You are preaching to the choir about the lack of space Krons! A quick question though. Have you ever had an unsecured zip tie wriggle loose and go flying in the bay? No I haven’t. The edges of the metal spring mechanism are sharp enough (or my Harbor Freight zip ties soft enough) that even with end...

BlackBart wrote: ↑21 Aug 2023, 11:00 Ohh, P1, huh. Not an 850 chassis. Is it the same as the V50 wagons then?

Aren't the block and cooling system going to be the same as a modern white block?

Later C70s are same chassis/drivetrain as C30/S40/V50. Wish those later C70s were P2 chassis.

I bought a 2008 C70 in January and in first 6 months of ownership replaced all the cooling hoses, thermostat + housing and the overflow tank. Being more than 10 years old it is good preventative maintenance. The reason is if you lose coolant while driving the position of the temp sensor can allow it...

xTremeTitan wrote: ↑26 Aug 2023, 04:31 @rebelman did you diagnose and rectify the problem? My Volvo V50 is also leaking oil all over the top of valve cover and the entire engine is full of oil.

From your other post, your engine is a diesel so completely different from the 2.4 petrol.

With that much oil I would use some contact cleaner and careful compressed air to clean everything up then leave engine cover off to closely monitor for leaks. If the engine crankcase is pressurized the PCV needs fixed, ideally you want to know what seals need replacing to do all the repair at once ...

The issue is likely your AC compressor clutch gap. Easy to diagnose and short term fix with some zip ties to effectively shim the gap a bit tighter. Easy to do on P1 chassis cars as the compressor can be accessed by pulling front right wheel. Thread on it here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/foru...

Seems the usual trade off is brightness vs longevity on halogens. After fighting led bulb failure warnings I went with Sylvania XtraVision for a little more longevity vs going up to Silverstars. Silverstar reviews seem to indicate they are a 12 month bulb.

I did flush the CHF202 in my convertible pump to help the seals out and looked pretty clean. You are right to be a bit concerned on the electronics as that would be the most costly repairs on these cars.

Timing belt should be ok then, unless cam seals are out then best to replace (along with water pump if not done with belt service).

Main thing on cleaning is avoid any water on electrical bits to prevent further issues. Best to use a contact cleaner safe for electrics and plastics.

Peppermint to the rescue: