You should download VIDA if you can. Here is an online workshop manual; it's a little fiddly, but may help some; click off the pop-up on the body of the page underneath or share, donate or whatever to make it go away https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90_awd/v8-4.4l_vin_85_b8444s/steering_and_susp...

- Hi Pretribrapper, Find something like the color paint / paste used on the crash dummies during the Crash Tests of cars and spread a THIN film around the metal part of the door frame where you think the leak is coming from. Gently close the door till it click / latch. Open to see where there is lit...

May try compare the new belt with the broken one, otherwise look at each pulley to make sure the belt sits correctly centered on the pulley

When I did mine, it kept getting hung up near the crank pulley, I had to remove the wheel and fit it there first. It’s easy for it to “feel” ok if not on correctly.

In the standard code format P28 would be transmission, 6D would be the specific fault.

Tools from Amazon didn't work well for us. Kept slipping out. The KONI struts also had a thick coat of paint so still difficult. It would be best to make that tool he is using.
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I had the knuckle off and beat mine in from the bottom.

I used a bottle jack and a block of wood to slowly jack upwards while tapping on the knuckle with a mallet.

Most possible solution is new key.
Most likely your original key lost synchronization to CEM. It is common issue for 2008-2009 P1 platform.

. Check the T / Y tube. There are two different ones depending on whether it's an auto or manual transmission. The plastic T or Y connection joint acts as a pressure clamp so when it cracks there will be a slow leak without obvious signs. It also bury in the middle of engine so you can't see the hos...