I am attempting to replace the head gasket on my 2002 v70XC Turbo, right now I have to remove the cam cover. I am making the tools to hold the cams in place. Should they be held to the head or the cover? Most of the tutorials say to hold them to the cover, however, the head seems to have better screw holes to keep the tool in place.
VIDA says to use the 5454 tool to hold the cover down and loosen bit by bit when taking off the cover, but Haynes and multiple tutorials do not. Is it really necessary to have this tool?
Does the VVT thing have to be removed? I read it has to because there is a bolt that interferes with the removal of the cam cover, but I don't see it on my car.
By vvt thing, I mean the metal thing attached to the end of the cam shown in the photo As you can see, I took the gear off..
Removing cam/valve cover
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You can’t attach it to the head because one of the cylinders on each cam is open so it won’t lie flat.
I wire it to the upper cover with copper wire, using a 10 mm in each cam rear end, and wrapping around the other end of the cam. I either find a protrusion to wrap the wire or hold it up with my fingers during install.
The tool is nice but you can snug the cam down with only four M6 bolts around cylinders 2 and 4, too.
I got really practiced at this, at the six times I removed the cover trying to get my T5 right
VVT hub can stay on if you cleverly pass your seal down the length of the cam, and carefully seat it by eye into the cam and cover with wood sticks. A Schmeer of permatex aviation will help seal.
If it leaks, not too much Labour lost, set the cam tool, crack the big Torx (T55) and do the deed
Why did I have to do the job 6 times? Inadequate prelube on the cam thrust surfaces near cylinder 1. Without a good coating of grease, these surfaces gall and your cams won’t rotate.
Keep paper towel waste to a minimum too, so you don’t drop it into your pan and have to add a oil pan drop and oring job to your list, like a very good friend of mine
I wire it to the upper cover with copper wire, using a 10 mm in each cam rear end, and wrapping around the other end of the cam. I either find a protrusion to wrap the wire or hold it up with my fingers during install.
The tool is nice but you can snug the cam down with only four M6 bolts around cylinders 2 and 4, too.
I got really practiced at this, at the six times I removed the cover trying to get my T5 right
VVT hub can stay on if you cleverly pass your seal down the length of the cam, and carefully seat it by eye into the cam and cover with wood sticks. A Schmeer of permatex aviation will help seal.
If it leaks, not too much Labour lost, set the cam tool, crack the big Torx (T55) and do the deed
Why did I have to do the job 6 times? Inadequate prelube on the cam thrust surfaces near cylinder 1. Without a good coating of grease, these surfaces gall and your cams won’t rotate.
Keep paper towel waste to a minimum too, so you don’t drop it into your pan and have to add a oil pan drop and oring job to your list, like a very good friend of mine
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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