Thew other option that is regularly brought up is to just get rid of the oil cooler and replace with a blanking plate below the crank pulley. If you do replace the pipes, then make sure to use new 'O'-rings. At the bottom end at the engine, make sure the repair shop cleans the seating area carefully...

Wrong forum, I know, but I miss you guys, yes specifically P80. I spent six weeks providing 24/7 care for a family member, then got a month at home where I wrestled some necessary repairs on the rusty 2000 V70 Geronimo which my girlfriend is relying on. Now I'm back providing care again, likely for ...

At least if using a silicone hose, it's not possible to install the upper turbo coolant hose with just your hands. Robert alludes to the technique in his video, but doesn't show it. First, slide the hose onto the reservoir pipe as far as it will go. Then, put the tip of a flathead screwdriver into t...

Did you performed a voltage drop test? That will tell you everything you need to know. I assume that you checked battery voltage on battery terminals. When car starts to act up again...measure voltage output on battery terminals and also directly on alternator(+ on b+ and - on alternator housing). I...

First car show of the year at the Riverside Museum. Mine is outside near the centre of the window... Riverside Museum Car Show.jpeg The sun shone all day so when I returned home I decided to get the other car out to allow me to clean the winter aftermath off the garage floor. 2x Estatesa.jpg Upthesi...

Before I purchased my 850 the previous owner had fitted white side markers. IMO they look naff so one of the first things I did was replace them with the original amber lights which were supplied with the car

red - fire

cleaning the filler neck and switching fuel caps did the trick. Over 1000 miles and still no fuel odor.

I would bite the bullet on that OE one Jreed. Rubber is a place where the cost cutting comes back to boil you over.

Volvo rubber seems to last 20 years plus and those turbo hoses are getting baked

To answer your post question, no. As long as you have clean copper, good quality 60/40 rosin core solder ( I prefer a smaller diameter, like .031" ) and can handle a soldering iron, this should be a non-issue. The shrink goes on first! Ask me how I know... Try to to use a good quality, dual-wal...