I think you have to pull the hub and then pull the axle through the assembly.

Have you had the idler pulleys replaced? If not, I would not run that engine until you do. When those go it’s a bad day.

Check the upper torque mount for side to side play. When they get loose, they rattle and it gives that metallic sound. The 40 dollar hutchinson from FCP is the volvo one with the volvo part number ground off.

If they over torqued that lug, chances are they also did the others... if it was recent, have them replace the hub(s). If not, I wouldn’t mess around with it and just get it replaced.

Run away.... the fuel filter take about 10 mins to replace and is no more than 40 bucks. The one way clutch is on the R.E.A.D assembly. If it wasn’t spinning you would not have power steering or water pump. The alternator is on the opposite side under the intake and is driven by a direct coupler bel...

The lower mileage V8s are becoming a rarity so someone will pay that price. I bought my 2010 2 years ago with 45k on the clock and it was 19k. I have put 60k on it without issue.

You could try holding the socket externally with a pair of vice grips and get the Allen wrench through the top.

try using a blowdryer or heat gun to heat it up and then rub over it with ice cubes. or a can of compressed air (upside down) to freeze it.

I have a 2010 v8 and just put an AGM H8 in. So far so good. I went through two diehards in two years. I know the charging system had changed over the years so I am not sure if the two are apples to apples. Last night I did a double feature at a Drive-In so the radio was on for almost 4 hours. The lo...

Loosen the barrel until the cable is loose and the stub is pulled back in. Tighten the barrel back up and put the clip in place (the teeth ratchet out while tightened down). remember to push the pedal down 3 or 4 clicks (to allow for slack after the tightening is completed). Once the barrel is reset...