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When I did mine, it kept getting hung up near the crank pulley, I had to remove the wheel and fit it there first. It’s easy for it to “feel” ok if not on correctly.

I had the same scare on mine. clean up the area with some brake clean and see if the leaks reappear. Mine have not and I believe it was left over residue from careless oil fills. I would also check the seal on the oil cap.

^^ I would get a pressure test on the coolant system before anything and check the transmission for coolant.

This is from on other site. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... atch+space

Glad to hear they worked. One of mine died, I just ordered 4 to go in with the next set of tires. I currently have rubber stems, these are metal so I am hoping that won’t be an issue.

No the 2.9 had a chain drive transfer case, the 2.5 has an angle gear.

Without codes being read, it could be anything. If it happened while touching the brakes, then I would bet on control arms or subframe bushings but because it didn't, I could be an ABS issue triggering a slip on a wheel.

good call. Here is a good thread on it with sound clips. viewtopic.php?t=87848

Sounds more like the angle gear let go. The part from volvo for 2005 to 2007 is 36000603 but it looks to be discontinued so it would take some investigation.

If it’s been leaking for a while, that alternator will be toast soon. Also, the valve covers can seep over time and then just let loose one day. Unless your going to fix that I wouldn’t bother.

TascaParts has it for 100 bucks cheaper new. There are also these people.. https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/360 ... G1314.aspx

If you are looking for that all-terrain tire, I ran Hankook Dynapro ATMs on my last XC. Long lasting, relatively quiet and the XC became a tank in mud and snow. The new version of ATM the AT2 is supposed to be quieter and appears to be less aggressive. I ran 90% highway and was originally concerned ...

That’s scary. Glad your ok. Are they replacing the whole arm? Lots of stress on the front bushing in this case.

I have the same exposed plug on my 2010 V8. If I had to guess, it would be for an accessory like the optional aux lighting kit. That being said, the code you have is system lean. I would look for air leaks around the intake especially vacuum lines and I noticed your air box is zip tied? maybe make s...

You could just put an LED bulb in there and jump power from the marker light below.

Have you watched this video?

Re-designs starting in 2011 across the model line.

Yup, starting with the p3 models, the electronic parking brake needs to be fully released. A service computer is the only way I know of to do this.

Check the battery and charging system. Low voltage really messes with these things.

With the bad coil, unburned fuel was just dumping down to the cat. Some distance with highway speeds would burn off any residual gunk. That being said, these codes are supposed to require two drive cycles to trigger the SEL. So if the codes are immediately coming back, they are either not being full...

Read through this: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... alve+cover

If you pull the dipstick while the engine is running and the noise changes, its the valve cover which is also an integrated PCV air box.

any update?

most TQ have to be seated to the transmission input shaft first... if you didn't do this, it's probably your issue..

The other thing to think about is, you said the belt looked new. If this one suffered a failed pulley bearing, it may have cracked the timing cover. so look closely around the tensioner and pulleys.

G is right, you need to inspect through the wheel... there have been some timing cover leaks documented, and if you are getting that much oil out (with UV dye) after a short trip, this would be the area in your pics. Also, I recently saw a post about the oil cooler leaking on another member's v8 ove...

Sounds like they reused the bolts. A new bolt from volvo will fix your issues. The collar size was updated. Also, these bolts are torque to yield so they shouldn't be reused.

Yeah try that. Both of those other variants wouldn't give the same feel. The FWD isn't locked front to rear when moving so the binding wouldn't be as bad and the T6 was chain driven not gear driven in the angle gear so there would be more slack there.

What other ones for comparison? What type of surfaces? If it’s sand or gravel or wet, this would be normal with tires that do not have great traction. As the turning radius increases the inner and outer wheels spin at different speeds. Typically tires will hold traction and absorb this “pop” or skip...

There are many cases where new control arms contributed to a pull. Unfortunately, you cant tell just by looking at them. The thing to do is get a camera under there and record while braking to see what the play looks like.

Loosen the barrel until the cable is loose and the stub is pulled back in. Tighten the barrel back up and put the clip in place (the teeth ratchet out while tightened down). remember to push the pedal down 3 or 4 clicks (to allow for slack after the tightening is completed). Once the barrel is reset...

I have a 2010 v8 and just put an AGM H8 in. So far so good. I went through two diehards in two years. I know the charging system had changed over the years so I am not sure if the two are apples to apples. Last night I did a double feature at a Drive-In so the radio was on for almost 4 hours. The lo...

Valve covers. That model year you also have to watch out for the balance shaft.

sounds like a lifter. for reference.

try using a blowdryer or heat gun to heat it up and then rub over it with ice cubes. or a can of compressed air (upside down) to freeze it.

What year?

you're absolutely right.. Duh..

Sorry.

this guy is pretty good also:

here is a good write up.

https://andrewpeng.net/cars/2006-volvo- ... eplacement

On mine, the epoxy backing of the bulb socket was cracked allowing water to pass. I sealed it up with silicone and all was good.

^^ this also. The mpg rating for that model was only 15 city/20 hwy. so if you do not much highway and your heavy on the pedal you are right on the money.

I don't think you have the right part number. the Bosch O2 Sensors at rockauto are only 87 each.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/vol ... ensor,5132

You could try holding the socket externally with a pair of vice grips and get the Allen wrench through the top.

The lower mileage V8s are becoming a rarity so someone will pay that price. I bought my 2010 2 years ago with 45k on the clock and it was 19k. I have put 60k on it without issue.

More likely that the parking brake shoes delaminated from the hit and are just floating around inside the rotors inner drum.

This is normal. It depends how the engines tuned also. I assume your Saab requires premium fuel which would contain more energy than regular and would even out the winter blend a little more.

Engine replacement? Looks slightly different.

First thing to do is check the fluid. You don’t need vida to do this. On a level surface with the engine running you pull the center plug in the transmission drain. I would definitely recommend at least a drain and fill first. If you can find a mechanic to do a flush using the transmission cooler li...

That particular model year has a particularly nasty issue with the center balancing shaft. The bearings let go. It’s reparable if you catch it, but if not it will destroy the engine. It’s also a complete tear down to replace. The mileage varies on failure greatly. Some never do some less than 100k s...

I would be more suspect to the flex pipe leaking than the manifold gasket... There have been more of these codes due to that and the thermostat as pgill states above.

Had a similar issue on a 2.5 and when it let go, it was dropping a qt of oil every 20 miles.... I wouldn't wait too long on that.

Actually after rereading your electrical post, have your battery tested. The drivers door could be a broken ground wire in the wire set that comes from the body to the door and the bulbs are notorious for fusing themselves back together for the stop lamps. They will burn or partially burn allowing f...

No check engine lights, power steering is working (but groaning a bit more than usual), and I haven't noticed any higher engine temp than usual (so I think water pump is going fine). I've been having electrical issues for months (occasionally get warnings that the stop signals are malfunctioning or...

Run away.... the fuel filter take about 10 mins to replace and is no more than 40 bucks. The one way clutch is on the R.E.A.D assembly. If it wasn’t spinning you would not have power steering or water pump. The alternator is on the opposite side under the intake and is driven by a direct coupler bel...

If they over torqued that lug, chances are they also did the others... if it was recent, have them replace the hub(s). If not, I wouldn’t mess around with it and just get it replaced.

Check the upper torque mount for side to side play. When they get loose, they rattle and it gives that metallic sound. The 40 dollar hutchinson from FCP is the volvo one with the volvo part number ground off.

Have you had the idler pulleys replaced? If not, I would not run that engine until you do. When those go it’s a bad day.

I think you have to pull the hub and then pull the axle through the assembly.

Any update?

I would pull the disc off and see if the parking brake shoes have delaminated. This has been known to happen with age on these.

have you read through this thread? viewtopic.php?f=10&t=83957&start=70 Kinked fuel line maybe?

try unplugging your mass air flow sensor. The computer will recognize it's not there and try to run the engine in "defaults".

Yes. Bad pump. Follow these steps to confirm.
https://xemodex.com/us/knowledgebase/de ... 2005-2010/

Agreed those codes don’t warrant a new transmission. Also, they state non active so they could have been stored from a previous event. How can you tell this is for a v8 and not an I6?

found this online. https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... locations/

What brand did you replace them with? there have been numerous accounts of cheap LCAs not performing correctly. For these I would highly recommend just having the bushings replaced with Volvo OE bushings or Myle HD versions (although, those will not last long if you do a lot of mileage).

First is to look at all of the connections under the seats and to make sure nothing got unplugged. The you will need to reset it with a volvo specific code tool.

You're lower control arm bushings are shot.

There have been lifespan issues with aftermarket axles. You could probably do better finding a used one from a newer xc90 with less mileage.

A common issue for shudder under heavy acceleration is the passenger side axle. It is very noticeable if you accelerate while changing lanes.

This message is usually due to the coils. Somewhere in the forums, someone mentioned that a bd t-stat on a 3.2 isn’t immediately obvious but stops the flow of coolant around the cylinders resulting in overheating of coils. The digital needle stays center. It’s worth checking out.

That’s insane. It’s almost criminal that these are being sold...

The spring which allows it to open at temp fails from the heat cycles.

So the DS spins freely when the car is parked? If so, it’s the angle gear. If it were the CEM (or any electric component) you would have a light.

Somewhat common, you'll see more and more if you do a general search for B6324 oil leaks. Guy from Massachusetts will likely post when he see this, here's a blast from the past in the meantime- https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?200085-Is-this-the-valve-cover-leaking&styleid=4 Write-up on...

This IS a very cool thread. Sorry you have to go through this, but threads like this expose the mystery of the V8 and seeing it torn down definately gives people confidence in owning one when it comes to at least valve cover gaskets and such. Keep it coming and thank you!

Thanks G- The weird thing is is the OP has a 2008.

Actually i was wrong. Not sure. I saw some other pics last night.

There is either a bad Haldex pump (happened to me) or the DEM. Both are replaceable, reparable. First thing to check is the fuse. Here’s a good thread. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... Haldex+dem

I think those were prior to 2007. Here is the part information from tasca

Genuine Volvo Parts
Volvo Parts
Manufacturer: Volvo
Part Number: 30674711
Part: Handle Cover
Replaces: 30649061, 8650071

There have been a few of these that puked due to elevation changes. Depending on where you traveled may have just finished it in.

The fuel pressure sensor is common. It’s a relatively cheap part and easy to replace. I would recommend that.

did the previous owner do the 75k major service? That would have included all fluids and plugs.

If not, definitely those. Also, at 100k I would flush the transmission and swap the rear diff gear oil and Haldex fluid along with the filter.

you can try to track down a leak after the MAF using propane or carb cleaner.

Definitely sounds like a leak somewhere. The ABS is a second issue.

So the alternator is actually on one side of the READ assembly and hidden under the intake, the brake booster is on the other side. I would absolutely have that Read (Rear Engine Accessory Drive) Assembly checked as if there is damage to that, the block could have cracked. If that air nozzle did in ...

It's actually the diaphragm in the PCV (round valve on top). You need to replace the whole box. It is also referred to as the AirBox by some dealers.

Hub sizes are different too. they wont fit without modification.

No, once you get it in, it sits in line from the amp to the speakers.

Just went through something similar with the wife's s60 t5. The variable timing control solenoid failed effectively putting far enough out of timing to not stay running at idle. Dealer thought it skipped a tooth but the vida test showed a close failure on the valve.

have the battery tested first. Low voltage from the batter can play games with the on board systems.

My nivomats have 208k on them and are still holding up fine..

mine doesn't flash, it just goes out. Its about 10 seconds. Key to position 1, press the trip reset button and hold while turning the key to position 2. You may hear a beep, but I can't recall if that is on my s60 or xc90.

That sounds like your torque converter is failing... Maybe the rough idle is being caused by it not releasing fully? or clutches are grabbing?

It's a single piece. https://www.google.com/search?q=xc90+3.2+catalytic+converter&sa=X&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS590US590&hl=en-US&biw=375&bih=591&tbs=vw:l,ss:9&tbm=shop&prmd=sivn&srpd=12298111834163885348&prds=num:1,of:1,paur:ClkAsKraX4_imHtxxvukEBP8IBXUQdu1K4ygYAhCc4dzw_0bTbzzqFyFGf91yGa22Zkj6MgB1MNI7DJxeJy...

Are they just loud or totally broken? The reason I ask, is my 08 has 201k miles on it and I just swapped my upper torque rod which quieted them down significantly. That being said, the whole unit flex pipes and rear cat is about 400 bucks USD (aftermarket). If you have to pull it anyway, it's probab...

Clockspring is my guess.

i think it's called the rear trailing arm on the xc90s. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... hgod2scN3g

When my fan died, I didn't realize how bad it was. Apparently the fan spins at different speeds to regulate temp, instead of just "On". Mine was always at a high speed and then it failed. The new one only kicks into high if I am sitting in 90+ degree heat in traffic. If your fan is not spinning righ...

I had a similar issue when I first got my 08. you could feel the vibrations under slight acceleration or making turns. It was the front axles. There is a TSB for those as the grease dries in the CV.

sounds like the check valve is messed up. That may require replacing of the housing. I am not sure on that. I do know that this is not normal.

Factory size is 235/65/17. I opted for the 245's because they have a much higher load rating than the 235's. I have put 3500 miles on them this month and they are doing really well. No issues with handling. I have noticed that gas mileage is down slightly and my speedo is off by 2 miles at 65mph.

As promised. Got them mounted today. I have put 120 miles on them and very impressed. I was not sure what to expect going from V rated street to T rated A/T tires but these are great. They are soft over the bumps and there is very little difference in handling. They are slightly noisier than my Toyo...

I can't really see the drip you are referring to, but that is a pic of the thermostat. It is possible that the plastic is cracked.

whats the mileage?

i just ordered a set of the ATMs in 245/65/17. When I get them mounted, I will post back. I had them on my Xterra (close to same weight) and they were fine. How often are you going to go past 120mph in the XC90?

I am running these http://www.nittotire.com/passenger-tires/nt421q-premier-all-season-crossover-suv-tire/ . So far I have put 30k miles on them and they are silent. They handle really well in dry and wet environments and are ok in the winter. Not so much in deep snow but highway slush and light snow...

This week my Front muffler fell apart. while inspecting, I noticed the front CV joint on the drive shaft has thrown grease everywhere. I just ordered the parts and while replace the joint and report back on the vibrations.

This is completely wrong. The Serpentine belt is a 150k mile service because you have to remove the AC compressor to move out of the way, remove the PS pump to separate from the water pump and then the belt can be moved. This service also should have the PS/Water pump coupler replaced along with ten...

I did get this straightened out. I took it to another dealer who immediately informed me that it was the front axles. The Axles get really hot because of the proximity to the catalytic converter. They switched out the axles and the drive was like skating on ice. I am now at 143k and I have a vibrati...

Backstory: I recently purchased my XC90 (2008 3.2) and at the time of purchase they had just done new pads all around and front rotors. That was 11.5k miles ago. It is a CPO and I just want to know what to expect when I bring it in. In the pic, you can see two DEEP groves cut into the rotor on the o...

bring it to a certified repair shop. They will introduce a special dye into the system and look for the leak with a black light.
an O-ring does not cost 1200 bucks.

You might have to pull them. What's the mileage? Have they ever been done?

did you check your CV joints?

bump to the top... the issue seems to be getting worse. I am now at 67k (5k in 5 weeks) and have been back to the dealer for a third time. They have stonewalled me saying that this is a normal characteristic of all XC all-wheel drive system. Any pointers would be great.
Thanks!

at 12:30, he shows how to remove the shifter.

Hi, I am new to Volvo but I have had similar codes on previous vehicles. A) yes you can still drive the car. This is an emissions control code. It will not effect the mechanics of the car. B) I would check your gas cap before the more expensive items. Did you get the code cleared? Autozone should be...

HI All, My first post here. I just picked up a CPO XC90 and am having what I think are issues with the CVs. I have been back to the dealer twice and they can't recreate the issue because it only happens after driving for about 15 or 20 mins. At first I get a vibration on acceleration at around 70 mp...

Hey XVTer, I remember you from the newx.org. I just traded the x in for a 2008 xc90 ( at 219k miles- yikes!) and am now having to relearn everything about maintenance... Looking good on yours. Where have you found a good place to source parts from in MA? Any dealers with more reasonable prices than ...