of the wires being touched when the cover is replaced.

Edit: Adding: The risk to the wires is that if they are too far from the coil packs, the edge of the engine cover can come down on them. The wires have position memory and so should go back in place, but if misrouted or pulled they can be damaged.