Are old Volvos really that expensive to run/fix? Topic is solved

[scot850]

I am one of the folks on here that says there is never a cheap Volvo, let alone an older one. Even a $1000 car can cost you $2-3000 on top of that price to get to a stage 0 and nicely running and looking car.

The exception in my 2000 'R'. It's repair costs are legendary and continue to be so as the only car that I have ever owned that seems to be able to break in ways no other P80 has.

I bought a Toyota 4Runner as I was put off the XC90 (first gen 2003-15) as there seats are not great (naturally I have now discovered R-design seats.........) so bought the 4Runner as I was told they are indestructible and run forever, the gen 4 (03-09) also have very comfortable seats. Bought from a dealer 4 years ago, 1 owner and $6500 in servicing and repairs prior to purchase to bring the 'full' service history up to date!

Again I have bought a vehicle that breaks in many and expensive ways, almost getting as bad as my 'R'.

In 15,000km (it only has 175.000km on it) this V8 has broken several times and very expensive. The frustrating part is I pointed every one of these issues out to the Toyota dealer after purchasing it. First the XREAS fluid shock system blew out (all those compensating valves 'sweat' sir). Quoted $8500 CDN to fix. Cost less than half that as I already bought the parts from around the world for half the dealer prices (they are all OE parts). Then the front RH axle CV boot started to leak (it is just excess grease, not to worry sir. Next visit, you need a new axle sir, $1100 now it is out of warranty). Fortunately I had been ahead of them and had the dealer extend the warranty to a year so they just stuck new boots on the axle. Then the other front axle blew the CV boots. This time my buddy and I did them.

Now to the 'tick' from the engine. They all do that sir when cold. So it is not the famous cracked exhaust manifold then? No we checked it all is good (no it isn't). Repairing requires the engine coming out and 12 hours labor at a specialist as the manifold studs always break and need to be replaced. How much? $4000!!

This will be my only second Japanese vehicle and both have been unreliable and break (even the new Honda we had did).

I guess I will go back to Volvo again. Generally they are to me a known quantity (except the 'R'), and much cheaper to run!

Yes it is an old vehicle, but Toyotas are very reliable and never break..................Hm...........!

Neil.

[abscate]

On about a $5000 budget of acquisition and stage 0, you can drive a luxury car for 100-150k miles in the Volvo brand. That’s hard to beat

[Nevada1906]

It seems that with my particular combination of parts (854 chassis, S60R engine, V70 transmission), maintenance and upgrades all happen in $300 increments. It's shockingly consistent.

New clutch? $300.
PCV? $300.
Tires? $900.
Coil packs? $300.
Cam and crank sensors? $300.
Main studs? $300.
Head studs? $300.
Pistons and rods? $1,500.
Full gasket set? $300.

And for some reason, the car only likes Bosch or Volvo parts, particularly electronics.

The headache is, when I go to FCPEuro or IPD, I have to remember which year and model car the major part (engine, transmission, etc.) came out of.

[ThaddeusTheBold]

Parts for old Volvos are no more expensive than parts for old Toyotas, or old Hondas, or old Subarus, and a lot less than parts for old BMWs or old Porsches.

Old GMs and Fords cost an arm and a leg for parts and the car isn't worth fixing so it's good money after bad.

Cars cost money to fix. If the basic car is sound, then it's worth it. If it's an ugly, fragile heap of junk, it's not. Volvos are almost always worth it if they haven't been left to rust out. They are lovely cars.

I've owned more than 40 cars in my lifetime, all but 3 used. At this point I only buy Volvos, Toyotas, and Subarus. I might buy a Ford Pickup (don't need one though) or an old Mercedes Diesel (can't find one though), but other than that, meh.

[abscate]

Basic transportation costs $2000-2500 here today, before repairs.

I wish I could get Dirk to find me those $500 cars , for the same money you get a great driver at that money.

Evan has been great to me with his completely maintained project cars. I had to sink hours in but knowing that everything else was State zero meant no risk. Two of my ladies are rollingP80s in their next life! Thanks Counselor.

[Sveedy]

Don't know if I agree with old GM's and Fords ( or Mopar's ) costing an arm and a leg. There are so many after market parts suppliers for those American brands that I can find those parts at fairly reasonable prices. Parts for my '94 Cherokee ( 400+K miles ) are WAY less expensive than for my '96 Volvo. Having pretty much done the same work on both, I can safely say that the Volvo will end up costing apx 50% more in the end.

[ZionXIX]

I can tell you the "indestructible" part of 4 runners (former 3rd gen owner here) does have merit but good maintenance is still a must. It's the neglected and abused 4 runners that seem to keep going despite the situation. Tons of little stuff will break but those engine just keep starting every day. The brakes may not work, the AC may be intermittent, the window might be stuck halfway but mine never failed to start......until the engine computer died. Then she wouldn't start. 1 new junkyard ECM and she was back on the road. But this was In a tropical climate.

Keeping the volvos going vs keeping them in pristine condition are two very different annual budgets.

[manovlov]

The headache is, when I go to FCPEuro or IPD, I have to remember which year and model car the major part (engine, transmission, etc.) came out of.

I'm not necessarily the most objective because for me, the 850 is a passion car. That said, I bought mine for $1078.20. Completely original. Destined to be my last car. I only take original parts. One operation after the other. Ignition, spark plugs, timing, belts, brakes, discs, brake pads, all fluids, clutch (some people here remember...), 75€ for the SC 901.

Budget? Maybe $2200 in those prices. For the story, it's an 850 GLT 2.5 -20 valves from February 1995, and 99,500 miles...

I still have to replace the oil pan gaskets, the PCV, the driveshafts and probably for fun, I'll do the wheel bearings. After that, I'll do the electrical part, which is cooler, and I'll finish with the paint.

I'll miss the fog lights, the heated seats.

I never thought I could fix this car myself. And I caught myself on the highway last summer at 80, in the left lane, my foot barely on the accelerator, my wife in the front and my little wolves in the back snoring like Canadian woodsmen, all in almost monastic silence, with classical music playing in the background.

So, I accept all the criticisms, old car, expensive maintenance in a Volvo dealership (for those who choose this option), square look. Yes, yes, of course.

But what a car...

Sorry for these mishaps Neil.

My son is going to get his driving license before the summer. I think a small 480 will fit him like a glove...

[volvolugnut]

My approach to old (or just older) vehicle maintenance is a bit different than some. I try hard to keep the important road handling and safety issues repaired. These include tires, suspension, engine service, and lighting. Costs are generally kept reasonable by owning basic vehicles without extras like all wheel drive, adjustable suspension, and power accessories. In the last decade, I have upgraded to 2001 turbo charged V70 T5 and a 2001 Mercedes E320. Before this my daily drivers were 240 Volvos.
At times, I will not repair some functions on vehicles that to me are not worth the cost. These have included passenger window control by the passenger in the V70 and dash outside temperature display in the E320.
My 1977 Ford F350 is a major example of selective repair. The air conditioner does not work, the transmission leaks and will slip when it gets low, it has a huge dent in the side, until this spring it had no muffler, and is slowly rusting everywhere. I keep it repaired well enough to haul stuff and pull a trailer.
volvolugnut

[850 LPT]

Basic transportation costs $2000-2500 here today, before repairs.

I wish I could get Dirk to find me those $500 cars , for the same money you get a great driver at that money.

It seems that the days of finding deals like that are gone. I got lucky twice with the 850 and the S70. Both required the initial investments of bringing them up to snuff, but they are running great now and I will surely hang on to these.

Neil, I am sorry for all your pain. The trouble with your 4-Runner are a bit surprising to me, but I can certainly relate to your V70R experience. My 98' V70XC was very costly to maintain with a seemingly never ending hunger for pricey parts. You have to be very committed to keep a car like that, like you seem to be.