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The shifter interlock system is also connected by a small cable to the ignition switch's steering lock mechanism. IIRC, the key needs to be in at least position 1 for any method of releasing the shifter to operate. That cable can become stretched over time and may need to be tightened, The adjustmen...

What year is this C70?

There are a lot of things that can cause problems like this between the accessory items in the car and your alternator. Cables, connectors, bad fuse sockets, etc. Especially in an area where they have a lot of salt or other corrosives around for snow and ice melting. Before you go down that road, ha...

Hmmmm...
Legal drinking age in Alaska used to be 19...

Happy MVS-Day!

It was actually an eBay deal.
Shop hard - Shop Everywhere.

Nokian Hakkapeliittas FTW!

Found some Hakka 8’s in 205/55-16’s
last fall for less than $100 each.
Nothing grabs ice better!
At least legally...

There are a couple of pass throughs in
the firewall near the steering column.

+1 on the XC90 spring seats.
And spend the money on OEM,
not the cheap stuff. The less
expensive seats do not last.

+1 on pulling the panel and getting into the door. This is a great opportunity troubleshoot by isolating. While you have the door panel off, it’s really easy to bypass all the the possible failure points between the battery and the window motor. Once you’re sure that it’s mechanically sound and the ...

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Sep 08, 2020 4:40 am Needs both fuse and chafe relief.

Perhaps in the form of improved cable routing.

I have a safety related question.
Is there a fuse at the battery end of that large red wire?
Sooner or later, the threads it's rubbing against will short it
to ground, and after the fire, struts will no longer be an issue.
Just sayin'...

You'll get better results posting in the right section for your XC90:
viewforum.php?f=10

Here's the x70 version if it helps:

IIRC, the red door lights and the domelight system have separate switches.

IIRC, the red door lights and the domelight system have separate switches.

Antenna.

luckykolo wrote: ↑Tue Aug 25, 2020 4:13 pm Anyone has actually measured the voltage at the warming pad on the mirrors? Is it 12V? Thanks

Yes - 12 volts.

Why do I have a sudden craving for Swedish meatballs ... ?

I haven’t got one of those, but I’m an AWD guy.
I noticed two PNs for this based on FWD/AWD.
That could account for a difference.

Any FWDer’s out there have the Tube Style Protector?

Mounts behind the plastic shield.
Have a look at the catalog pic.

That's why I never ride in back!

Be sure that they know that you only
need a basic, unchipped key. Some
dealership order writers don’t even
know that they exist without a chip.

It’s probably worth calling around to
local locksmiths for a quote, as well.

Judging by the lack of paint on the
bottoms of the tubes on mine, I’m
thinking that it probably paid for
itself a long time ago!

Yes. Pop the stock HU out and you’ll see them
right at the mid point on both sides of the cavity.

Volvo offered a pretty stout one made of steel tubing.
Check page 6.100:
https://accessories.volvocars.com/Legac ... _NL_DE.pdf

As you are in Sweden, it may be your security system.
Does this car have a chipped key?

Roger that on the Blue.
I went with a newer egg-crate
and liked it so much, I went with
Blue wheel centers, too! Good Look...

Keep in mind, the ‘98 had the older black “square” logo like 850’s.
‘99-‘00 got the newer blue badge that’s a slighty different shape.

IIRC, there was an improvement in the changer mechanism, but the thing that I was after was the “hidden menu” that gave access to a user tunable EQ. Setting the custom equalizer (Custom EQ) - SC-901 only · Select "Custom EQ" by switching off the radio, holding down preset button 2 and switching the ...

IIRC, there was an improvement in the changer mechanism, but the thing that I was after was the “hidden menu” that gave access to a user tunable EQ. Setting the custom equalizer (Custom EQ) - SC-901 only · Select "Custom EQ" by switching off the radio, holding down preset button 2 and switching the ...

That’s a really good question.

Check with Safelite. They ware able to get a real Pilkington for me and the installation was very well done. Even left a bottle of “Safelite” water, a full can of their foaming glass cleaner and cleaned every piece of glass in the car. Most importantly, the OEM Pilkington glass is a designed compone...

I believe that it’s the IR sensor
for the optional remote control.

For the t-stat housing?
Hit’em PB Blaster and walk away.
Give it at least a day.
During that wait time,
get the EXTRA long
torx bit for those bolts.
Cheap insurance!

Most people have problems getting a window up, so count yourself lucky! ( And always carry a spare trash bag and some painter’s tape, just in case...) Not getting it to roll down is usually caused by the same issue - Poor Switch Contacts. Power reaches all of the windows by way of the master switch ...

Dynaudio FTW!
And maybe a sub...
A good sub always helps.

Check and clean the Pro logic decoder connector on the back of the SC-901 head. The decoder is a separate unit. It is not built into the head. While you are at it do the same for the connector to the Amp. +1 Pop the radio out and unplug then reseat the Dolby DIN connector a couple of times. Hopeful...

Is the tail light blinker on the driver’s side working?
I would expect a fast blink, but if it’s flashing, your
hazard switch is probably OK.

Thought you might have been changing the tail directional.
That one is a little unusual...

The problem started off sounding like a grounding issue,
but if it quit completely, be sure that the socket and contacts
are nice and clean. From there, start chasing the wiring back
to the firewall.

Wrong replacement lamp?

Get into the sub-menus, yet?

You’re going to love this system.
Then you’ll want a sub...

A little more on this topic:

viewtopic.php?t=30204

dad2three wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 5:35 pm When it is all hooked up the 10 pin harness from the car is not used, correct?

Good News!
That’s where the outboard amp ties back into your 4 corners of speakers,
so you’re day is gonna get a whole lot better when you plug it in.

If it’s just pigtails with contacts, they can be robbed
from other connectors. Even some car audio adapter
sets. Just snag a Metra set and de-pin what you need.

They have to be out there. maybe cut down a connector with a higher pin count? If nothing else, pins from other connectors should fit. Just remove them from another shell. A little heatshrink, fold it back and ty-wrap it off to the acc conn harness and you have a pretty solid and reversible connecti...

If it were me, I’d use 2 to trigger a relay
that supplies power from constant, then
fuse the relay’s output. Value? Dealer’s
choice, but 15 would be fine.

X-Overload is your switched output.
It's probably a good idea to use it to
energize a relay to pick up constant.

Probably also a good plan to fuse everything.

I think a motion sensor camera will have trouble 'seeing' through the glass. volvolugnut Not problem - Motion sensing detects pixel changes in the video frame. IR, however, is worth considering as a possible issue with glass. It can bounce off of the glass and back into the lens and blind the camer...

Check out something less conspicuous than dash cams.
Hit eBay - Search Spy Cams. Tons of options.
Then get a dash cam, too, as a visible deterrent/decoy.

If you don’t need to unlock the steering or transmission, this is pretty easy. Remove the steering column shroud and the electrical side of the ignition switch is right there on the left side. Only a few screws attach it to the column. Once the electrical portion is removed, a screwdriver will do th...

More than likely, your rear left turn signal is out.
If that’s the case, replace the lamp.

Dumb question - Are you sure it’s the CEL?

This sounds like exactly what happens when
you get low on windshield washer fluid.
If I catch it out of the corner of my eye,
sometimes it tricks me...

There are images and walk throughs about
all of the actuators around here someplace...
At work right now, but I’ll look this weekend.

Winter is Coming...

( OK - May not still be a thing.
I skipped season 8 anyway).

Should be the dash vents only, IIRC. Probably a bad flap actuator/linkage/flapper or it isn’t getting the correct command from the ECC. How does it do with the other air output directions? Do both temp dials/flappers get results? How about the recirc function? If all of the other actuators/ flaps re...

Dumb question - Are the vent roller wheels on each dash vent open?

If your trim is still in good shape,
PlastiDip may be an option.
Maybe powdercoat?
Just get new clips,
and off ya go.

There are a wide variety of inline fuseholders available
Local shops, Amazon, eBay, etc.

YES !


Absolutely, positively YES!

Add a Fuse at the battery!!!

If the wires short to ground between the amp
and the battery, they will Catch On Fire ...

There are fewer P80s in the world everyday.
It would be a shame to burn yours up.

One other thing to look at while you have a meter out is the thermal fuse.
It's the small cylinder with a cone shaped nose on one end on the
resistor pack. If it's OK, it should show continuity.
. .

Good News - Your car doesn't have any relays or shunts between the PNP switch and the reverse lamps. The 2000 70 series cars were pretty simple and don't have any goofy stuff like a Central Electric Module. You turn the key, the relay that provides power to accessories ( 2/6 ) energizes and makes po...

Was the car ever set up to tow?

Maybe this will help?

Have you unplugged the motor and
applied battery voltage directly to it?

That will bypass all the other stuff and
at least give you an idea of what kind of
shape the motor is in.

Speeds1-3 on MCC run through the fan speed switch
and then through the selected resistor in the resistor-pack.

When you flip into the speed 4 position, a relay next to the
blower motor bypasses all of that and provides a direct set
of relay contacts for “Full Speed, no resistors at all” operation.

The problem is, Gravity. There are just too many areas that you can't reach when it's installed and in one piece. Getting it really clean means getting it out so that you can knock out any big stuff and clean it out on a bench. And if it's taken any spills, that's really the only way to get all of t...

Remove it, take it apart and clean very gently.
Even better, see if you can find a cleaner one,
clean and prep it, then just replace the old one.

I’d keep harsh solvents like WD away from it.

Mine has had a color matched hand towel draped
over it for about 15 years, now. Better safe than messy!

radek93 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 12:48 am In datashets ignition timing BTDC is for 850 rpm 6°+-2. Why I have on 840rpm 9-11°. Some times show 8° but only on sec. What is wrong? Knock sensor? I drive on 95 octane bp (if is true) and LPG.

Is this a US spec car?

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 2:46 am He has a 1998 S70, Distributor not coil packs.

Still picks up timing from the same point and feeds the ECU, doesn’t it?

You haven’t been hangin’ any hot corners, have you?
Any kids that drive this car? Just checking.
Not that I would have any idea what
that kinda tire wear would look like...

Just asking for a friend.

If there’s room, sometimes a box end wrench
the same size as the bit can work in tight spots.

Here’s one more link to a post containing
accessory connector info and diagrams:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78615&hilit=accessory+connector

Possibility #4 - Are you getting any ABS warning lights?
( Just to make sure, does the ABS warning light come on
in self check mode just before you crank the engine over? )

There’s a factory power point for accessories clipped to
the steering column that gives you access to a number of
different feeds. Just for aftermarket gadgets. Very thoughtful.

There are plenty of posts about it here. If no one
beats me to it, I’ll throw up some info this evening.

It should draw nada at rest. Killing the battery
won’t be a problem, but I like the idea of securing
the remote in an unattanded car. I ran a line to
the accessory connector and picked up ign there.

Best of Luck!

Here's the other page that goes with the wiring diagram above.
It looks like the hot lead is pin 1 on the visor. I hope this helps!

FWIW, I did a little digging around on the Volvo site and confirmed by going though spec sheets and press releases that the S70 was only available in AWD in 1999 and 2000. https://volvo.custhelp.com/app/manuals/OwnersManual/om_id/958 I just had in my mind the the ‘99 was the prime year for AWD becau...

I’m highly doubtful. AFAIK, the AWD S70 was only offered in
North America in 1999. The exhaust is all wrong and it’s not
badged as an AWD. IMHO, I give it a “Not Plausible”.

OK, and how can we read the codes? It just tells us there is an error. If you’re asking in regards to the 2001 S80 indicated in your profile signature, you’ll get much more relevent responses in the S80 section of MVS: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=11 This is the forum ar...

US models usually just have a single horn mounted high on the center of the firewall. Just a plain old round horn - Not electronic, no battery, just a two wire plug. What often happens to them is that the center nut loosens, falls off and the horn’s metal disc diaphram disappears... Plenty more in t...

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 7:31 pm HoRRible tRend staRted

Started like 20 years back on V70R.com !
I miss the old days when Doug still ran that site...

Thank the Norse Gods for MVS.

Too bad that Jim (JRL) is out of the P80 flipping business.
That's a pretty car! What's the mileage on that beauty?

Using 2 new studded tires in the front and ordinary tires on the rear axle is really dangerous. The tires with the best traction should ALWAYS be at the rear, whether the car is fwd or rwd doesn't matter. The ability to get traction on a ice road at low speeds is probably better having the studded ...

Search "lock motor PTC".
That should get you started.

I know a bad relay can cause a bad pump - so whenever your pump goes, swap the relay too to be safe.. I wonder if a bad pump can kill a relay? I wouldn't be suprised I'm not sure that I understand your logic. The relay is just a switch that turns the pump power on and off when the ECC tells it to. ...

Each door lock motor has a small protection device. As designed, if the motor should draw too much current and begin to overheat ( for instance, because of a stuck switch ), the device opens the circuit to the motor to keep it from melting down or damaging switch or relays contacts in the system. As...

IIRC, Clearwater is a good resource for white block head rebuilding.

A solid 10 -amp battery charger in the garage or in your local club inventory is pretty mandatory in the cold climates During the winter, a lot of folks around here have moved on from battery blankets and plate heaters to onboard maintenance chargers. Most ship with a hardwire adapter for battery t...

Seems to me that a lot of owners are looking for a new driver’s skin, but the passenger seat is still looking good. How many P80s get scrapped with perfect or near perfect passenger seats? Now... How often does that happen in right hand drive countries? Seems like we might consider the advancment of...

If they put these back out on the market at a
reasonable price, I’ll bet they’d sell boatloads!

Where to start... Well built. Comfortable. Seat Heaters. Great stereo in the R. Also love the AWD on ice. No slouch on the highway. Fellow enthusiasts! -30 today and I enjoyed a toasty ride home. Did I mention the seat heaters? Real switches, knobs and dials! Very little networking. Actual throttle ...

Forgot to update: returned to junkyard the following Monday and pulled the recieving unit from the 95 850. Got a new battery for the transmitter from the dollar store. Hooked up in '96, followed the advice from members here and its been working ever since. Many thanks. Happy new year! +1000 MVS poi...

FWIW, I thought I had a cat rattle that turned out to be gravel
trapped between the heat shield and the cat. I blew it all out
with a little piece of hose on the end of a blowout nozzle.
Kind of a pain, but now it's quiet as a church mouse.

I know there is a certain sequence of ignition turns and button presses that will enable me to do this myself That works for some cars up to and including model year 1998. 1999 and onward requires VIDA, a software download and a pin number. Your options are Volvo dealer, Independent Volvo shop or a...

I have one of those for each rig. They aren’t a DVM on the alt output, but they give you a quick snap shot of the voltage from the distribution block. And ya need to charge stuff anyway... :mrgreen: AFA the cabling, with heavy salt, there can absolutely be a lot of nasty business going on under the ...

There’s a small opening on the bottom of the filler spout that detects fuel when it gets high enough and automatically releases the handle latch. Sometimes, pulling the nozzle back out of the car’s filler neck just a little will prevent this feature from shutting off the fuel pump’s valve prematurel...

If you drive in a lot of salt,
definitely check ALL positive
cables, ground straps and
their connections.

+1 for 21” x 2.

Step 1 - Ask your question here:
viewforum.php?f=25

IDK about 850’s, but there’s a mounting hole under
the Volvo badge on ‘98-‘00 70 series cars. Volvo
started shipping with a side repeater in those
fenders for ‘99-‘00. Available in JYs everywhere!

That looks pretty cool!

Sounds like you need to replace both the relay and socket.
You may also have a worn blower motor issue that caused
your relay/socket problem. How old is that motor?

Glad you fixed it, but Language, please.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the yellow wire may not be stock.
Does this car have an aftermarket stereo, or any sign that it used to?

Pardon my French, but Salt Sucks!

As pointed out above, those all share an automatically resetting, thermally tripped circuit breaker. ( Volvo calls it an Automatic Fuse. You'll need to remove the four torx screws on the top of the fuse box cover near the windshield to remove it and access the circuit breakers and relays in that par...

FredM1960 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:55 am Hi,

I have also sub-woofers in my C70, are they still in use with this "upgrade"?
Thanks!

If they're the factory subs in the seat backs, yes.
They run off of the big amp in the back as well.

That's not an antenna or any part of the fob receiver. It's just a status LED for the alarm and a solar sensor for the ECC. You should already have central locks and maybe even the dash mounted lock unlock switch. IIRC, you need to add the 5-pin fob receiver module that mounts above the passenger-si...

If the reflectors aren’t mirror shiny any more, start researching.
There are plenty of great posts here about 70 series headlights.
The “jewel” versions from later P80 C70’s get rave reviews
and will bolt right up. Check out OEM and Depo options.

It’s good to hear that they owned the issue and took care of you.
In this day and age, that’s something we could all use a lot more of!

This sounds almost like the main amp going into protection mode. It may be too much of a speaker load if they aren’t wired correctly, a problem caused by a previous owner trying to modify the system or the amp may just be on it’s way out... I’d think about disconnecting the 4 outputs of the main amp...

Just wondering if the bulbs are out.
Are you seeing the ABS and TRACS lights at prestart?

And they’re gone...
Amazon giveth, Amazon selleth away.

Just came across this:

https://www.amazon.com/Nokian-Hakkapeli ... 41&sr=8-17

Outrageously Good Price!
They’ll turn your P80 into an
Angry Little Badger.

They sold you the wrong tires. End of story.
Any decent shop would have the right size info.
( Heck, it’s physically printed on your gas lid! )

I’d go back with a friendly, but firm attitude and
get the right tires on your car. Best of Luck!

I've always been a Haynes fan, but IMHO
Volvo has the better wiring diagrams...

I have a funny feeling that one of those is a ground strap...

That looks a factory applied conformal coating.
If you take a closer look, it’s been used around
surface mounted capacitors and resistors.
It’s used as protective layer.

Which fuse, exactly?

A small cirle of heavy, clear packing
tape until you get your new lens.
Then cover them with 3M Xpel.

From the land of rocks and pebbles...

If the negative terminal of the
battery is disconnected, it doesn’t
matter if the wrench on ANY positive
connection hits anything anywhere.
No negative still means no power flow.

That’s why you always make negative
first to disconnect, last to connect.

There are two points of protection for the sunroof. The “control” fuse in location 35 that also supplies dash and ashtray illumination and one of the leads on the accessory connector. Do your dash lights work? Is anything connected to the accessory connector under the dash, next to the steering colu...

I’ve read about a couple 850 owners that have
installed the OE 70 series surround system.

If you’re comfortable modifying an 850 dash
for the center channel speaker, everything
else is plug and play. AFAIK, no OE center
channel dash was ever offered by Volvo.

callahanoffroad wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 8:06 am Quick question,

What does the yellow wire connect to? Is it a ground?

Constant Power .
If you have the original DIN signal cable to the HU,
you should also have a 2 pin factory power cable
taped and stowed with it back there, too.

The idiot light for the alternator is pretty simple
and doesn’t generally trip any codes in
the OBD2 computer.
May have been a bad battery, a poor cable connection
or possibly the first signs of a charging
system issue. Keep Driving!

If you don’t see an idiot light when
you first turn the key, but haven’t
started the car yet, the lamp’s inop.
For whatever reason.

I understand that these are general charging system questions, but the electrical system differences between P80 Volvos that went out of production in 2000 and cars like your 2004 P2 V70 are night and day. You might get more relevant assistance from the P2 crowd. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...

Finally got a minute to review the diagrams. There are only 4 wires to worry about here: Seat Power 12 VDC (+) is Green/Red protected by an auto reset thermal circuit breaker in position 11C/39 - Amps Unknown... ( Anybody have the cover off their fusebox that can have a look? ) Ground is the black w...

It’s NOT electric. At All. Honest. Think of a shotgun shell with a remote primer. The “actuator” cartridge is the “primer” and it connects to the powder charge in the “shell” by way of the hollow tube between them. The bag is the the “shot” in the shell. Side impact triggers the “primer” and Blamo!

I’m thinking LONG stick.
And somebody shooting video.
Ya know, for insurance purposes...

The little round unit I’m talking about is a charge encased in a flying saucer shaped can on the outer SIDE of the seat. IIRC, it’s an inch or two in diameter and maybe an inch thick. The safety clip should be attached to the inside of the cover panel and it slides betwen the actuater and the seat f...

....?
Are you talking about the motors inside the seat frame?
No connection at all with the bags. They just move the seat.

FWIW - The SIPS bag on a ‘98 seat is mechanical.
Be REALLY careful when you pull the side cover
with the switches. You’ll find an orange clip inside
that cover that will lock out the round mechanical
actuator under there. Not sure how to safely disable it...

+1 for Checking the turbo hoses.
You may be a 7mm nutdriver away
from a running car!

The reason that you see voltage on on the small wire is because it’s feeding from the ignition switch through the idiot light in the dash. When the alternator is not turning, it shows the small wire a ground and that’s why the idiot light comes on in “ lamp test” mode when you turn on the key, but h...

Have a look:

The alternator has three connections Positive Exciter wire Ground There is no reason for it to be in the car for a test I don’t understand why they can’t test it Because it says VOLVO... :roll: But seriously, IIRC, this alternator is a lot like a GM “one-wire” in that it has an onboard VR. The smal...

Don’t forget your accessory overload relays.
They are a choke point in the power distribution
system that can be a central point of failure.

Check engine light is not on because of a recent, or otherwise oil change. Have a shop, or parts place Autozone, etc. run the codes. Go from there. Otherwise, advice provided thus far is a starting point. To clarify, there are two lights that often get mistaken for each other. There's a Check Engin...

Service light is just that. It’s triggered by
your odometer to remaind you to change,
your oil, etc. Should be an easy reset on
an 850. Dig around the site a little.

abscate wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:09 pm Recirculating damper door motor also lives back there. That can cycle itself in some modes

My money is on this!

Is your Check Engine light on?
Have you scanned for codes?
Checked fuel and spark?

Been meaning to do it myself - Have fun!

125K is just a teenager for one of these cars!
It's just beginning it's life.

If the inner-structure below the fender and the
A-pillar are alright, a door and a bumper would
just bolt on. Get the same color and it's a quick
easy fix and another P80 lives on.

Where do you want to install it? The original location in the C's is way in back. Some have put it under the passenger seat, but the OEM cable would be really long for that. It's really just an Alpine V12 amp with a 6 pin DIN for the input and remote turn on instead of RCA's and a blue wire. All you...

Yes - There's a fuel pump access plate, but - As the P80 was originally FWD only, and the AWDs have a dual pump system and a saddle tank to provide clearance for the rear drive shaft, the AWD pumps are in different spots. and it's pretty much useless. I haven't had the pleasure of dropping the rear ...

Is the harness to the radio still factory stock and unmolested?
If it's been spliced, cut or otherwise tampered with, the radio
may be seeing a signal that an optional phone is active.

How are you connecting the cables?
Please post a picture to illustrate the procedure.

Does it run for a fraction of a second, then quit?

Both are printed on the side glass. IIRC, primary on the
driver’s ( big ) and secondary on the passengers. Again,
just be sure that the RF amps are getting juice.

And the SC’s were all produced by Alpine.

Both of the antennas in the rear side glass use power amps. Since your new unit probably doesn’t support dual antenna diversity tuning like the Alpine/OEM unit, the big one will do. Just make sure that you connect the power antenna connection from the adapter harness to the mating output on the new ...

Your 2008 C70 is a fish out of water in this forum section
for our older Volvos - Far too modern for us simple P80 folk!

You’ll get much better information from this area of MVS:
viewforum.php?f=25

Best of Luck!

Keep reading:

Every Volvo Will Get In-Car Cameras to Combat Distraction and Drunk Driving

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a2689 ... k-driving/

Have you tried releasing the door side latch lever manually?
Get a large screwdriver behind the latch lever and give
the lever a nudge open while operating the door handle.
Unless the latch mechanism is really messed up, it’ll open.

May just be a dirty PNP switch.
Have you tried rowing the shifter?

There's a lot of features I like on Teslas, but a really slick one is "sentry mode". Some or all of its many cameras are always recording and save the video when there's motion or the car gets jostled when parked. What a great idea, and I hope dash cams start doing that. Already a feature on a lot ...

Instead of an SPST switch, use an SPDT.

Connect the common contact to the radio
ign and the batt and harness ign to the two
switched contacts of the switch.

That way, the ign lead from the harness is
disconnected from power when you flip to
batt and there’s no backfeed up the harness.

$55 for a non-chipped key? Seems pretty high.
I'd call around for some better pricing...

The new keys do not have a chip. The old chip is taped to the back side of the antenna ring directly over the pin connector. I tried to start car without having the old key in the car. The first time it started but immediately shut off like in a second since then it will not start. I don't see any ...

Ah. The key has to be in the ignition, even if you arent using it to turn the electrical part. This car (starting in 1999) sniffs for the key and it will start and shut off the engine in 2 seconds if they key isnt found. After that, it will just crank without firing. OP has a '98. ( With a Throttle...

That’s not really what I meant - I was asking for pics of Yours. I don’t understand what you mean is loose. These panels are securely fastened with screws. Unless you have the fairly rare real wood versions, the “wood” grain on most P80’s is part of the underlying plastic itself. Kind of printed on ...

Pics?

Are your rolling diameters going to change?
In a word, no. The car doesn’t care about your
rim size. And your tire OD is pretty limited, so
I wouldn’t worry about brakes

Does it blow immediately? When you turn on the key? When you use signals?

And - Just for grins, unplug the hazard light switch and see if you still blow fuse 27.
If it fails, you may have a backup light issue, if not, you're probably still chasing turn signals.

If the security set ups across the pond are anything like
the ones in US spec P80's, you have two very different
systems between late MY 850's and the '98 70 series cars.
Can you post pics of the two fobs?

Just to keep things interesting - That fuse handles more than the directionals:

Is the battery charged, or are you just pushing it to move it?
The shifter interlock is electrical, so there has to be power available.

As for how it’s running, have you checked for codes?
The car will usually tell you what it’s upset about.
I’d start there before jumping to any conclusions.

Have you chased power through Big fuse 7 and little fuse 16? Those look like the only ones in the supply circuit. As far as the pins, I think that Volvo uses the same style all over the car. I suspect that you could grab a few populated connectors at the JY, cut the leads long and release some pigta...

HU-xxx HU’s were made by Mitsubishi for Volvo. The SC series of HU’s were all supplied by Alpine. You can find factory installed cables for the Alpine made systems in many P80 cars, just waiting for changer upgrades, especially the wagons. IIRC, retail Alpine cables will also work, but the actual Al...

I’m backordered six months on my Boy George Volvo key reminder upgrade You have me flashing back to the day that a local college station thought it would be fun to play "Safety Dance" on a loop while they were down for maintenance in the studio. Good Lord... It was devastating.. I would burn the car.

Call me weird, but I just buckle up. Done.

As for the U-Check lady, just look for a little speaker icon.
Most of them take two clicks to mute. She IS annoying...

Hi all! New Volvo owner here. I got a 97 850 a few months back. When I got it, the fuel guage, total mile and trip odometer were not working. According to the guy I got it from they stopped working after changing the timing belt around 146k. I've been using the digital trip odometer to measure fuel...

I move that Matt is The MAN - Any seconds?

Thanks to everyone for the information. My car is being inspected in a few days, so I am going to put this off for a week. I'm going to be pulling the dash to sort out all the noises (been there on my other car with success) and replace the heater core. Might as well do all of this at one shot. Whe...

I would add that I prefer the posters name at the upper left and agree with the previous comment about the thread’s title staying there, too. I really miss the richer, more saturated color pallette. The shallow, washed out look that has been “trending” in a lot of display tech recently is a lot more...

Hey, Matt - I hate to say it, but not a fan... Reduced contrast makes it less legible, not more. I agree with the overabundance of negative space. And is the font smaller, or is it just me? Honestly, IMHO, it wasn’t broke! I’m not here for a bold new look, I value the content, the comradery and some...

FYI, That power pack is mounted in the duct
just to the left of the blower motor.

99.9% of the time, the motor bearings wear and it begins using more power to continue turning. That in turn puts too high a load on the electronic “resistor” between the motor and the ECC control unit. You may just need a new motor, but both of these units could require replacement. It’s very unlike...

If your ‘98 S70 already has a remote module in the dash,
and you’re only missing the 9166200 fob, there should’t be
any reason to change the receiver module. Just get a hold
of a functional fob and have it programmed into the car.

FWIW, My ‘98 won’t lock from the fob when it’s running.
If I start it to warm up, I have to lock and unlock it from
the driver’s door key cylinder. Right to Lock, Left to Unlock.

IIRC-
Running, the doors will lock with the key in,
using the interior switches, but not the fob.

Engine stopped, door opened, then closed,
the car won’t let you lock the car at all if the
key is in the ignition.

IIRC...

Is your “key in the ignition” switch operating correctly?
The doors won’t stay locked if the car thinks the key is in.

Scenario - PS rack blows seals, oil wont stay in, you are 5 hours from home, $600 tow bill vs nursing it home. Thread is about trying to find a solution to drive car short term with no PS and not pouring 10 gallons of PS fluid onto Mother Earth Its being played out right now in PHL of course, in a ...

There are couple of questions I’m curious about.
Is it practical to operate a P80 without PS?
How difficult ( and safe ) is it to drive with disabled power steering?
And is the rack designed to last without hydraulic assistance?

SC-901...

Got an IR thermometer?
Run the test again, then
walk around and shoot the
temps for all four corners.

‘98-‘00 share the same turn hazard system.
All flashing is controlled by hazard switch that
is a known point of failure. Common issue is
that turns are solid, but hazards still blink.

In either event, repair or replacement of the
switch is the usual solution to no-blink issues.

Anyone run a surface area comparison?
3.14 is a significant multiplier.
And brass does conduct heat pretty well.

Just sayin’.

Coupe or convertible?
And don’t overlook the ‘03-‘04’s.
MUCH better headlights!

jerryb1961 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 04, 2019 3:04 pm Do '96 850 sedans have an antenna booster?

No. The amps were only used for hidden antennas like the
grids in the wagon side glass and back windows on S70s.
That box on your antenna is the relay for it’s mast motor.

If you really like the stock HU,
you know that Grom and a couple
of other outfits have BT adapters
that will plug straight in, right?

Sounds like the resistor to me, as to my knowledge that's the only thing controlling blower motor speed is the resistor. These are easy enough to fit and pretty reasonably priced. Here's a link to what is potentially the same problem by another poster on this forum: click me Not true. If the MCC fa...

The gist of it is that high speed (4) has a relay at the blower motor that totally bypasses the resistor pack and just puts full voltage right to the blower motor. Fortunately, this isn’t a new topic. More info and further details can be found here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic...

One could override the speed 4
full voltage relay to get heat for now.

And get those engine codes checked out. Your Check Engine light probably has messages stacked up for you. The good news? If the service light just comes on for two minutes when you start the car, it’s only reminding you that you’ve exceeded your mileage triggered service interval. It can be reset an...

Speeds 1,2,3 & 4 indicate that you have MCC (Manual Climate Control).
I agree with Neil - Sounds like your fan speed control has packed it in...

The tape transport doesn’t care what‘s on the cassette. It just wants to see tape moving and reverses direction to “flip it over” when it senses the tape stop at the end of the supply reel. It only looks at program content on the tape in NXT/RPT fast wind modes. And then, it’s looking for 5 second g...

If what you’re saying is true, then whenever
an illuminated cigarette lighter is used,
the dash lights would all go out.

Before you go messing with relays and fuses and tearing your whole dash apart, do yourself a favor and check the wiring to the cigarette lighter/aux power port. Cigarette lighter socket may be shorted open too. Any small metal debris that may have fallen into the socket can cause a short a kill the...

if someone feels like experimenting, around here, HVAC folks use a foil tape for sealing duct and galvanized 24 and 30 gauge vents and chimneys. Be sure to check the label for the temp rating. Both cold weather and high heat adhesives are available. Pretty dang shiny stuff! Example: https://www.amaz...

The coveted '03-'04 jewels are completely different lamps (H11), reflectors and glass. The output is much better and best of all, they bolt up nicely into '98-'00 S/V70's ... :mrgreen: And the aftermarkets aren't that bad: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=2004+volvo+c70+headlight Just be sure to...

Nice Pics! And even though they don’t get into C70 jewels,
mebbe string these two posts together and sticky’em?

The upside is that some time in -40
makes -20 feel like a walk on the beach!

Several years later and I'm getting great heat.
We hit -40 last week - No complaints.

Basic engine/emission related codes are generic.
For now, most auto parts stores will happily come
out and scan your vehicle right in their lot.

Pretty near all of these suggestions should throw codes.
I’d start with a “2nd opinion” from another OBDll reader.

Fob is still a 9166200, ‘98-00.

Not sure, but I believe that the
receiver is JUST a receiver and the
fob code is stored in the alarm head.

IIRC, there are two switches built into the door latches,
one for the security system and another for the lights.

If I knew squat about the newer cars, I’d be happy to throw in, but alas... I’m trapped in 1998! And these heated seats are soooo comfortable. :) The newer heated seats go up the back as well, I don't remember my P80s having heated seatbacks. :-) Oh, yeah.... It was -40 here last week. Trust me - T...

Here’s “Look for Joe’s” trail of XR bread crumbs:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/11 ... try2231555

And an Excellent AWD component sticky from over at SS:
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... s-Listings

If I knew squat about the newer cars, I’d be happy to throw in, but alas...
I’m trapped in 1998! And these heated seats are soooo comfortable.

I ask because this is the P80 area of MVS, only up to MY 2000.
The -‘01 and newer years are very different cars.

“Diamond Audio”? Definitely not stock. Unless you REALLY want to change the wood grain console facia, leave it. The entire dash is assembled before it’s installed in the car and all of the screws that hold that trim to the main dash are installed from the firewall side. It can be done without pullin...

What are you working on?
Your sig says 2002 P2...

We need details, Mr!

Fairbanks lost it’s dealership a good 20 years ago. The only one in the state still perseveres in Anchorage. Surprisingly, the friendly folks at Ft Wainwright and Eielson AFB churn through with some pretty cool rigs! A lotta XC90’s, P2’s, even the occaisional V70 R. :) Not to many P80’s or 700/900s ...

I may be going off on a bit of a tangent here, but I’d prefer the S70. Color me old school, but I prefer the tactile analog controls and lack of distracting “features” found in late model vehicles. In my humble opinion, touch screens are probably one of the most dangerous OEM additions ever installe...

Sources are incorrect.
Same setup from '98 - '00.

erikv11 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 04, 2019 1:20 pm And 850 fogs = H3.

H1 and H3 are identical bulbs, different bases. So just make the wiring connections work, as per nickelghandi's post.

To clarify, the V70 fogs will only work with H1’s.
If you get a set off of a donor vehicle, be sure to
harvest the fixture’s pigtails as far back as possible.

V70 Fogs = H1

Remove and Replace as needed.
That’s about it.

If it’s a P80, I’d consider an
Accessory Overload Relay.
If it’s a P2, I don’t know
that system.

Isn’t a Swedish 2000 a P2?
Unless I miss my guess, that’s
an entirely different set of variables.

Nobody here has mentioned the possibilty of the dreaded Flaking Reflectors. If you’re experiencing the scourge of a less than optimal reflective surface behind your lenses, no lamp, regardless of lumen output is gonna help... The best way to find that out is to pop off the glass and have a look. Not...

abscate wrote: ↑Fri Dec 21, 2018 3:50 pm You are getting a break in primary power to things, so the ignition switch and wiring all the way to the battery are suspect

This... Start with the basics of your heavy cabling
and connections from battery, alternator and B+ to
the main fuse box. All of the big primary grounds, as well.

Stand waaaaaay back when you open that!

Mine made it about 16 years - Stabilus only for replacements.
Be careful with the trim getting to the mounting points, but the
actual swap is pretty straight forward. Be sure to support the
hatch securely while you work.

abscate wrote: ↑Thu Dec 13, 2018 8:16 pm Those look worn out. ( great pic)

That's why I had to pull the hinge stops and stand it straight up!

FWIW - They look like this:

( In keeping - Kind Of - with the water theme )

Oh, c’mon! That’s a red herring...
The ringing will stop eventually.
Those pesky laws of thermo-dynamics.

It’s still early here... That’s all I’ve got.

erikv11 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 12, 2018 3:21 pm Please, make it stop!

Ok...
“Do hood springs wear out?”

NO. Not in our lifetimes.
Ask anyone with ‘72 Impala.

If you’re planning to replace the section that moves, might I recommend upgrading the wire. Especially if you open the tailgate a lot in colder weather. Either check with a specialty automotive electrical shop ( We also have several trailer supply stores and a couple alternative energy equipment dea...

The biggest issue is that you'd have to run the wiring for EVERYTHING to the new 4 x 100w amp location. Big power from the battery, the 6 pin DIN cabling for the pre-amp level inputs and remote turn-on and all 4 corners of the speaker outputs. Having the C70 harness would help a lot, but it would st...

Two out of three of those things will drop right into your wagon. I'd consider tracking down the 4 x 50w amp and cabling made for an S/V70 instead of trying to squeeze that big amp under the passenger seat. Sure, it can be done, but doing a good, clean job will take some time and effort. With the ri...

What about the Grom:
https://gromaudio.com/store/all-vol94.html

or Yatour options:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing ... 326&sr=8-1

This thread is knawing (sp?) on me. A disabled airbag is not ideal and the occupants should know about it. But do you nag friends who drive cars made before say 1990? All of those are more dangerous than an 850 without airbags. Overdoing it just turns people off and runs them out. It never affects ...

I just have to watch yelling at kids
to Keep the Heck OFF of My Lawn!

I don’ know about bs...
Most of the folks here at MVS
have just been on the planet
long enough to have lost someone
that could have been saved by a bag.

Maybe those posters are just looking out!
We aren’t very good at being mean-spirited around here...

Dave in Maine ...thanks for the Public Service reminder on a newcomer to winter. As I taught my many many youth drivers ( passing on wisdom from 1966) " double your travel time, double your following distance" in bad weather Very Good Points - No need to be in a hurry on ice. Just leave a little ea...

I can't believe that no one's mentioned heated seats.
LOVE the Heated Seats! Just enjoying them earlier today...

And that’s why the wagons ARE AWESOME!
‘course, those Mercs are pretty nice, too...

Dave in Maine is correct. I had all but forgot about snowshuvels and ice scrapers! Also whatever car you use during the winter it is important to always keep the fuel tank topped off full when storms are expected and not below 2/3 all winter. If you get stuck and need the heater during a storm you ...

FYI - Here's what you're woking with:
Hope that helps!

Gonna be tough...
Washer fluid tank is
buried way down there.
Maybe a vac syringe
with a really long hose?

I’m with June. Spare a nice Volvo from the salt! But if you must, I also go with the majority about having matching tires all the way around. IMHO, it’s Hands Down the safest way to run with winter tires. I have studded Nokian Hakkapelitta’s on all four corners and am really happy with them, but the...

misha wrote: ↑Fri Nov 02, 2018 2:59 am Trw and other brands i mentioned in previous post should last for a while.
If your control arms have just bushings failed...they are replaceable and they are pretty cheap.

AWD?

tryingbe wrote: ↑Fri Nov 02, 2018 1:26 pm Radio should just snap in.

Buy the storage box from Volvo. It's bigger and aftermarket.

OP is asking about Double DIN.

Safeco Full Coverage, LOTS of
pea gravel here - $20 per year
for complete glass and once I
mentioned Volvo, they insisted
on OEM/Pilkington. Through
SafeLite, BTW...

Now if we could get DOT to walk
away from the slimey brine that
they started spraying a few years
ago... Damn Climate Change!

How do you do an adjustment like that with the tape in and the unit back in the car? Also, does anyone know where the “code” to these radios lives? Like if I switch the faceplate from one radio does the code follow the face plate or does it follow the body of the radio? When I was doing this all th...

abscate wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:44 pm Undoing someone else’s hacked wiring is really advanced stuff.

I’ve used a couple “alternative” expressions under the dash...
And then they get upset when there’s a labor charge involved
“Just to return it to stock!?!”. Good Times...

Sounds like you’re on the right track! I’m with you on the stock deck. Alpine was building sturdy units for Volvo. But the draw of the BT side is strong... One other tape tip. Before you close it up, drop a high quality prerecorded tape in and you can align the head for best performance. Find the ad...