Air Conditioning Issues 02 V70XC

nyurch · Post by **nyurch** » 28 May 2019, 10:18

I seem to be having air conditioning issues that are very frustrating. First it started that the air conditioning would only work while driving and not work when the car was idling. Now a few months later it seems to be the complete opposite, cold air on idle and warm air once moving. When I hooked up a gauge yesterday to see if it needed to be 'topped off' the gauge read right between 30 and 40 and in the green and I did not want to add more in case of over charging. You can hear the ac clutch engage when I turn on the AC so I don't believe that is my issue (although it may be!). New cabin filter installed a few months ago after this problem initially reared it's ugly head.

Also a new symptom is, my battery dies when I use the air conditioning. If I drive with the air conditioning on, shut the car off for the night, the next morning the battery is dead (Although if it is only an hour later the car will start right up). If I do not use the air conditioning at, all the battery is fine, the battery is tested fine and is less than a year old.

If you have any ideas or troubleshooting tips, send them my way! Thanks!

Post by **oragex** » 28 May 2019, 10:52

These appear to be less common issues
A few checks
- hot day & idling, start the A/C and see if the radiator fan in front starts spinning
- blow or suck some air (vacuum cleaner) but no physical touch, at the small grid near the right temp knob
- run the A/C at idle at look at the clutch plate - how long does it spin, and how long does it stop, in a cycle
- do the A/C lines near the engine look like frozen up ?
- when driving, if the A/C stops blowing cold air, park and look at the clutch plate, doesn't it cycle or stays stopped ?

As for the battery drain, just a guess, maybe there is a relay stuck, the one for the clutch plate engagement. Look with the engine cold & off, at the small wire at the compressor, the wire for the clutch, maybe pull the connector gently and look for corrosion

nyurch · Post by **nyurch** » 28 May 2019, 11:17

Thanks, I'll check these all and get back to you. I appreciate your help and time!!

nyurch · Post by **nyurch** » 15 Jun 2019, 15:58

Clutch is engaging but disengages and then will reengage after a short time with the ac off. When idling the clutch will engage and disengage for a few seconds kick right back on. Just had the system drained and recharged, I had 12 ounces and it was recharged to 32. I'm also noticing I'm not getting water under the car when the ac is on which I normally always did. My air filter is pretty bad I'm going to replace that tomorrow and my cabin filter was just replaced and that was no help. The battery drain is coming from the ecm cooling fan, which only runs when I use the air conditioner. I do not see any frozen lines and the radiator fan kicks on. Where is the right temp knob?

MDK · Post by **MDK** » 15 Jun 2019, 19:09

Seems to me that after all the responses I've read... and great advise from Oragex... the clutch assembly/ compressor are pulling too many amps. The compressor and clutch are one single unit and to the best of my knowledge are not separable. You need a new compressor... contrary to popular belief... Volvo's do not last forever... the old ones...60's 70's 80's did because of a good and simple sturdy design. Not these.. past 1999. ...Nightmares on 4 wheels. And please,feel free to rebuke me.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jun 2019, 04:05

Pressure readings are a poor way to assess charge. Leak test your ac to make sure you aren’t just blowing Freon into the universe. Bad for all of us.

I don’t think you can buy an AC clutch separate from the compressor on a P2 , but it certainly is replaceable without breaking the AC charge. Junkyard of course is one source, but someone makes that clutch assembly for Behr, Valeo , or Sanden

nyurch · Post by **nyurch** » 16 Jun 2019, 09:15

I'm leaning towards replacing the whole compressor, I have 188k and the problems just keep coming. I'm going to just pull one from harry's next weekend..

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jun 2019, 10:28

Quick sellable things for P2

Coils
Pem ... pump electronic module
Fuel pressure sensor
Brake servo ejector and switch. Black plastic thing on brake line with three hoses attached

If y-u save the old compressor I will do a write up on taking the clutch off and sourcing it new standalone

Post by **oragex** » 16 Jun 2019, 10:35

Try also pulling a used evaporator sensor, get one from more recent car with the black tip (yours would be blue tip) this one www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1vIWTG9-Zw

This is the small grid worth blowing some air to it (this sensor can fail when we reconnect the battery without the key in POS II) www.youtube.com/watch?v=riC13zbjdgg

I've heard of an instance where the compressor clutch would remain engaged (clutch plate would not disengage) when the car is parked - this can drain a battery overnight. Perhaps try see before parking the car, turn the AC off, and let the engine idle a little and look see if the clutch plate stays at rest or continues turning.

Also, after using the AC, listen if the cabin blower keeps spinning after the engine shuts off, on some cars this guy can keep spinning for about 10 min to dry the evaporator, but sometimes it may stay for too long and drain the battery.

Maybe post a close-up picture showing the gap of the clutch plate when it's not spinning

nyurch · Post by **nyurch** » 16 Jun 2019, 11:50

I'm sitting in my car and reading the replies, look down at that grid and holy hell, it is bad. Going to take apart and clean and let you know how that goes.