I’m with June. Spare a nice Volvo from the salt! But if you must, I also go with the majority about having matching tires all the way around. IMHO, it’s Hands Down the safest way to run with winter tires. I have studded Nokian Hakkapelitta’s on all four corners and am really happy with them, but the...

misha wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 02, 2018 2:59 am

Trw and other brands i mentioned in previous post should last for a while.
If your control arms have just bushings failed...they are replaceable and they are pretty cheap.

AWD?

tryingbe wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 02, 2018 1:26 pm

Radio should just snap in.

Buy the storage box from Volvo. It's bigger and aftermarket.

OP is asking about Double DIN.

Safeco Full Coverage, LOTS of
pea gravel here - $20 per year
for complete glass and once I
mentioned Volvo, they insisted
on OEM/Pilkington. Through
SafeLite, BTW...

Now if we could get DOT to walk
away from the slimey brine that
they started spraying a few years
ago... Damn Climate Change!

How do you do an adjustment like that with the tape in and the unit back in the car? Also, does anyone know where the “code” to these radios lives? Like if I switch the faceplate from one radio does the code follow the face plate or does it follow the body of the radio? When I was doing this all th...

abscate wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:44 pm

Undoing someone else’s hacked wiring is really advanced stuff.

I’ve used a couple “alternative” expressions under the dash...
And then they get upset when there’s a labor charge involved
“Just to return it to stock!?!”. Good Times...

Sounds like you’re on the right track! I’m with you on the stock deck. Alpine was building sturdy units for Volvo. But the draw of the BT side is strong... One other tape tip. Before you close it up, drop a high quality prerecorded tape in and you can align the head for best performance. Find the ad...

I usually check for voltage when the fuse is in place. Look for 12 volts on the two metal nibs on the top of the fuse. If you have voltage on one side, but not the other, there's your bad fuse. If there's nothing at all when the switch is active, I'd suggest getting to the back side of the switch an...

There’s no relay. If the switch illuminates when you turn it on,
that indicates that power and ground are both present at the switch.
Power leaves the rear fog switch on pin 4, the violet/white lead, and
runs through fuse 25 in the “C” box back to the fog light. Is that fuse OK?

WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 22, 2018 8:35 am

Make sure to check your overhead clearance if in a garage. Don't want to accidentally smash the shop light hanging over your work area... I'm still finding glass shards 6 months later.

AND your overhead door travel...
I’m not fallin’ for THAT one again! 🤨