Hey all,
Thanks for your help with the yellow accessory plug questions. I got my 12 volt power supply in now.
I wanted to do the least amount of dashboard hacking as possible to achieve this. Found these double sized flat delete plates on eBay so I bought both of them. Volvo part #9132255. Not sure I’ve seen these before, maybe they were in base models? They are flat on the edges and not domed like the single deletes. They also have a slightly glossy appearance compared to the singles. Decided to move the TRACs switch over to the far left, and put the plug in the middle as there is a vent tube behind this area and the plug is over 1” deep with the wires. I put the other delete plate far right. I did have to knock out a little vertical piece of black plastic to accommodate the plug but it was cracked anyway.
To prep the double delete, I had to break off the various tabs on the back that hold the wire pigtails so it would be smooth to screw the plug’s retaining nut on. I then drilled a centered 3/16” pilot hole, and followed up slowly drilling that out while it was gently clamped in a smooth jaw bench vise with a step drill bit. The hole is about 1.125” for this plug.
I wired the hot to yellow plug #2 and ground to #8. I had to remove the driver’s side knee bolster cover plastic panel to inspect my heater core, so now was the time to do this. I ran the wire along the knee bolster tucked up behind the screw holes for the plastic panel. With the three delete holes open, it was easy to fish the wires up, plug in and pop the delete plates back in.
There is a little bit of wiggle in the double delete when I open the plug’s dust cover, but I’m thinking I might just put a dab of epoxy on one of the lower delete plate clips to make sure it won’t come loose unless I have to really yank it out to repair or replace this unit at some point down the line.
The plug was about $7 on eBay and is commonly called a “marine” 12volt plug, but I don’t know how “waterproof” it actually would be. Either way, I like the way it looks and fits with the dust cover and the all black appearance kind of blends with the rest of the switches.
Thanks for all your help!
12 volt power jack installed in dashboard
- SonicAdventure
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- abscate
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Alas, my switch bank doesn’t have space for this , being populated by
STC
COMPUTER CONTROL
Third seat heater
Defrost
STC
COMPUTER CONTROL
Third seat heater
Defrost
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- SonicAdventure
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In a P80 Volvo?? What year?abscate wrote: 23 Jun 2020, 02:51 Alas, my switch bank doesn’t have space for this , being populated by
STC
COMPUTER CONTROL
Third seat heater
Defrost
- SonicAdventure
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- Year and Model: 1996 850 wagon
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Thanks. It’s kind of an unusual place for a power outlet. But, the main time I will use it for extended periods is when I’m traveling somewhere using the phone mounted in a suction cup windshield bracket for GPS. I usually mount the bracket way over to the left side of the windshield near the dashboard, so the phone is hovering right above the top left air vent. Or I have the bracket right in the middle of the windshield.
By having the power outlet here, the cable can be across the top of the steering wheel and gauge cluster vs. coming up from the cigarette lighter area and stretching across the shifter, radio and heater controls. Also by having it higher, it reduces the need to stretch or strain the cable, or having to keep one of those really long cables which seem to be more prone to cracking anyway.
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