My experience was the Electrical part of the Key Switch. It has more than 1 section which gets operated by turning the Key. I disassembled mine and cleaned out excess Lubricant (Grease) which was holding one section open. As a test, try heating the key area with a blow dryer before starting the car ...

The Dealer told me that Volvo had upgraded the ETM, so that can't be my problem.

Xemodex replacement ETM cured it. (So much for the Dealer's input.)

My ETM failure was not at idle. It was at medium and heavy throttle. It would lose power, downshift, regain power unexpectedly. Idle was always fine ...

'99 V70 non-turbo
≈ 120K
Second ETM (Yellow) Dealer did Software and ETM at same time (≈ 95K?)

My symptoms were at medium and heavy throttle. It would loose power unexpectedly, downshift unexpectedly, power would return unexpectedly. All of this happened rather quickly and randomly.

This started ...

Well, I fixed mine. Warning! After this fix, it is very difficult (but not impossible) to remove from the car. It will cause the inside of the Cargo Cover Assembly to be 1/2" longer than it was originally.

I used 1/4", 3/8" & 5/8" Copper Tubing for the fix. I've attached some Pictures.

I first ...

I'm not sure which car you have, but most radios have two vertical "slots", one on either side of the radio face. Push them in and they should pop out enough to grasp them and pull the radio out.

Usually, two antenna connectors are for two antennae. The original radio may have had "Diversity Tuning" which has two tuners, one for each antenna, and it selects the best signal. As the car moves, the other antenna may get the better signal and the radio constantly switches between the two to keep ...

FWIW, my '99 V70 seems to be spot on - moving or not. The only thing I notice is a 2-3

And, in my experience:

1) Key Switch (around $50 if you do it yourself - fairly easy. I fixed mine for free)

2) Latch Assembly for Hatch (fixed mine for free with some ingenuity - no idea of retail costs) It was causing the "Door Ajar Light" to be On.

Rob3

Well, I did it. Took me 6.5 hours. My AC Compressor Clutch is now gapped at .3 mm and is working fine.

I removed the thickest Shim and reinstalled the Clutch plate. It measured at .49 mm. I removed the next thickest Shim (leaving only the thinest Shim) and reinstalled. Now measures just a hair over ...

Confirmed that Power is at Compressor during failure.

Checked Clutch Gap = .79 mm. Looks like I'll have to reshim Clutch to get back down to .3 or .4 mm.

I'll report when I get to it.