Performance Upgrades

Benny1818 · Post by **Benny1818** » 07 Sep 2020, 11:42

This is my second time owning an S60 2.4t(I blew up my last one

) I have limited knowledge about cars in general so pretend I know nothing. I'm looking to make it quicker and handle better, make it even more fun to drive ya'know? Does anyone have some simple(ish) cheap(ish) upgrade ideas? Please don't be mean I'm just trying to learn about my car and how to work on it

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 07 Sep 2020, 12:05

How many miles on your 2002? Manual or automatic?
How well has your new car been maintained? There may be things you need to do before upping the power.

What's your budget? Are you a "lower springs" kind of guy? Are you including low profile tires?

How'd you blow up your last one?

Benny1818 · Post by **Benny1818** » 07 Sep 2020, 13:20

About 160 and it's an automatic. I bought it with a misfire and put new sparks and coil packs in and it runs fine. Check engine is on because of O2 sensor. I'm thinking about 1k for a budget. And I don't really want it lower. I live in Michigan where there's a pothole every 2 feet. I blew up my last one being a stupid teenager, I was 17 and wanted to go fast and the car threw a rod

Post by **volvolugnut** » 07 Sep 2020, 13:57

Have you looked viewtopic.php?p=294479#p294479 here?
volvolugnut

ionianp2 · Post by **ionianp2** » 08 Sep 2020, 06:15

These engines are geared more for longevity as opposed to power. If you had the 5spd, it would have already been more fun to drive.

Nonetheless, you could put a stainless steel exhaust from ViVA or iPad. That would be a start. The rest depends on how much time/money you want to put in it.

I agree with what was said above. Make sure it's running well before you start doing these types of projects.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 08 Sep 2020, 08:19

#1) It's good you know about your oxygen sensor. How'd you learn it was the O2 sensor? What kind of code reader do you have?
Generally speaking it's the upstream one which goes first. Get a DENSO or Volvo replacement.
That'll bite into your $1,000 dollar budget right there.
Do this first as a bad upstream sensor makes your engine burn 25% more fuel and that cannot be good for your cat.
Mine went on my 2002 but I noticed the excess fuel use quickly.

#2) For an additional $22 may I suggest doing a drain and fill of your transmission fluid? The price I quoted is AutoZone's current sale price for a gallon jug of Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc LV synthetic transmission fluid.
Buy this and get one D&F done.
At 160K it's likely your fluid is dirty. I'd "break the dirt's back" with Maxlife LV drain & fills then go to a preferred fluid if that's what makes you purr.

#3) I'd consider and oil change using either Mobil1 0W-40 or Castrol 0W-30. Both are synthetic and both say "European Formula" on the label. Open the oil filler cap and look inside. Is the cap's bottom and the filler neck covered with black crud? If the PO used cheap oil or neglected it entirely I'd freshen my juices and drive it a bit before even buying a pine tree air freshener for the mirror.

#4) Do a glove test. That involves stretching a latex glove or balloon over the oil filler neck of your running engine (after removing the cap). The glove should suck inward. If it blows outward you face the mundane task of replacing your PCV system. This is an unavoidable maintenance operation. I went into a "Party World" shop and asked for a balloon so I could perform this test. I said I didn't want to buy a 100 balloon bag so the nice girls gave me two. They came out and watched me because they said I made it sound interesting.

#5) Examine your ETM for a sticker. It'll be white or yellow. It might be on the bottom side so bring a small mirror. The sticker's color will tell you if your original ETM was replaced or not. I forget which color means what.
If it has not been replaced there's a higher likelihood it may fail. The design is not a strong one and the remedy is a "$500 rebuild" where modern tech is employed. Keep the $500 aside 'til you know what you're dealing with.

#6) Howz your brakes? No sense modding a car if the damn thing won't stop!

#7) The fuel filter is commonly overlooked. They trap water. Winter is coming. They can freeze up as well as plainly clog.
Do you see where I'm going with this? Hint-hint>>>The filter is ahead of the left rear wheel.

#8) Now, with the balance of your thau, go tire shopping......after buying a suit at Marshall Field.

Post by **matthew1** » 08 Sep 2020, 14:10

Good responses, everyone.

Benny, welcome to MVS Forums.

I'd do a Stage 0. The reason is this: you could spend a grand and get a 50hp tune (ballpark) but be down 30 or 40 or 50hp because of old components.

In that second scenario you'd also be risking a lean condition, or risking brake failure while you're having fun with that extra 50hp. Also, you might be risking your time (money) because a tune assumes the car is Stage 0. If you have a cracked vacuum line for instance, you're going to call IPD or whoever you buy the tune from and complain you're not getting 50hp and you have a check engine light when you do a pull.

Benny1818 · Post by **Benny1818** » 08 Sep 2020, 20:01

Thank you all for the Replies. I will definitely go down that list and make sure the car isn't in disrepair. Stage 0 it is. This is a great start, I really appreciate the help!

Post by **matthew1** » 10 Sep 2020, 08:50

reverend · Post by **reverend** » 16 Sep 2020, 22:30

Georgeandkira wrote: ↑08 Sep 2020, 08:19The price I quoted is AutoZone's current sale price for a gallon jug of Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc LV synthetic transmission fluid.

Don't the 2002s use 3309 trans fluid? If so, using Dex/Merc fluid would cause ugly issues, no?

Georgeandkira wrote: #3) I'd consider and oil change using either Mobil1 0W-40 or Castrol 0W-30. Both are synthetic and both say "European Formula" on the label.

The manual will correct me, but don't these engines require ACEA A1/B1 or A5/B5 for "severe duty"? That spec might be more vital than "European formula" on the label.

Georgeandkira wrote: #7) The fuel filter is commonly overlooked. They trap water. Winter is coming. They can freeze up as well as plainly clog.
Do you see where I'm going with this? Hint-hint>>>The filter is ahead of the left rear wheel.

I didn't see a mention of the car being a diesel so water shouldn't be an issue, but filters trap dirt, so it's always a good idea to replace them. Cheap and easy.