+1 on the Volvo plugs and Zimmerman rotor, Akebono pad combo for brakes. Works well for me and I'm in a hilly area. For ATF, use the correct spec. fluid. Toyota ATF (of the proper spec) is compatible and way less expensive than the Volvo stuff. I would suggest a transmission drain and fill. You are ...

Re: Seats. The seating surfaces are leather, coated with a rubberized dye/paint. Other surfaces vinyl. Baby wipes with an old fashioned shoeshine action work a treat on the steering wheel. Magic eraser on the door panels, but not on any glossy surface. My "book" is called MVS. Never bought...

Probably clear it with my VIDA. If you're willing to drive to NW NJ, we can give it a try.

I've got the special lock ring tool if I don't return it because I don't need it.

Michelins generally give good tread life, but at the expense of traction. I have found with age/wear after about 30k miles the tread surface goes rock hard. They still have lots of tread depth but virtually no wet weather or snow traction thereafter, even if they might wear for another 20-30K miles....

Although a switch, I have referred to this as the "jack-in-the-box valve" in the past. Now you know why.

Which cylinder is dead? Move coil pack from a working cylinder and see if the misfire moves. I consider coil packs a 100k maintenance item, although many will run 'til failure.

So how about that? Your Volvo isn't dead after all. Just nicely broken in at that mileage.

Probably a little late for the original poster, but check the front coil springs. They are prone to failure (as in snapping). My one and only (so far) long distance tow was due to a snapped spring. ETM can also fail, but due mostly to dodgy wiring.

Soak the expletive out of it with Fluid Film sprayed from a rattle can. You could also use Woolwax, although I have never used it. Fluid film smells like sheep. Woolwax isn't supposed to have much odor.