2006 Volvo S60 AWD - turbo replacement

[notny41]

Hi everyone, I have an 2006 S60 AWD that is smoking like crazy. I am wondering what kind of job is it to replace the turbocharger? Just wondering if the car is worth putting the time and money into this thing. It runs really good. I hate to just junk the thing...

[erikv11]

Replacing the turbo is an annoying PITA, for me I have to basically lay on top of the engine and snake my hands in and around the various pipes and exhaust bits. Takes a few hours and patience and you need just the right short wrench here and there (sorry for the vague generalities, it's been a while). With AWD your access from the bottom is mostly blocked.

The turbo is almost never the problem, they are extremely durable. How is the PCV, did you give it a glove test?

[notny41]

well, mine looks almost exactly like this one:



Mine might even smoke a little more... Still runs good - just started doing this and loss of power when accellerating. Has 250k miles on it.

[notny41]

How do you do the PCV glove test?

[matthew1]

Rick explains in another thread:

Not sure what glove test is, the pressure wants to pull oil fill cap back into hole.

Glove test:
1. Remove the filler cap.
2. Tye a latex glove over the filler spout.
3. Start the engine.
If the glove deflates ( Vacuum or Negative pressure relative to atmosphere pressure ) the test is a pass.
If the glove inflates ( Positive pressure relative to atmosphere pressure ) the test is a fail and the PCV system needs service.

[jonesg]

Hi everyone, I have an 2006 S60 AWD that is smoking like crazy. I am wondering what kind of job is it to replace the turbocharger? Just wondering if the car is worth putting the time and money into this thing. It runs really good. I hate to just junk the thing...

remove intake hose from front of turbo , see if you can detect play in the shaft.

if so,you can get a seal kit , main shaft has reverse threads on the ends.
or get a rebuilt, balanced core for under $200.
I found a harbor freight low profile 3/8 ratchet was useful to disconnect the banjo bolts from the turbo,
theres one bolt that is difficult to get, some can be done from the top.

low profile wrench.jpg (5.08 KiB) Viewed 2858 times

[jonesg]

also need large snap ring tool, got mine from amazon.
You save $1500 DIY so its worth buying some tools.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192893657419?c ... csEALw_wcB

[notny41]

How large of a snap ring pliers do I need? I have a decent set of pliers - not sure if they would be large enough though.

I got this set off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0814 ... =UTF8&th=1

[erikv11]

I think the snap ring pliers must be for if you rebuild. Can't recall or figure out where you would be using them to get the turbo in and out. Anyway if they are needed for removal, then my crappy little set was enough, you're totally fine.

Buying tools is more fun but you may want to work on diagnosis first! Checking for shaft play is also a good idea. A good turbo can have a little bit of end play (up and down). There should not be much radial play (side to side). And of course the vanes should not contact the housing. All of mine have some shaft play except the 15g I paid to have rebuilt about ten years ago.

[jonesg]

when all the lines are pulled, the alum side of the turbo is held by the circle clamp, just one nut/bolt.
Then the front section comes out along with the drain tube. Changing the cartridge/core is just a matter of removing the circlip, but its a big clip, 2 or 3 inch diameter. A vice is very helpful and a second set of hands.
Its a good time to change the drain tube gasket and seal on the end.
Its also good to add witness marks on both halves of the turbo, some have alignment pin , mine was awol.