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shock absorber test xc70 2001

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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darrylrobert
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shock absorber test xc70 2001

Post by darrylrobert »

I have been hearing some faint hollow thumping sounds coming from my front suspension, so i checked it and found the cross (holy) nut was loose. this loose nut allows for movement/noise within the strut.the rubber upper seat was in good condition. I checked the absorber and found it also wasnt perfoming well, compared to my spare the resistance compressing was similar but it would only uncompress half way by itself, my spare uncompressed fully by itself. The shaft also had some latteral play and made some gurgling oil noises compared to my spare which had no play and made no noises.

Shock absorber  test
Shock absorber test
Question the part numbers are different, looking at Vida i couldnt find any matching part numbers anyone know i can find out what part number 8664825 is meant to be hard or soft?
Shock absorber part number
Shock absorber part number
Not finding alot online theres a video of someone using their whole body weight to compress the spring, i guess that woukd make a very hard ride?
1981 260 GLE converted to 240 M46 after auto box failure
1987 740t auto converted to M47
1997 V70t5 auto converted to M56
1998 V70 factory M56 (parts car)
2001 XC70 factory M58
2002 XC70 auto (parts car)

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

You can find the exact genuine replacement code on the metal plate on your car - of course, all aftermarket parts are the same, while Volvo has many different numbers (also see the video description) www.youtube.com/watch?v=kos_nLjjgno
As for the shocks, I had quite a few new and older, and can say that while the rod must come back fully and quite quickly, it doesn't always mean the shock is completely worn. I would say, if it doesn't leak, it doesn't ride too harsh on poor pavement, and it still bounces fine when pressing down on the car corner, I would keep it. I had to replace my original ones because they were riding really harsh on our poor roads, but if the roads were better I would have kept them. Speaking of the cross nut, it is quite hard to tighten it down because of the shape and because it sits against the rubber of the spring seat. So it doesn't need much force, just needs to be installed with the cross at the top, and not at the bottom - the cross has to sit against the top metal washer
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