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Air Coming from Vents After Car Turned Off

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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DianaPrince
Posts: 13
Joined: 25 March 2018
Year and Model: 2006 S60
Location: Missouri

Air Coming from Vents After Car Turned Off

Post by DianaPrince »

Long question :-| 2006 S60 2.5T

Got home from work today and went to turn my car off. Like everyday (out of habit) I turn the a/c and fan off, turn the radio off, then turn the car off and take out the key. Today, though, after I removed the key there was still air coming out of the vents; I could hear the fan running. I thought maybe the toggle for the fan speed was stuck so I started the car again, and tried to turn the knob. The fan speed stayed the same no matter which way I toggled it. I turned the car off again and took out the key—air still coming from vents! I thought maybe a fuse for the blower motor was bad, but checked it and it was fine. The only way to stop the air from flowing and keep the blower from running was to keep the fuse unplugged. I’m worried if I leave the fuse plugged in, the blower motor will keep running and drain my battery. Any ideas why this is happening??? Thought it was the evaporator function but it lasted for more than 7m. Help!
Volvo cars I’ve owned:
1990 240 DL
2000 S70 GLT
2006 S60 2.5T

tardcart
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Post by tardcart »

Im not familiar with whether the fan is computer controlled on your year. but on the earlier cars that would indicate an ignition switch problem (still in position 1). See if the radio and whippers also work with key off.

DianaPrince
Posts: 13
Joined: 25 March 2018
Year and Model: 2006 S60
Location: Missouri

Post by DianaPrince »

Radio and wipers do not work with key off.
Volvo cars I’ve owned:
1990 240 DL
2000 S70 GLT
2006 S60 2.5T

tardcart
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Post by tardcart »

nix the above, your car has evap. coil drying feature that will run the fan until it's happy.

DianaPrince
Posts: 13
Joined: 25 March 2018
Year and Model: 2006 S60
Location: Missouri

Post by DianaPrince »

I heard about that. But when I timed it to see how long it would run, it went over 10m. I pulled the fuse because I didn’t want to drain the battery. :-(
Volvo cars I’ve owned:
1990 240 DL
2000 S70 GLT
2006 S60 2.5T

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Rattnalle
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Post by Rattnalle »

tardcart wrote: 13 May 2019, 18:52 nix the above, your car has evap. coil drying feature that will run the fan until it's happy.
That one waits a bit for the evap to warm up again then blasts some air through. It doesn't go low speed for ten minutes. Uses too much battery.

But also yes everything in the car is computer controlled. The position of any controls when you turn the car off is irrelevant once the car is off. You get fan running at I with manual fan speed set but only at II on auto, that's it.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The after-run is about 10 minutes, so unless it is running for hours, I would not worry about it. Since these cars use PWM and not resistor packs, the current draw on the fan at low speed is probably pretty low.

They could be metric minutes, or perhaps climate change has stretched time again, too.

Your ECC controls are all disabled for this mode - the car has taken over and hopefully does not become self aware like elephants, crows, and a certain Russian Blue Cat I have.

Do you rent out your Lasso of Truth? We need it here on occasion,
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DianaPrince
Posts: 13
Joined: 25 March 2018
Year and Model: 2006 S60
Location: Missouri

Post by DianaPrince »

So how can I tell if it’s just the evap system or something else? I read in another thread on here somewhere that the evap system only kicks on 50m after car is shut off, and runs for about 7m.

I bought a new blower motor resistor just in case. I’m hoping I don’t have to install that because it seems like ...a lot of fun.

Got to work today after running a/c on the drive in, and didn’t have any issues when I turned the car off. Not sure if it’s a fluke or if the conditions weren’t right for the evap system to kick on.
Volvo cars I’ve owned:
1990 240 DL
2000 S70 GLT
2006 S60 2.5T

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

DianaPrince wrote: 14 May 2019, 07:08 So how can I tell if it’s just the evap system or something else? I read in another thread on here somewhere that the evap system only kicks on 50m after car is shut off, and runs for about 7m.

I bought a new blower motor resistor just in case. I’m hoping I don’t have to install that because it seems like ...a lot of fun.

Got to work today after running a/c on the drive in, and didn’t have any issues when I turned the car off. Not sure if it’s a fluke or if the conditions weren’t right for the evap system to kick on.
I can tell you my 1999 sometimes after-runs the climate fan (not evap system, thats something else!) on key off, and sometimes an hour later. There is obviously some code with multiple inputs that determine when it runs.

I know Im an optimist at heart, but you can overthink these things, Electronics are really reliable, and usually trouble is proportional to how much we 'fix' them.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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oragex
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Post by oragex »

Try to monitor they days when it keeps running and the days when it shuts off with the engine. Could there be a difference in the outdoor temp that makes the computer think on some days the evaporator needs dried off more? I would guess the cooler days would need the fan to stay on because the cooler temp won't help dry off the evaporator fins. My experience is I got that mushy smell from the AC after running it in cooler days (my car doesn't have the setting to run the cabin blower to dry the evaporator).

As for the car battery, if it's in good condition, worry not about the cabin blower running for 10 min, it won't discharge the battery. Only a weak battery will suffer from this

If you go the resistor route, here's a fun trick: you can actually undo the underdash black cover, then undo the cover under the blower, and access the electrical connector to the resistor. Without removing the blower, undo this connector and plug it in the replacement resistor - let the resistor hang in the air. This way you can test see if the original resistor has an issue, without actually removing the blower.

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