Complete electronics shut down

imaV70Rdriver · Post by **imaV70Rdriver** » 05 Feb 2022, 15:28

Hi all, I also posted this on another site.

There are no functioning electronic systems on my 2004 V70R, M66. The only thing that works is the radio, and I can hear the fuel pump whirring when I turn the key, but no dash lights, hazards, power to windows, nor power to seats, and it will not crank. There are no signs of life when you insert and turn the key, other than the fuel pump. There is fuel at the valve on the engine.

The car died instantly while driving, luckily slowly in my neighborhood and not on the highway. The tach froze at 1900 rpm, the fuel gauge froze in place, and the car stopped dead in its tracks with a whooomph!

I removed all valuables (windows are open) and let it sit overnight where it was. In the morning, the tach had dropped to zero, and the fuel gauge was at rest. I turned the key and it cranked but didn't start the first time, but it did the second, for about 4-5 seconds, then died the same way. Tach now frozen at 1600 rpm, fuel gauge frozen at 2/5, fuel pump whirring, but no other signs of life. It's been two weeks since this happened, and the tach still reads 1600 rpm, and the fuel gauge still reads 2/5.
The battery is good. There is power to the relay under the hood that provides power to the ? (ECM?) under the hood, just in front of the power steering reservoir. There is no power at OBD2, therefore no way to connect VIDA. Dealer had the car for a week, and have no answers. Battery was disconnected and fuses were checked. They suggest a new car! All systems are functioning properly on the car other than this electronics issue, and I want to keep the car. Any thoughts as to what might be malfunctioning?

Anyone have any experience with Xemodex? They have a reasonable fee to test modules, and can transfer data to remanufactured modules if needed. Has anyone had any experience with them? Did everything work as expected?

Thanks, and stay well.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 05 Feb 2022, 16:26

I have had good experience with Xemodex. Their web site may have some basic trouble shooting tips for the modules. They do not seem to want to take your money and end up telling you it is good.
volvolugnut

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 05 Feb 2022, 17:26

imaV70Rdriver wrote: ↑05 Feb 2022, 15:28 Hi all, I also posted this on another site.

There are no functioning electronic systems on my 2004 V70R, M66. The only thing that works is the radio, and I can hear the fuel pump whirring when I turn the key, but no dash lights, hazards, power to windows, nor power to seats, and it will not crank. There are no signs of life when you insert and turn the key, other than the fuel pump. There is fuel at the valve on the engine.

The car died instantly while driving, luckily slowly in my neighborhood and not on the highway. The tach froze at 1900 rpm, the fuel gauge froze in place, and the car stopped dead in its tracks with a whooomph!

I removed all valuables (windows are open) and let it sit overnight where it was. In the morning, the tach had dropped to zero, and the fuel gauge was at rest. I turned the key and it cranked but didn't start the first time, but it did the second, for about 4-5 seconds, then died the same way. Tach now frozen at 1600 rpm, fuel gauge frozen at 2/5, fuel pump whirring, but no other signs of life. It's been two weeks since this happened, and the tach still reads 1600 rpm, and the fuel gauge still reads 2/5.
The battery is good. There is power to the relay under the hood that provides power to the ? (ECM?) under the hood, just in front of the power steering reservoir. There is no power at OBD2, therefore no way to connect VIDA. Dealer had the car for a week, and have no answers. Battery was disconnected and fuses were checked. They suggest a new car! All systems are functioning properly on the car other than this electronics issue, and I want to keep the car. Any thoughts as to what might be malfunctioning?

Anyone have any experience with Xemodex? They have a reasonable fee to test modules, and can transfer data to remanufactured modules if needed. Has anyone had any experience with them? Did everything work as expected?

Thanks, and stay well.

There are some 60A fuses in the engine compartment that protect groups of fuses. I'm wondering if there's a poor connection at one of these fuses. Based on what you've described works and what doesn't work fuse 11A/4, which protects fuses 11C 21-29, may have a problem. Not sure exactly where these fuses are located, maybe the underside of the engine compartment fuse box. With the number of things you're seeing without power I would suspect something like a major power distribution point like these 60A fuses.

60A fuses in engine compartment.pdf: (111.27 KiB) Downloaded 113 times

Post by **abscate** » 05 Feb 2022, 18:03

Start with the obd power. If there is no 12V on the pins (google the power pin assignment, it’s standard) trace it back to the battery to find the fault(s)

Post by **- Pete -** » 05 Feb 2022, 19:43

This strikes me as a CEM failure. As suggested read up on XemodeX website HERE . They describe symptoms of CEM in failure mode. There’s more than one place that rebuilds modules, so feel free to shop around. I’ve dealt with XemodeX several times and while they provide an excellent service, I do feel they are priced well beyond their competitors. They do perform services lightning fast, which sometimes is worth the extra coin they require.

A couple members/experts here also perform CEM services & may be worth contacting - Members Yagger & doublebug.
Website here and here.

It may be beneficial to have a discussion with Yagger to fully describe your symptoms. If you truly are in the Bay Area, he is not far from you (San Jose) & may end up being a life saver for your precious M66 VR.

If it ends up truly being a failed CEM, that dealership should be on the list of “places not to return to”.

I’m staying tuned.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Feb 2022, 07:07

Take all those symptoms like the fuel gauge. Tach, and stalling , put them into a box, and throw them into theBay.

The beauty of electrical troubleshooting is once you find where you should have 12 volts and you don’t, a $10 analog voltmeter will act as a FPS…a fault positioning service. Track backwards on wiring until you find where the 12 volts is, then track down the faults(s) in between.

It’s amazing how many people charge $150 an hour and can’t do this. They will happily send your money swapping $1000 components

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 06 Feb 2022, 09:39

abscate wrote: ↑06 Feb 2022, 07:07 Take all those symptoms like the fuel gauge. Tach, and stalling , put them into a box, and throw them into theBay.

The beauty of electrical troubleshooting is once you find where you should have 12 volts and you don’t, a $10 analog voltmeter will act as a FPS…a fault positioning service. Track backwards on wiring until you find where the 12 volts is, then track down the faults(s) in between.

It’s amazing how many people charge $150 an hour and can’t do this. They will happily send your money swapping $1000 components

One easy point to check for 12V is the OBDII connector, which was mentioned as not having power. The power to this port is not controlled by the CEM, it's directly from the 12V battery supply through a couple of fuses, 11A/4 (the 60A fuse in engine compartment) and 11C/23 passenger compartment 5A fuse. Just understanding why power is not getting to the OBDII connector is a good starting point and inexpensive too.

OBDII port power.pdf: (61.77 KiB) Downloaded 106 times

imaV70Rdriver · Post by **imaV70Rdriver** » 06 Feb 2022, 19:04

So I just spent the day at it. The battery as returned from the dealership read 2 volts. I swapped out another battery I had in the garage that read 12.2 volts, but it had been sitting there for nine months. Immediately upon connecting, the battery voltage dropped to 9.8 volts. I thought I had something to go on, but nothing was consistent. Every time I took a reading, I’d get a different value. Ended up that one lead on my multimeter wasn’t making proper contact in the socket of the meter, and it was hours of frustration before I figured that out. I’m just going to buy a new battery and multimeter tomorrow and try again. I’ll report back. There is power to OBDll. I’ll blame the multimeter. And the 60 amp fuses all drop to near zero ohms. There are four in my car.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Feb 2022, 20:26

I hate days like that.

Try getting the battery on a 6 amp or more charger for 24hours.

12.2 volts is a dead battery

S decent analog voltmeter is only $10 or so if you can’t fix yours

Post by **firstv70volvo** » 07 Feb 2022, 13:28

imaV70Rdriver wrote: ↑06 Feb 2022, 19:04 So I just spent the day at it. The battery as returned from the dealership read 2 volts. I swapped out another battery I had in the garage that read 12.2 volts, but it had been sitting there for nine months. Immediately upon connecting, the battery voltage dropped to 9.8 volts. I thought I had something to go on, but nothing was consistent. Every time I took a reading, I’d get a different value. Ended up that one lead on my multimeter wasn’t making proper contact in the socket of the meter, and it was hours of frustration before I figured that out. I’m just going to buy a new battery and multimeter tomorrow and try again. I’ll report back. There is power to OBDll. I’ll blame the multimeter. And the 60 amp fuses all drop to near zero ohms. There are four in my car.

As Abscate mentioned and even with a new battery it should go on a charger until fully charged, which can take some time. If you don't have a charger, get one because it's so important to start with a known good and fully charged battery. If you have power to the OBDII port now and didn't before then the problem is intermittent and that's also indicated by how the car suddenly died and then you being able to start the car at a later time for few seconds before it died again. A good battery is needed though to avoid another variable in all this.
Once you have the new (and fully charged) battery in the car then you'll have good starting point for troubleshooting the problem. Even though it could turn out to be the CEM as Pete mentioned it's best to start with and follow Abscate advice on testing for 12V where is should be and make sure it's not a 12V supply problem before swapping out expensive modules. The OBDII pin 16 12V check point is good because it will eliminate the CEM as the problem. No power to the OBDII 12V supply pin, even if intermittent is a problem and not due to the CEM. If you have the no crank problem again and all the other problems you mentioned check this pin again for 12V. If you have problems again try to note everything that is and isn't working, this will help determine the root cause of the problem.