I had a hot RR hub and my friend and I figured out the cable was shot, so I read up and want to share what I learned while doing this last week. There are several good posts about taking E brake apart and adjusting it, so I'm going to comment on R/R the cable and tell you what I think can be done to make it easier starting out with:
inside, the 2 bolts by the handbrake adjusting nut and in front of the cigarette lighter are removed first. unplug the lighter and move the OBD data connector out of the console. Way down in are 2 T10 bolts to remove and I had to use small allen wrench to get the one on the left out:
All I did was move the console to one side or the other to get the cable end off. Decided I did not want to pull up carpet like Haynes says.
Outside again, the cable clip mounting bolt was hard to remove on the right with no access, so I used an industrial hacksaw blade. The little bit of screw left in the thick body metal piece was hard to get out, but I finally got it to screw on through and out the back. The bolt on the left side snapped right off 1/4in. down from the head, so I destroyed the old plastic piece here (after seeing a new mount comes on the new cable) and got the rest of the screw out with visegrips. Here's picture of the screw I sawed out and part of the broken old plastic mount:
I punched out the old rivet on both sides.
I wiggled the end piece a lot and then stripped some of the cable cover off to expose the small inside cable to be able to pull out the expander and take end piece out, see picture above and below. I decided to replace the expander(part #9475812) and mounting screws(986126), washers and rivets.
I decided to cut the square part of the cable off inside and pull a guide string down with the old cable in order to pull the new cable up under the particle board under the rug and to the attachment point. I used an old lawnmower catch bag pole to elevate the particle board enough top get the new cable in.
The first thing to attach new cable to is the expander, not the parking brake mechanism inside. I cleaned the insertion hole with battery post brush and sandpaper and then greased it prior to putting new cable end home. It took a short T30 on a small open end wrench to tighten the mounting bolt on the right side. Be sure to get the carpet under the console before putting in the last screws. On the left, I used vise grips to pull on the cable end and then push it into the mechanism.
P80 and 850 Ebrake cable replacement: 9209756
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
850 E-brake Cable Replacement: How To Instructions
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jblackburn
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Thanks Paul; I've added this to the repair database.
That job isn't a fun one - especially trying to stretch the new cable on. My E-brake pad fell off, jammed itself in the rotor, and popped the cable.
That job isn't a fun one - especially trying to stretch the new cable on. My E-brake pad fell off, jammed itself in the rotor, and popped the cable.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
- kcodyjr
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Rather than create a new thread, I think I'll tee this up for the next guy to find while searching.
Does anyone have a comprehensive parts list handy?
97 850 GLT in my case, but I'd imagine they're all the same.
I'm pretty sure I need cables because they don't quite seem to release, the handle has a "dead zone" before they engage at all, and when we tried to put new shoes and hardware in last year, they stuck, and the old shoes had to go back in. From what I've read, I've got a cable problem, and if one part is gone, the rest can't be far behind. I'd like to pay my indy once to overhaul the parking brake and be done with it.
Does anyone have a comprehensive parts list handy?
97 850 GLT in my case, but I'd imagine they're all the same.
I'm pretty sure I need cables because they don't quite seem to release, the handle has a "dead zone" before they engage at all, and when we tried to put new shoes and hardware in last year, they stuck, and the old shoes had to go back in. From what I've read, I've got a cable problem, and if one part is gone, the rest can't be far behind. I'd like to pay my indy once to overhaul the parking brake and be done with it.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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QuirkySwede
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cn90
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For those of you who have replaced the Parking Brake Cable, how long (how many hours) does it take for the whole job (both cables)?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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cn90
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Another question on brand name of Parking Brake Cable PN 9485386:
1. Volvo OEM---> $55/each, which is OK with me. he price is not too bad.
2. FCPeuro lists PEX brand ---> $35/each. Apparently PEX is OEM supplier, can someone verify?
3. eeuroparts lists "Nordic" brand ---> $15/each.
What is you guys' preference?
1. Volvo OEM---> $55/each, which is OK with me. he price is not too bad.
2. FCPeuro lists PEX brand ---> $35/each. Apparently PEX is OEM supplier, can someone verify?
3. eeuroparts lists "Nordic" brand ---> $15/each.
What is you guys' preference?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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QuirkySwede
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I'd allow at least four hours on a weekend. Could probably do it in two in a rush with zero service if done before, but it's an opportune time to replace the brake shoes, repaint the dust guard and caliper black, paint the un-swept parts of the disc silver (grill paint), etc. There's also the adjusting the brakes which can involve driving the car then pulling the rear wheels off to re-adjust the shoes. Break lugs free, battery, jack, stands, lugs off, wheels off, calipers, disc+drum, pull shoes, center console removal, door trim removal, unbolt seat (one side at a time), equalizer, string cable end, remove belly pan bolt, drill out swing arm rivet, lift and work under carpet (fun), pry cable retainer off barb, pull out front of cable, then backside (have to undo catch in shoe cam, requires full slack at console end), reverse order until seat bolted then other side (easier to work e-brake parts while sitting in one of the front seats).cn90 wrote:For those of you who have replaced the Parking Brake Cable, how long (how many hours) does it take for the whole job (both cables)?
Parts: Just make sure it's identical to OEM. Seen photos where cable ends were different and sheath was missing the socket. 9209756 looks correct for a FWD 98 S70, 9485386 ('99, '00 AWD S70) does not.
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cn90
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Below is a Volvo Dealer website (Kansas City dealer):
http://thevpstore.com/
If you enter 9209756 and 9485386, the price is the same...
But as you said one is for 2WD, and another is for AWD model.
http://thevpstore.com/
If you enter 9209756 and 9485386, the price is the same...
But as you said one is for 2WD, and another is for AWD model.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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QuirkySwede
- Posts: 137
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- Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
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PAIR of parking cables (FWD S70) $67 delivered. For those who hold on to their cars and receipts, local auto parts shoes/pads with lifetime warranty are hard to beat. Lost track how many it's saved me buying another starter, alternator, shoe set, pad set, etc. (not all on the same car, mind you
) years later. Once, they discontinued a pad set so upgraded them AND carried the warranty over. 
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cn90
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My feelings about Parking Brake Cables, an issue that I don't have much appetite for...
- Even a brand-new car from showroom, the Parking Brake is very weak anyway.
If you find an empty road, go to 30-40 mph, put the car in neutral and apply the Parking Brake, it will barely slow the car down.
- Let's say God forbid, you lose total brake control (bad master cylinder, or bursted corroded metal lines or brake hoses etc.), the Parking Brake is close to useless, it will slow you down but it will take a long distance to come to a full stop. In this dire situation, you probably have better luck with shifting down to 1st gear (MT) or Low (AT)...
- The bottom line is: the Parking Brake is basically good only for parking the car on driveway etc. and not much else.
- I have brand-new rear rotors and shoes. My Parking Brake Cables are cracked in a few places, I applied oil/grease and rubber hose as a temp fix until the weather warms up and until I have a free weekend.
- Replacing Parking Brake Cables in any car is always a PITA job. A lot of work for minimal gain.
- Now if you live in a State with annual inspection, then it is another story.
These are the reasons why I don't have much appetite to replace the Parking Brake Cables...
- Even a brand-new car from showroom, the Parking Brake is very weak anyway.
If you find an empty road, go to 30-40 mph, put the car in neutral and apply the Parking Brake, it will barely slow the car down.
- Let's say God forbid, you lose total brake control (bad master cylinder, or bursted corroded metal lines or brake hoses etc.), the Parking Brake is close to useless, it will slow you down but it will take a long distance to come to a full stop. In this dire situation, you probably have better luck with shifting down to 1st gear (MT) or Low (AT)...
- The bottom line is: the Parking Brake is basically good only for parking the car on driveway etc. and not much else.
- I have brand-new rear rotors and shoes. My Parking Brake Cables are cracked in a few places, I applied oil/grease and rubber hose as a temp fix until the weather warms up and until I have a free weekend.
- Replacing Parking Brake Cables in any car is always a PITA job. A lot of work for minimal gain.
- Now if you live in a State with annual inspection, then it is another story.
These are the reasons why I don't have much appetite to replace the Parking Brake Cables...
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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