2004 S60 2.5T AWD Oil Change

[StickyPocket]

Hi all,

Planning on doing my first oil change myself for my S60. Gonna put it up on ramps and getting the following from FCP Euro:

5L 5W30 LiquiMoly Special Tec LL
2x 1L 5W30 LiquiMoly Special Tec LL
Genuine Volvo Engine Oil Filter Kit (filter and gasket)
Heavy Duty Engine Oil Filter Cap Wrench
Volvo Oil Filler Cap Gasket

I already have a drain plug gasket to replace the old one. Few questions - first, are all of the things listed above ok? Anything you'd get different, or not bother changing (like the oil filler cap gasket?) Do I need to change the drain plug, or is just the gasket ok? Why do the FCP Euro oil change kits have 7 L of oil in them? Don't I only need to replace 5.8? So i'd need 6L, right?

Thanks in advance.

[cn90]

This is what I do:
- Car on wood ramps.
- Any synthetic is fine with me (NAPA, Castrol).
- About 6 qts.
- Filter: Mahle, Mann or Volvo (Volvo is basically Mahle at inflated price).
- Oil Filter Wrench: Assenmacher-V-410.

[Georgeandkira]

It's real easy to overthink something like a first oil change. You'll do fine.

1) I spread an old packing blanket between my ramps to catch any flying drops of oil.

2) Many of the "white engines" listed 6.1 qt. as their capacity. There's your 7 quarts.

3) No need to change the oil drain plug unless yours has no magnet and you want one with a magnet. If the hex head is rounded off you may want to change it.

4) Make double certain you're turning fasteners the correct way. When you're in a new position, say, up-side-down on your back working with your arms "over" your head under a low car etc., it's easy to turn something the wrong way. Ask me how I know.

5) If you bought a cup style oil filter socket you may find it wants to walk off the filter housing right when you apply torque. You might have to push on the socket to keep it in position.

5a.) I have a plain, old fashioned steel strap wrench (real cheap). It won't tighten enough to grab the filter housing so I add a 6" piece of old belt to take up the slack. The housing is fairly well shrouded but once I get the strap onto the filter and tightened, all I need do is nudge the filter a few times. Seriously, 2 or 3 nudges of 20º and It is then free to turn off easily.

5b.) Look and see the large O-ring in the housing. There's a gap in one of the retention cheeks where you pry out the old O-ring. Use a wooden or plastic tool. Do not gouge the housing. If the old O-ring is hard and crispy just take your time. Make sure it's all out before you roll the new one into place.
When you screw it back on with a new filter inside, oil the O-ring and start turning. You'll feel the O-ring yield into the bore and you just keep turning smoothly. It'll travel 12 to 20mm. I never measured. When you feel it stop you're done. It "shoulders out".
You do not moose muscle it beyond a touch. The thing is just plastic after all.

6) How many miles are on this car?

[oragex]

Get one of these while they still sell them (most places are sold out). Easy to work with and excellent to give you an idea about engine wear - it traps small and larger metal shavings https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11213/1 ... tic-986833

My only advice when changing the filter is not to overtighten back the filter housing cup. Just 'snug' so you can undo it easily the next time. It is sealed by the rubber seal (which needs replaced), rather by the cup tightness

These are my tips when switching to synthetic (after using mineral)

[br0dy519]

Get one of these while they still sell them (most places are sold out). Easy to work with and excellent to give you an idea about engine wear - it traps small and larger metal shavings https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11213/1 ... tic-986833

My only advice when changing the filter is not to overtighten back the filter housing cup. Just 'snug' so you can undo it easily the next time. It is sealed by the rubber seal (which needs replaced), rather by the cup tightness

These are my tips when switching to synthetic (after using mineral)

Just adding to this, you can request the MTC part number at any local Carquest/competent parts store (982547) and they should be able to find that part for you. I was able to get one next-day in a pinch when I realized I bought a car with a rounded bolt head. DON'T use the generic one they sell, the flange is too big and doesn't seal correctly.

[chrism]

Having tried three or four different types of oil filter wrenches over the years, my favorite one is the canvas strap type. You can slip it onto the filter up in tight places and it is definitely “one size fits all.

It does require a 1/2” drive to turn it.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/tou ... &gclsrc=ds

[StickyPocket]

Thanks everyone for the advice! I'm going to look into it more deeply a bit later and reach out if i still have questions.

...

2) Many of the "white engines" listed 6.1 qt. as their capacity. There's your 7 quarts.

...

6) How many miles are on this car?

6.1 qt = 5.8 L. FCPEuro's kit is selling 7 liters for some reason.

There's around 74k miles on the car.

Thanks!

[cn90]

Trust me, done this oil change many times.
All you need is 6 qts.
You don't want the universal tool. Get the tool I posted above.

[darrylrobert]

Dont forget to run the engine to temp before changing, wear thick gloves when undoing the drain plug and beware of hot oil splashing on you. i second getting a proper filter tool.

[abscate]

The 7th liter goes into your trunk for your spare oil. You can trade that for vaccine in the Apololyose