In that case....i wouldn't install them.
You will need injectors with same Bosch numbers and color.
They may have higher or lower flow rate...different resistance....and engine would not run properly.

Ect sensor and it's relay MUST be oem.
If you bought aftermarket sensor and relay this is expected.
Also check wiring on a relay and ect sensor from wiring loom side.

How do you check the oil level?
The most accurate reading will be after the car sits overnight,on a flat surface and before starting the engine...of course.

Matty Moo adviced me to leave it unprotected,just to seal the case.
He says that it won't hurt pcb and added that later years abs/tracs modules didn't had silicone membrane on pcb.

He is an expert and i trust him on this.

Bosch 0 280 217 107

Don't forget to remove negative battery cable for 15-20 minutes in order to reset fuel trims.
You can disconnect it while you are working on Maf replacement.

That's because of LPG conversion. There is NO car in the world which doesn't get check engine light after lpg conversion...especially the engines with 5,6,8 or 12 cyl. More cylinders it have-harder the installation is and the price goes up with more cylinders. You have lpg evaporators for up to 90kw...

Half of little bulbs on the cluster are not working with key in posII.
CEL is among them...and that means that ecu is not getting power with key in pos.II.

Ignition switch MUST be replaced first since it is showing it's failure.

That would be your first step.

Still no CEL on pos.II.
Because the cluster is like that when car refuse to start is pointing towards bad ignition switch.

Battery terminals MUST be real tight or you are risking to fry some modules and alternator.

Fuel pump housing o-ring is 6€ from volvo dealer(around 5$). I bought 2 few months ago to have it for spare. If spark plugs are black and covered with carbon...car is overfueling. You should have fpr on fuel rail. So...check this out: -disconnect maf connector and remove vacuum line from fpr and cap...