Radiator recommendations?

[Blacklab467]

Just diagnosed a radiator leak on my XC. It's leaking from the passenger side bottom corner. Volvo OEM is about $325 CDN. I see that IPD has an aftermarket branded one for about $160 USD. Does anyone have any experience with those? Sometimes those aftermarket ones don't have exactly the same mounting holes. Alternatively I could grab one from the auto wreckers for $50 and take my chances.......comments?

[- Pete -]

The only experience I have with replacements is the do88 radiator. Pretty impressive construction, but far from economical in price. I didn’t have a leak, but I was replacing the intercooler with a larger one so I did both at the same time. You’ll drop the original one out the bottom. You may have to (or it may be easier to) drop it and possibly the intercooler also. I say that because it’s very easy to damage the fins trying to push the rad back up. Main thing you want to avoid is having to disconnect the condenser.

Edit: I forgot to mention. The original has plastic end tanks & every other aftermarket I’ve seen does as well. The do88 is entirely constructed of Al.

[volvolugnut]

I may have a minority opinion, but you can also remove from the top. More parts to remove, but not so much work on the floor/ground and no need to raise the car.

Check these posts=
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=86829&p=520278&hili ... or#p520278

volvolugnut

[cn90]

- Go to FCPEuro and read reviews on Nissens (US $121).

- In the P80 world (I had a 1998 S70 GLT), Nissens brand is great.

- Not sure if FCPEuro ships to Alberta Canada but ask them. Or find some local stores that sell Nissens...

[volvomadness]

I have replaced about 5 radiators in my time (xc70, s70 s60). Always bought them at advanced auto around 125. exact fit no problems.

When you install the xc70 passenger side lower bolt is a real pta. You may not be able to get it out have to cut it. All other models gave enough clearance.

Keep the clips from the old radiator. Sometimes they don't come with the radiator

[SuperHerman]

My experience has been the twisting of existing radiators when removing and installing is the final death to the internal crimp points.

The danger of a used radiator is who took it out and has it been twisted in a manner that compromises it. A warranty from the wrecker is advisable, and if one does not mind redoing the work used is a cost effective option. Examination of the used part is critical - a pressure test before install, by capping off the various ends would make sense.

As far as Nissan - I have had no problems with their products the two or three times I have used them for radiators.

Circling back, what ever you elect to install, avoid twisting when forcing it into place.

[Blacklab467]

Thanks for the input everyone, I’ll do some pricing and research and get one on its way! I should probably also get new rad hoses at the same time as they are probably originals.

[firstv70volvo]

Thanks for the input everyone, I’ll do some pricing and research and get one on its way! I should probably also get new rad hoses at the same time as they are probably originals.

I've replaced two radiators in my car, the original radiator lasted 13 years, the replacement Nissens rad lasted 7 years and then the top inlet broke off while driving and left me stranded. The 2nd replacement from O'Reily's (Murray house brand) is of questionable quality, many of the tabs that clamp the end tanks to the core weren't folded over even one next to the top inlet so I couldn't even put on the radiator hose on until the tab was bent over as it should have been. I don't expect this radiator to last. I also replaced the radiator hoses with Napa brand hoses, which seem to be of good quality but the thickness of the top hose created a problem getting the clamp in the correct position. Not sure if it's just the radiator I purchased but there's very limited space between the top inlet and core of the radiator, once the hose is on I couldn't get the clamp to slide down far enough to get behind the lip on the inlet. The short top inlet and thicker Napa hose didn't help things and I ended up modifying (making the band thinner in one section) the hose clamp so it would slip on far enough.

Also, if I do have to replace the radiator again I'm going to try Volvolugnut's remove from the top method. Removing from the bottom may be faster but both times I didn't like the strain put on the A/C line still connected to the condenser. You have to drop the intercooler, condenser, radiator sandwich down far enough to get the radiator out and I was very careful to support the condenser and intercooler although there was still some strain on the condenser line because of having to lowering these items and the A/C line is not something you ever want to break on you for safety reasons. Maybe this line it tough enough and I'm being overly cautious but I'm still going to try Volvolugnut's method if I get the "opportunity" to replace the radiator again.

[azureblue]

when I did a radiator R&R, I attached some string to two pieces of cardboard, cut big enough to cover the core, and pulled the cardboard out once the rad was in place and the fan / housing assembly was dropped in but not attached

[abscate]

Nissens fromFCP....the last one you have pay for........