2001 V70 T5 Timing Belt/Water pump torque values? Topic is solved

[93SCMax]

Greetings. The T5 sprung a coolant leak and I believe I've traced it back to the water pump. Car is 21 YO with 157k miles so it's due. I ordered the Water pump/timing belt kit from IPD, and it's arrived. Reviewed this forum and some of the videos available and am about ready to start the replacement. I haven't found a source for the torque values for the components removed/replaced. Can someone help with the values or a link to where I can find them? Specifically need torque values for the crank pully (30mm and 4 bolts), water pump, tensioner and roller.

Also, any hints on burping the coolant after replacement, to avoid air pockets, or any other key hints on reassembly would be welcome.

Thank you.

[93SCMax]

Found the values from CN90 for an XC90. Assume they are good for a V70. Still need the torque value for the 30mm crank pulley...assuming I'll remove it so I can mark all three gears /belt properly.

Thank you.

[volvolugnut]

You do not have to remove the crank pulley. Search for many other comments on crank pulley and how to replace the belt. If you do remove, crank center bolt is 133 Ft-LB. The four crank pulley bolts are 18 Ft-Lb and should not be reused.

Burp the coolant by filling over flow tank and then squeezing top radiator hose to force air into the tank. Replace coolant as needed and repeat until you get no more air out. Run until hot and recheck coolant.
volvolugnut

[iamhives]

I did this job a couple of weeks ago also because the water pump was leaking (despite belt, pulleys etc being pretty new). It seemed like it was the gasket. The discussion thread is here:

viewtopic.php?t=99749

I didn't take the crank pully off (I couldn't get it off!) after advice here. It takes a bit of wiggling to get the belt around the bosses behind the pulley but its doable. I ended up breaking the plastic cover behind the crank (it was very brittle and hard to reposition). I also inquired about the water pump bolt torques since there seemed to be lots of different values out there and ended up using 13-15 ft/lb. This is all for a 2006 V70 NA.

[abscate]

There is an engine break on the tensioner, remember


Pulley torques
Install the oscillation damper. Tighten the center nut to 180 Nm . Use counterhold 999 5433 COUNTERHOLD See: Tools and Equipment\999 5433 Counterhold.
Remove the counterhold and install new screws. Tighten the screws to 25 Nm . Angle-tighten 30°

Water pump torques

Install:
a new gasket
a new pump.
Tighten the screws crosswise to 17 Nm (12.5 lb.ft) .



Tensioner torques

Tighten the timing belt:
There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
From engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to tighten the belt.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned clockwise to tension the belt.
turn the crankshaft clockwise carefully until the camshaft belt is tensioned. The belt should be tight between the intake camshaft pulley, idler pulley and crankshaft.
hold the center screw on the belt tensioner in position and turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner clockwise/anticlockwise, depending on the variant, until the tensioner's needle passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window.
Secure the eccentric and tighten the center screw to 20 Nm .
Check that the needle is in the correct position.

[93SCMax]

Thanks for the input. Very helpful. I really struggled with getting the new belt back on and the tension set properly. I referenced the various videos but kept having problems with the tensioning...too loose on the intake side. Finally got it sorted and centered. Added coolant this morning and warmed her up. No leaks and timed properly. I still have a problem though. I left the side cover off to double check the tensioner after warming her up. The tensioner arrow is now past the right (hot) tang. It was centered when torqued down. I'll let her get cold and then redo the tensioner. The procedure I followed was, 6mm position started at 11 o'clock, moved it counterclockwise to 7 o'clock, then to 6 o'clock, and back clockwise to 7 o'clock. As I tighten the 10mm bolt, the tensioner arrow wanted to move to the hot side, so I used the 6mm hex to hold it in place. Am I doing something wrong? It was centered cold but after warm-up, it's to the right of the right (hot) tang.

Thanks for any input.

[iamhives]

Since its a 2001 I assume its a tensioner than needs to be turned anticlclockwise to tigthen (not sure if T5 is different)?
As you tighten the tensioner with the 6mm you need to go past the desired setting position (based on the 'needle') and come back. If you overshoot the desired position (needle to far to the left) then you need to go all the way past again (to the right) and come back again. Maybe that is what you are trying to describe?

What brand of tensioner are you using - I have heard of people having this 'slipping' type of problem with lower quality tensioners. INA seem to be the most recommended brand. What torque are you using on the tensioner center bolt?

[93SCMax]

IPD kit uses the INA tensioner and roller...identical to what was removed. Removed parts are practically new, except the WP. 45K isn't much on these Volvo OEM parts, except 157k on the WP.

Per the videos I've watched, I seem to be overshooting (tensioner arrow), to the right, and coming back to the left to center...that's my 11 o'clock to 7 o'clock to 6 and then back to 7. For the arrow to go from right to left, and then back to right (center), the provided video directions wouldn't work.

10mm nut is snugged tight. 20 Nm isn't much and my torque wrench is really designed for much higher torques

[iamhives]

Sounds like you're doing everything right. I just did the job with an INA tensioner and didn't have this problem. The only difference is that my car is a 2006 NA so the tensioner is the newer type and therefore is turned the reverse direction to tension.

[abscate]

Set the tensioner straight up with a cold engine. In SC that will be right. It will move with a hot engine, that’s the whole point!

It is not a critical adjustment, per jimmy57,a Volvo guru.