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Help with erratic acceleration (throttle, thermostat, more?)

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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leapdragon
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Help with erratic acceleration (throttle, thermostat, more?)

Post by leapdragon »

Hi all,

Working my way through a newly acquired 2007 XC70 and have discovered an issue (several issues? not sure) that I need help figuring out.

Quick background: PCV done, tranny done, timing belt done, thermostat new, new oil, new air filter, new fuel filter. No codes in VIDA (well, at first—more on this in a sec).

The symptom (part I): When traveling at highway speed and you give enough throttle (say, passing throttle), it stumbles. At first I thought uh-oh, tranny, or haldex, or something right on the wheels, or whatever, but the more I felt it and reproduced it, the more I thought not. It happens about 1-1.5 seconds after acceleration kicks in, and there is one stumble for a fraction of a second, and then it's back to normal.

The symptom (part II): Because I started to suspect it was something other than the wheels and things directly connected to the wheels, I fired up Torque and watched a bunch of stuff. Things that make me wrinkle my brow: (1) fuel pressure varies from about 45 to about 42-43 when accelerating... is it me, or is this low? (2) the biggie: when accelerating, the throttle seems to hunt a bit (steady pressure, but reading varying) and then also frequently jump wildly up from 20-30 to 85+ for a second or so, then fall back down to the 20-30 range. That jump to 85+ is really obvious because there is no new foot movement associated with it and that's near the top of the range, like it thinks it got stomped.

The symptom (part III): I left torque running after I got off the highway. Turns out the same thing is happening on side streets at 25mph, it's just that it doesn't seem to cause a stutter or anything like that at slow speeds. But the jump is still there. Accelerate a little and it's like 15... 17... 22... 85.5... 21... 16... 85.5... 20.

The symptom (part iv): Other things that I'm not sure are related but bear mentioning: as I was doing my test, two new things happened that I've not seen before. (1) According to torque, coolant temperature hit 221 degrees. That seems too high, should it not be about 20-30 degrees less? And yet the temperature needle in the dash remained pegged firmly in the middle — should I trust whatever sensor torque is reading, or the needle in the dash? (2) A new code popped up for a bad O2 sensor reading.

Obviously, something is amiss. Immediate candidates for suspicion:

  • Throttle module (cleaned when doing PCV) — Bad module? Bad connection?
  • Fuel pressure sensor/regulator? — Misbehaving / doing wild things and ECU trying to compensate and torque is reading some secondary value?
  • Fuel pump? — Is the fuel pressure low and it's due to a weak pump?
  • O2 sensor? — Could this cause a stumble under acceleration? But probably not a crazy throttle, right?
  • New thermostat? — is the temp related at all? Is 221 normal after all and I just think it's too high?
  • ECU behaving oddly? — Bad ECU seating or bad ECU fan?

Hoping someone who's seen one or several of these symptoms has some ideas. Car remains eminently drivable, I just came back from having it on the highway for 50 miles and if I stick it in cruise and just go along that way, temp is 201, throttle is rock solid and you'd never know anything was wrong.

But obviously, something somewhere is wrong...
Last edited by leapdragon on 31 May 2021, 18:31, edited 2 times in total.

leapdragon
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Post by leapdragon »

Forgot one more symptom that I noticed the other day, that may be connected:

After a cold start, RPMs don't fall right away... They stay between 1,500 and 2,000 until I give the gas a tap, and then they fall down to idle RPM. Almost like an old carbureted engine.

I didn't think much of it when I first noticed it, but now it seems related to the other items. My gut says ETM or fuel pressure regulator... but... I'm open to suggestions.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The high idle is normal operation for this engine.

The fuel pressure should be up,at 52 psi, looks like you have a problem there

What’s the date code and history on the coils and spark plugs?

They last 100k/30k respectively
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leapdragon
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Post by leapdragon »

I have new plugs to go in soon, don't know the plug history. I'm going to assume coils are original and have 180k on them.

But if the line pressure is low I'm going to assume that has something to do with it until ruled out.

Working theory is that fuel line problems result in a bad mix which ultimately caused the o2 sensor bad reading.

Have a new pressure sensor/regulator on the way. Will re-seat all the electrical connectors. Just learned that after cleaning the throttle (say, when doing a PCV) you're supposed to reset the ETM in Vida so that the system can re-learn with a clean throttle. Going to hope that's got something to do with erratic throttle readings.

What's the procedure for fuel pump on a 2007? Last time I had to do one was on a 2000 and the whole rear had to be dropped. :shock: Hoping there's an access panel now in case a new pump is needed...

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Post by pbierre »

I had these exact same symptoms with my 2004 XC70. I replaced the plugs and coil-packs, and problem solved. At the same time you replace these ignition components, inspect the coil-pack wire harness for cracks in the sheathing....those need to be sealed with a non-acidic glue (methacrylate superglue) as soon as discovered.

leapdragon
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Post by leapdragon »

Okay, thanks for that abscate and pbierre, game plan is:

- New fuel pressure sensor
- New plugs
- New coils
- Reset throttle adaptation in Vida

We'll see whether those resolve it. Will report back in a week or two. :-)

leapdragon
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Post by leapdragon »

Initial update:

- Replaced fuel pressure sensor
- Replaced coils (new OEM)
- Replaced plugs (new OEM)
- Reset throttle adaptation in VIDA

Seems much better. Have not yet had a chance to get extended highway time, so not sure whether it's 100% fixed or not, but will verify soon and report back.

Interesting factoids:

After replacing coils and plugs and resetting throttle, car seemed to have more stable power and did seem to run more evenly and quietly, i.e. if accelerator was left at constant position, there was less of a feeling of surging, which by comparison, it is clear had been there before.

However, it then became far more clear after replacing coils and plugs that throttle response was not linear, i.e. you'd smoothly increase pressure on the accelerator, yet the car would only *slightly* increase RPMs for a good portion of the pedal movement, but you'd cross some threshold and it would suddenly swing up to 3k-4k fairly rapidly.

After replacing fuel pressure sensor/regulator (not sure which it is... both?) at the end of the rail, throttle response is *far* more linear and it feels much more like an XC70 should.

Will report back on highway experience as soon as I get on the highway.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

that might be turbo related. Turbo control vale or TCV, easy to clean and test, cheap to replace.


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Post by abscate »

There should be throttle parameters you could monitor to see if it is opening smoothly. You could also remove the snorkel and observe it. Not sure if this works with engine off , these cars are smahrt.
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leapdragon
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Post by leapdragon »

So, update:

Took it out on the highway for quite a while today. The super-predictable "hiccup" on acceleration at speed is gone. (Excellent!) So that was fixed by one of:
  • Reset throttle calibration in VIDA
  • Replace fuel pressure sensor/regulator
  • Replace plugs w/new OEM
  • Replace coils w/new OEM
Now that the immediate hiccup is gone, however, it's also clear that I'm not holding boost. When we get into boost range, it'll start and then let go, and then start, and then let go.

So, I'm next going to replace:
  • Vacuum hoses on turbo control valve w/IPD silicone kit
  • Turbo control valve
  • Vacuum line from intake to turbo bypass valve
I have a couple questions for anyone that's worked with a sketchy turbo:
  • Good idea to replace the bypass valve as well? How often do these fail?
  • Are there some check valves in the system? PCV valve maybe? Others? Replace those too?
Thoughts on the above two points welcome.

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