Also replace the Schraeder valve. These have a small o-ring that rots with time and leaks. At this age I'd replace it when you get the system recharged. I agree with Misha on this that the likely culprit is the evaporator. If you pull the resistor pack out and use either a mirror on a stick and some...

It’s the magic of oil pressure. In a manual you move gears mechanically, in an automatic the gears stay meshed , but they freewheel unless oil (ATF) pressure forces a series of clutches into contact, and thus the gears transfer power from engine to wheels. The torque converter is a two fans thst fac...

I do think you should not be concerned and these symptoms will clear up with the rest of your work. The white sludge on the dipstick is completely normal in the winter if the car doesn't get up to running temps for long periods of time. My cars get it, too. You'll probably have some white goop even ...

Hi All, 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon - ECC type electronic heating cooling system. Not sure if the same on the manual type controls. I know this is a really old thread but I thought I might offer some options on stuck flapper doors on the floor and defrost flaps being stuck in the down position with n...

The heated rear seats are rare, I'd buy them right away if you were in Europe. If you have the time, pull at least the wiring harness, switches and possibly the heater mats. The center console is easy to get out. If you own one of these, I'd keep body panels, doors, headlights, taillights and alot ...

My first car was a 740. The heat never worked but the heated seats still did. A little to well you’d have to crack the sunroof to regulate the temp in winter. Looking at some other older threads some people claim that the wiring should be there under the seats. At least on the passenger side it look...

Thank you for the writeup. Photos would have been a bonus, but below freezing are not the conditions to grab a phone with frozen fingers while trying to restore heating. I think deteriorating foam around the flaps and too little usage are the combination to get the flaps stuck. These are the proble...

AC on my 850 is similar, slow leak, worn clutch, and not working great. I did take a peek at the evap, and it looks like something out of a horror movie. So needs to go, condenser also needs replacement, looks very worn. Need to replace the clutch at least. Dryer is rusted badly. Lots of work to do....

There is a little blue relay next to the power stage... shown near the center of the photo below -- that would be worth checking to make sure it's seated correctly and working OK.

I'd also say it is not worth the effort and money. Agree on not getting used ones.
Normal shocks are absolutely fine, and for sure better than old&used nivomats.

No idea on the differences, mine were blue (also FWD) but no markings on them. Threw them away, were heavily rusted and beyond saving.