evap purge valve removed

paulgoldsmith · Post by **paulgoldsmith** » 15 Jan 2020, 08:29

I purchased a 2003 v70 a month ago, it's a non turbo 2.4 with 130,000. recently had an evap code on investigation evap purge valve has been removed. why would this be done? is this common practice? the system was designed to help protect the environment so why mess with it? The car was MOT'd just prior to purchasing . Any ideas would be appreciated.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 15 Jan 2020, 18:05

Are you sure you are looking in the correct spot? What is the code you are getting? How long have you been driving it without the code? Can you attach a picture of the area/routing where the valve was - with any work to the harness?

paulgoldsmith · Post by **paulgoldsmith** » 16 Jan 2020, 03:55

I've checked the Haynes manual which states locations are on the fan shroud or under the intake manifold. I've also seen utube footage showing it placed under the left side rear wheel arch (when viewed from the rear of the car) near the canister. I've checked all of these areas and not found the valve. the car has, and still runs smoothly without erratic idle or stalling, the only issue I've had with running was a number 5 cylinder misfire which resolved with a coil pack replacement. This occurred two days after purchase. The code was 0441 and I was driving for three weeks before it appeared which I'm struggling to understand. the car failed the MOT on O2 emission with a level of 0.24, on retest it passed with a level of 0.15. I've not been able to locate any disconnected harness so feel relatively confident that the valve must be fitted somewhere otherwise the code would have appeared sooner

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jan 2020, 04:05

Follow all you vacuum lines com8ng off the manifold, one of them will go the purge valve, perhaps through a check valve or a T splitter

paulgoldsmith · Post by **paulgoldsmith** » 16 Jan 2020, 04:08

Thanks will do that this morning

paulgoldsmith · Post by **paulgoldsmith** » 16 Jan 2020, 04:34

Have checked the vacuum lines and found the valve cable tied to the base of the airbox the wiring harness has been extended to accommodate this. the adaption looks quite professional using colour matched wires. I can only assume that it was moved to ease replacement. it does not seem to be earthed does it require earthing to work correctly? looking at the vacuum lines the line to the canister looks brand new the one going to the inlet manifold is perished, I will smoke test this for viability this morning. thank you for your advice.

Post by **oragex** » 16 Jan 2020, 10:05

Attached at the front of the airbox is rather the vacuum pump switch, it has a connector and three hoses attached to it. The evap valve is located slightly under the manifold, somehow in front of the throttle body. You can very easily locate it because it has a small hose from the front of the manifold (the area with several vacuum hoses) that will get your hand black when you touch it. The valve is actually secured on the manifold with a small metal bracket hooked on a rubber. The evap code may be caused by the breather tube under the fuel refill door, sometimes critters get inside the tube and block it - can check it from under the car.

I'd recommend testing the PCV and also the intake air thermostat - see my signature for vids

paulgoldsmith · Post by **paulgoldsmith** » 17 Jan 2020, 04:25

thanks oragex
I appreciate the lateral thinking on this problem, I've traced the vacuum pump switch and the purge valve is quite close to it but it definitely is the purge valve it has only two vacuum lines plus the harness. I've smoke tested both the purge line and the PCV system and have no vacuum leaks, however the vacuum lines do look in poor shape. I've also tested the valve off the car and although it does operated its not opening and closing consistently. I have ordered a new valve and will replace as much of the vacuum plumbing as I can without removing the inlet manifold. I had already decided to replace the PCV system along with the timing belt and water pump in a month or so when the weather is better.

Post by **oragex** » 17 Jan 2020, 06:38

Good to know about the purge valve, perhaps sitting this close to the engine block, at some point the small electromagnet inside gets damaged by the heat/vibrations. For the timing belt, I suggest the Continental kit with Aisin pump (for the pump it's about the only fail proof brand). Volvo has a well priced coolant concentrate that can be mixed with distilled water. I suggest doing the thermostat as well while the intake is out, it's not that easy to remove it (I prefer to keep the old temp sensor for spare). Also worth spinning the aux belt pulleys by hand, usually the A/C one gets rough at this time (needs new bearing and shims). I have a few vids with these jobs

paulgoldsmith · Post by **paulgoldsmith** » 17 Jan 2020, 08:13

thanks for the tips I hadn't considered the thermostat but it does make sense whilst replacement is easier, I probably would have replaced aux pulleys as again much easier to do as part of a larger project.