This is for the 2001 Volvo V70 XC a friend gave me before moving overseas - I’m having a few issues including a Clunk in Reverse. Common issue apparently and a tell tale sign of failing transmission. The Volvo dealer I went to checked transmission mounts and engine mounts before saying possible transmission.
Anyway won’t be going to the dealer for that but if I got a second hand or rebuilt what labor time am I looking at for a mechanic to do.
I’ve also read somewhere it’s probably just the Valve Body - what’s labor like on those?
Starting to look at what options - I’m not in a position to get another car or it’s only going to be in the same price range and same issues maybe and apart from that issue car is great.
Has anyone got any possible scenarios around how long the transmission may last with only the reverse clunk? I know it’s not guaranteed but if it’s a month or two or a year or two just after personal experiences. No other issues, no delays in gear change.
Transmission Replacement
- oragex
- Posts: 5347
- Joined: 24 May 2013
- Year and Model: S60 2003
- Location: Canada
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Tell us more about the actual issues and mileage. Delay and kick in Reverse may be as simple as needing solenoids or adaptations. Going to Volvo for this is like going on Safari by foot
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
Just a clunk going into reverse. No delay though. All other gears are fine. Every now and again a slip between 1 and 2 but that’s mainly when cold starting.
The dealer are saying it’s likely just a Valve Body but the work involved in a valve body is better spent on a transmission as it doesn’t fix how the issue occurred.
It’s only early days and I wouldn’t be using the dealer for this work.
- oragex
- Posts: 5347
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I would not invest such money, especially since they will put a refurbished unit which is not bullet proof. If that doesn't fix the clonk, they will just say sorry. May try to investigate first on engine mounts- easy to inspect with the car on ramps and pushing with a pry bar, engine torque mounts upper and lower, spring seats. All these can be inspected without removing anything. 167k km is very early, I'm rather thinking some torque mount
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- Blacklab467
- Posts: 1113
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- Year and Model: 2007 xc 70
- Location: Calgary, AB
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My ‘03 used to clonk pretty hard going into drive and reverse and had a bad shift flare on the 2~3 shift. I changed all 5 mounts because they were worn out hoping that was the problem at 260000 kms.
Ended up rebuilding the linear solenoids with a Transgo shift kit for $150 and it’s been shifting like new ever since, very happy with the results!
If you’re contemplating replacing the transmission at 167000 kms, Oragex is right, it’s unlikely that it’s worn out. It’s about a 8 or 10 hour job to get the valve body off and service it and get the car back together and we’ll worth the time. Lots of write ups on this forum on the job.
Ended up rebuilding the linear solenoids with a Transgo shift kit for $150 and it’s been shifting like new ever since, very happy with the results!
If you’re contemplating replacing the transmission at 167000 kms, Oragex is right, it’s unlikely that it’s worn out. It’s about a 8 or 10 hour job to get the valve body off and service it and get the car back together and we’ll worth the time. Lots of write ups on this forum on the job.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
- SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
- Joined: 1 December 2014
- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
- Location: Minnesota
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So you have about 103,000 miles.
How does the transmission fluid look and have you done a drain and fill? Did you see any metal particles in the drained oil (if done) or was excess metal found on the oil drain plug.
Unless your transmission has a hard part failure, which is very rare at your miles, the issue is most likely in the valve body.
For your model year it is not uncommon for the valve body to have issues. The solenoids were updated in 2002 or 2003 which solved the problem for the most part. The real issue is the silly idea of lifetime transmission fluid.
I would start with making sure the clunk is not your propeller shaft. Then make sure your fluid is properly filled. If you have not had your fluid changed, do a drain and fill. Read up on it, should take about 3.5 liters.
If you can find some SeaFoam TransTune add that and let it do its work. It may take 500 miles or more to do anything, then again it may do nothing. Some have had luck, others have not. I mention this because with a funnel, and a 17mm wrench/socket (it may be another size), and a drain pan you can do a drain and fill. Basically with pan and wrench get under car, locate transmission drain pan bolt, remove it and let the fluid drain into the pan. As stated 3.5 liters should come out. Measure what came out, close enough, and replace the same amount less .5 liter and then check your transmission oil dipstick. Add a can of SeaFoam TransTune (amount per can instructions) and start engine, let it warm up and check your level. Top off transmission as needed. Then drive the car for a period of time and maybe it will improve. This is the cheapest solution which some have had luck with. Shouldn't cost you too much. After 15k kms or so you can do another drain and fill and be fine moving forward. Maybe revisit in 40-60k kms.
If you like this idea and plan on moving forward with it - respond back with questions. One point - the drain bolt is on the bottom of the pan - DO NOT TOUCH what appears to be a fill plug on the top of the transmission. DO NOT - it is not related and will ruin things. The fill is through the dipstick which is right by the radiator hose and should have a yellow top. Ask questions if confused. Post pictures if confused. There are tons of write ups on this.
Now the other option is to replace just the solenoids with Rostra valves. One more option is to rebuild the valve body and the solenoids with a TransGo kit: https://transgo.com/product-details/ais ... shift-kit/
I did this with my 2001 XC70 and it resolved my shifter problems.
The only other weak point on the 2001 XC70 is the Servo, but your description doesn't match this issue.
How does the transmission fluid look and have you done a drain and fill? Did you see any metal particles in the drained oil (if done) or was excess metal found on the oil drain plug.
Unless your transmission has a hard part failure, which is very rare at your miles, the issue is most likely in the valve body.
For your model year it is not uncommon for the valve body to have issues. The solenoids were updated in 2002 or 2003 which solved the problem for the most part. The real issue is the silly idea of lifetime transmission fluid.
I would start with making sure the clunk is not your propeller shaft. Then make sure your fluid is properly filled. If you have not had your fluid changed, do a drain and fill. Read up on it, should take about 3.5 liters.
If you can find some SeaFoam TransTune add that and let it do its work. It may take 500 miles or more to do anything, then again it may do nothing. Some have had luck, others have not. I mention this because with a funnel, and a 17mm wrench/socket (it may be another size), and a drain pan you can do a drain and fill. Basically with pan and wrench get under car, locate transmission drain pan bolt, remove it and let the fluid drain into the pan. As stated 3.5 liters should come out. Measure what came out, close enough, and replace the same amount less .5 liter and then check your transmission oil dipstick. Add a can of SeaFoam TransTune (amount per can instructions) and start engine, let it warm up and check your level. Top off transmission as needed. Then drive the car for a period of time and maybe it will improve. This is the cheapest solution which some have had luck with. Shouldn't cost you too much. After 15k kms or so you can do another drain and fill and be fine moving forward. Maybe revisit in 40-60k kms.
If you like this idea and plan on moving forward with it - respond back with questions. One point - the drain bolt is on the bottom of the pan - DO NOT TOUCH what appears to be a fill plug on the top of the transmission. DO NOT - it is not related and will ruin things. The fill is through the dipstick which is right by the radiator hose and should have a yellow top. Ask questions if confused. Post pictures if confused. There are tons of write ups on this.
Now the other option is to replace just the solenoids with Rostra valves. One more option is to rebuild the valve body and the solenoids with a TransGo kit: https://transgo.com/product-details/ais ... shift-kit/
I did this with my 2001 XC70 and it resolved my shifter problems.
The only other weak point on the 2001 XC70 is the Servo, but your description doesn't match this issue.
- cleven
- Posts: 92
- Joined: 27 January 2013
- Year and Model: 2001 V70 T5
- Location: Fort Smith, Arkansas
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My trans was acting up when I bought mine. The old owner drove it so long messes up I didn’t even wanna chance replacing sensors or anything . I just went in ahead and replaced the trans. 600 miles later going strong .
- SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
- Joined: 1 December 2014
- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
- Location: Minnesota
- Been thanked: 207 times
cleven: While your solution worked out well for you, it is not always possible over seas. I don't have any problem with your approach.
A number of years ago, I bought 3 V70 transmissions sold as cores - if I recall for $50 total. I imagine the cores came from people that did exactly what you did. I had no experience with transmissions and I did it for a learning exercise. Here is what I found:
Tranny 1) This transmission had dirt black transmission fluid and a failed B4 servo. All of the disks and steels were fine as well as all of the mechanical parts.
Tranny 2) Same failure as #1, but it was for an AWD application. I actually sent an hard part piece to a forum member in Australia for postage.
Tranny 3) Nothing wrong with the transmission other than dirt black oil. Ended up using the valve body as a core for a rebuild, as the letter matched the one I needed.
I never tested the solenoids other than with an ohm-meter, which all passed, I don't know if they were gummed up or not. #3, which I rebuilt, with the TransGo kit, did have the black plaque, which may have been the issue the donor car was experiencing.
Bottom line, assuming one doesn't have a proper scanner, change the transmission fluid if it is dirty black as a first step. Some have had luck with SeaFoam TransTune, so it doesn't hurt to throw some in for the added solvent. I used Valvoline MaxLife as it is cheap and plentiful. When gambling on liquid mechanic solutions, one can try for $35 USD all in. After that, if one has some skills, a valve body rebuild with the TransGo kit almost always works. Should be able to be in and out for $150 USD. This of course assumes there are no hard part failures, and one does their own labor.
When I was done with my $50 lesson, all of scraps went to the metal recycler.
I took a bunch of lumps getting there (here), and the car was a fun project and not a daily driver. If one is paying a shop to do the work, your approach is prudent.
A number of years ago, I bought 3 V70 transmissions sold as cores - if I recall for $50 total. I imagine the cores came from people that did exactly what you did. I had no experience with transmissions and I did it for a learning exercise. Here is what I found:
Tranny 1) This transmission had dirt black transmission fluid and a failed B4 servo. All of the disks and steels were fine as well as all of the mechanical parts.
Tranny 2) Same failure as #1, but it was for an AWD application. I actually sent an hard part piece to a forum member in Australia for postage.
Tranny 3) Nothing wrong with the transmission other than dirt black oil. Ended up using the valve body as a core for a rebuild, as the letter matched the one I needed.
I never tested the solenoids other than with an ohm-meter, which all passed, I don't know if they were gummed up or not. #3, which I rebuilt, with the TransGo kit, did have the black plaque, which may have been the issue the donor car was experiencing.
Bottom line, assuming one doesn't have a proper scanner, change the transmission fluid if it is dirty black as a first step. Some have had luck with SeaFoam TransTune, so it doesn't hurt to throw some in for the added solvent. I used Valvoline MaxLife as it is cheap and plentiful. When gambling on liquid mechanic solutions, one can try for $35 USD all in. After that, if one has some skills, a valve body rebuild with the TransGo kit almost always works. Should be able to be in and out for $150 USD. This of course assumes there are no hard part failures, and one does their own labor.
When I was done with my $50 lesson, all of scraps went to the metal recycler.
I took a bunch of lumps getting there (here), and the car was a fun project and not a daily driver. If one is paying a shop to do the work, your approach is prudent.
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