98V70/T5: LR Door Actuator Motor Rework

[sleddriver]

It's bakin' in Fajita Flats here again and I noticed that when the drvr side is facing square to the Sun for long, both drvr. side actuator motors get very slow. Same thing going on with the RR door as well. These are now 18yrs old and have never even been cleaned.

Decided to go after the LR one today. Inside trim removal very straightforward. Noticed that several plastic door trim mounts have separated from the door itself. Not sure if hot glue would be up for this job. I'll have to experiment. Sonneborn NP1 is definitely up to the job, but would have to allow it to cure overnight, well-clamped into place.

I assumed the rear doors were as easy to remove as the fronts. However, couldn't find any connector in the door frame to unplug the wiring harness. I was looking forward to just removing the door, and bringing it indoors where it's nice, cool & dry. No joy.

Removing the door lock is the same PITA as the front. There has to be some judo-move to slide it out quickly, but I didn't discover it.

Brought the whole thing indoors to my work bench. Separating the plastic motor cover was rather straightforward. I used a pencil torch to heat up the plastic seam on top, before beginning to work it loose. Managed to pop it loose with no cracks or breaks.

The metal motor housing was in rather rough shape, so I cleaned it up with a wire brush wheel chucked in the drill press. Prying out the tiny motor tabs actually bent one of my already-bent pickers so use one up to the job. Pried open the cases and found lots of black carbon dust inside. I sprayed it away using an electric motor cleaner.

Pulled the much-discussed-thermistor out and pounded a solid copper 10ga wire flat until about 1mm thick. When trimmed, this fit fine. I used a wire brush in a Moto-Tool to gently clean the commutator. The brushes looked fine, with plenty of wear left.

I put a drop of sewing machine oil on the rear motor shaft bushing, both inside & out. Reassemble with care as both brushes need to be moved clear before pushing the motor shaft in so the brushes are seated back on the commutator. When the motor case was rejoined, I added another drop of oil on the opposite end of the shaft.

I lubed the gear train with a "clear penetrating grease" made by Zep. Sealed the motor case back using hot glue and a brief clamp.

Next, I applied the greast to every sliding point/joint I could. I found more than 15 in, on and around this mechanism. Having received no care for 18 yrs, I figured the time had come. Plus the motor has move all of this to operate the lock, thus lower friction will keep the motor happy, especially when it's baking in the Texas Summer Heat!

For some reason, reinstalling the lock was easier than removal. I did have to remove the outer door handle though to ensure it engaged.

I found several of the inner door panel anchors had popped off, so since the glue gun was hot, I seated them. Time will tell if it's up to the job. If not, then on to NP1.

Next, I'll have to fix the pass. side rear door actuator. It'll go faster having fixed one previously! I'm also reminded that when the drvr door latch wouldn't allow me to no longer open it from inside, I replaced it with a used one rather than pony up the $$$. That motor now needs refurbishment.

BTW, I found a CN90 link containing several applicable part numbers for the lock mechanism, but with differing prices.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=57741
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/fo ... ement.html
http://volvopartslisle.com/assembly/447 ... ing-System
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/vie ... 5&start=10