This may save somebody a bunch of aggravation.... Once again I've had to repeat a repair due to using cheap aftermarket parts. When will I ever learn?!?! The replacements that I found on Amazon.com were so "favorably priced" that I couldn't pass it up. When I snapped the bargain sliders on...

I think I still have the bag they came in. If so I'll check the P/N on the label and get back.

Replacement throttle bodies don’t come cheap - no need to replace, at least not yet. Clean it with some spray carberator cleaner and a toothbrush. When spraying the carb cleaner try to hold the throttle body in an orientation that doesn’t allow the carb cleaner to run into the holes for the butterfl...

Sounds like you've got one heck of a leaking brake booster. Try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the booster and plug the hose. Then see if the problem persists. Be careful if you drive the car with the hose disconnected as you will have to apply MUCH MORE foot pressure on the pedal to stop.

I had a drivers window control switch (DDM) that misbehaved in somewhat the same manner - OK with the key at position 1 but acted up with the engine running. A replacement switch was the ticket.

You say you tried replacing the switch? Are you confident you installed a good one?

Your diagnosis sounds logical. However one thing stops me from saying “fan controller for sure”. You’re only getting 0.03 vdc at the purple wire. That sounds quite low (3/100). I don’t know what the expected voltage should be. Is there any chance you misread and it’s actually 0.3? One of two things ...

GlennG2759 wrote: ↑16 Sep 2019, 06:48 Just reading this post for future CA job.
Chrism, that 2 x 4/ chain method sounds good and pressing down with a knee or foot, would eliminate the need for a second set of hands.

Yep, you got the picture, GlennG.

You can try the sight below for a used parts search. Sorting results by distance from your zip code will possibly find what you need without having to deal with shipping:

http://car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

Your logic makes sense. Especially when either one of the cam sensors throw a code AFTER the crank sensor code appears. I vote for fixing the p0337 first, then see what happens with the cam sensor faults.

The circuit board part number is one thing but it’s the stickers on the back side of the DIM that determine the compatibility. Since it sounds as though the OP has just a spare board without the rest of the DIM then it stands to reason that he wouldn’t know if it’s a compatible board without stickin...