Possible to replace LCA bushings while on car?

nelaco · Post by **nelaco** » 14 Dec 2019, 02:44

I'll be replacing both LCA bushings with OEM ones. Ball joints are fine. Is it possible to just remove the axle nut so the axle stays in place while I just drop the LCA to press the old bushings out and install new ones? Thank you for your help.

Post by **oragex** » 14 Dec 2019, 04:24

I think you mean "while the axle is still on the car" in the title ? Yes, I think the axle can stay there. Only, after removing the axle bolt, push back the axle inside the hub to be sure it moves easily - and keep checking it slides back as needed so as not to stretch the CV joint. Sometimes the axle gets stuck solid inside the hub and there's no way to unstuck it. That would be the first thing to check before starting the job.

I recommend buying new front control arm bolts from Volvo (not expensive) and try to replace them if you can jack the transmission high enough (but rather not force on it too much). These are two/arm and will differ in size on each side so mark each one where it goes. To remove them a bit tricky, despite lifting the engine/transmission, you may not be able to use a 1/2" drive ratchet, so a solid 3/8" drive ratchet is needed and perhaps also some wrenches

As you perhaps already know, placing back a control arm with new bushings it's going to be very difficult when placing the ball joint back into the arm hole. That's because the genuine bushings are extremely stiff when new, and you'll need to pull down the control arm a lot in order to pass the 2-3" long stud from the ball joint. Some used heavy duty straps/ratchet attached to a jack stand placed under the weight of the subframe, to pull down the control arm. This would be the quickest way

nelaco · Post by **nelaco** » 14 Dec 2019, 07:02

Oragex, thank you for the detailed explanation but I didn't mean the axle. I meant leaving the LCA attached to the ball joint, then remove the 3 bolts (I already got new ones) that attach the LCA to the chassis, then lowering them and use a tool to remove and re-install the bushes while the LCA is still attached to the bolt joint. I've done it before but with a Honda.
FYI, this is a 2.5 2005...would I still have to jack the eng/transmission to remove the bolts?
Thanks again!

Post by **cn90** » 14 Dec 2019, 07:56

- The force required to remove/install the bushing is tremendous, requiring a shop press with ? 15-ton or ? 20-ton force or something like that.

- I just did the front overhaul on my 2005 XC90 (info in forum), it is much much easier with new control arm.
Volvo LCA is about $160.
Meyle LCA about $95.
I bought the Meyle and so far so good.

PS: Don't waste your time with bushing, get a new LCA bc soon or later the ball joint goes anyway. Get Lemforder ball joints.

nelaco · Post by **nelaco** » 14 Dec 2019, 08:57

Ok, good to know. I'll pull the LCAs then. Thank you cn90.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 Dec 2019, 09:02

oragex wrote: ↑14 Dec 2019, 04:24 Sometimes the axle gets stuck solid inside the hub and there's no way to unstuck it.

Some of them are glued to quite the clicking noise cause by the slack between the axle and the hub. Heating the junction will soften the glue and enable one to separate the hub from the axel. Unless somebody used permanent Loctite (Red).

wanderdüne · Post by **wanderdüne** » 14 Dec 2019, 09:25

You could take out the whole arm, ball joint included; but now way no how would you be able to reinstall the ball joint if it's in the arm. You can separate the ball joint from the arm with a Baum V7062 or similar or sometimes you can tap the arm off the ball joint after removing the bottom nut. If the ball joint is removed; it has to be driven back into the knuckle, then it is held in position with the two screws. End of the day; it's better to just replace the ball joint with lemforder or volvo while you're in there. You can have the bushings pressed in at a shop or buy complete arms from Volvo, iPd HD or Meyle HD. Likely you would not be able to press them in yourself as noted above.

Here is my ball joint thread from when I was having trouble connecting up the ball joint when installing the new arms. I think the contributors put together the best DIY procedure I have seen. Note that the Volvo dealer uses an enormous C-clamp to compress the strut for this operation. Take the advice posted in post #2 and the process detailed with pictures in post #20 for re-installation. you will need new bolts/screws for the axles (because you need some play there for installing the arm to the ball joint) they are torque to yield, and that is no joke; you can feel them stretch. Also a good time to replace the sway bar end links.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... -need-help

*before the struts are detached, be sure to measure with calipers from the back of the strut tube to the front of the knuckle; that is the camber measurement. it is also advisable to replace those nuts and bolts as well.

nelaco · Post by **nelaco** » 14 Dec 2019, 11:27

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑14 Dec 2019, 09:02
oragex wrote: ↑14 Dec 2019, 04:24 Sometimes the axle gets stuck solid inside the hub and there's no way to unstuck it.
Some of them are glued to quite the clicking noise cause by the slack between the axle and the hub. Heating the junction will soften the glue and enable one to separate the hub from the axel. Unless somebody used permanent Loctite (Red).

Ok, thank you Rick, I'll keep this in mind. I've owned it since new and the axles have never come off yet. Good to know it might just be glue.

nelaco · Post by **nelaco** » 14 Dec 2019, 11:31

wanderdüne wrote: ↑14 Dec 2019, 09:25 You could take out the whole arm, ball joint included; but now way no how would you be able to reinstall the ball joint if it's in the arm. You can separate the ball joint from the arm with a Baum V7062 or similar or sometimes you can tap the arm off the ball joint after removing the bottom nut. If the ball joint is removed; it has to be driven back into the knuckle, then it is held in position with the two screws. End of the day; it's better to just replace the ball joint with lemforder or volvo while you're in there. You can have the bushings pressed in at a shop or buy complete arms from Volvo, iPd HD or Meyle HD. Likely you would not be able to press them in yourself as noted above.

Here is my ball joint thread from when I was having trouble connecting up the ball joint when installing the new arms. I think the contributors put together the best DIY procedure I have seen. Note that the Volvo dealer uses an enormous C-clamp to compress the strut for this operation. Take the advice posted in post #2 and the process detailed with pictures in post #20 for re-installation. you will need new bolts/screws for the axles (because you need some play there for installing the arm to the ball joint) they are torque to yield, and that is no joke; you can feel them stretch. Also a good time to replace the sway bar end links.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... -need-help

*before the struts are detached, be sure to measure with calipers from the back of the strut tube to the front of the knuckle; that is the camber measurement. it is also advisable to replace those nuts and bolts as well.

Thank you for sharing the thread. Extremely helpful. I'll get the axle bolts as well. I didn't know I couldn't re-use them. Sway bar end links are new from last year (was chasing a knocking sound and ended up being the motor mounts).

I already got the new Volvo bushings. My plan is to try to buy/rent a tool at Advance, and if that doesn't work I'll get a 20 ton press at HF (only 10 miles from home). I'll keep in mind about the ball joints. The car is not being used now so I have plenty of time to get this done.

Thank you again!

Post by **oragex** » 14 Dec 2019, 17:23

Detaching the CA from the ball joint is simple in many cases. I usually put the breaker bar on the but, rotate it a little bit to break free the ball joint cone, then hold with the T40 and use two locked wrenches to undo the nut - cleaning the exposed threads helps a lot not to force too much. Then the CA comes out right away from the bj - careful again with the axle, ABS wire and brake hose as the wheel hub will rotate from the end link and move away. Installing back the new arm is the (much) less fun part. Check the bj stud by hand once is free - if it has no play at all, the genuine one is still good for quite a while. It's not that easy to remove the ball joint, need a cold chisel. Good to take a pic in advance to see how the bushings are positioned inside the arm - how deep, angle, etc