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98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Volvo Repair Database 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II  Topic is solved

Post by sleddriver » Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:17 pm

Following up on Tryingbe's theme, here's a list of sled-work performed over the past eight months. I did all of it myself, except for the alignment. It's occupied ALL of my free time + badly encroached on lots of other time I usually spend on other tasks like yard work, house maintainence, contract work, woodworking, excercise, social visits, etc.

1. Original ETC sensor went Tango Uniform, making the sled very difficult to start in 50°F weather. Female socket crumbled. Will rebuild later. Found Volvo part in BA box locally for $27.
98 V70 Cold Start Problem Solved
ECT Connector Failure - Fixed

2. ECC lost it's head, blowing 100% HOT air towards drivers side. Pulled ECC code indicated a faulty driver temp control damper motor. Pulled & tested; it was fine. Extensive schematic reading & voltage testing revealed the ECC was itself faulty and wasn't capable of testing itself: Above ckt had a faulty motor driver that wouldn't reverse polarity. $100 for local & on-line used part. Got lucky and found one in a PNP for $16 that actually worked. Also discovered fault in Autodiagnos' motor calibration program.
98 V70 ECC-211 Damper Motor Position Sensor Fault
98 V70 ECC Driver HOT Passenger COLD Issue

3. Discovered turbo WG severely out-of-spec. Unfortunately, it's been like that since 1998 when I bought the car used from a dealer. They must have detuned it when it served as a loaner....
98 V70 Wastegate Rod Adjustment Results

4. Leaking WP gasket discovered. Later fixed.....
98 V70 Hepu WP Gasket Leaking
Front Crank Seals & Water Pump Leaking

5. IPD skidplate bushings replaced.

6. T-stat gasket split, causing coolant leak on garage floor. During replacement, discovered upper original radiator hose was coming apart from the inside out.

7. Discovered TB was riding outside of the TB idler pulley upon inspection! Warned to not drive the car until it's fixed.
TB Idler Pulley Offset w/ Belt

8. Replaced WP gasket, TB, idler & ten pulleys with OEM parts. These pulleys were all worn after 7yrs/70 kmi. New TB rides in the middle...where it should.
TB & WP Gasket Service

9. All coolant hoses save for heater, replaced with OEM. Remaining turbo compressor vacuum hose also replaced.
Lower Turbo Vacuum Hose Stuck

10. Auto transmission fluid flushed.

11. Power steering boots torn; rack's been leaking for years. Installed new boots. Flushed PS fluid. Added AT-205 which actually stopped the leaks! Cleaned up the mess down below. Leaks stopped and pump no longer noisy.
Power Steering Service
Power Steering Service

12. Outer TR boots torn. Replaced with Meyle HD outer tie rods. Sled needs an alignment.

13. Coolant tank cap replaced last year has now split. Installed a better part.

14. Broken plastic clip on front air dam repaired so it latches once again.

15. Misfire codes pulled. Bougi wire set displays blue glow after many years. Needs replacement. Tracking found in dist. cap & rotor. Both cleaned up and plug wires replaced. New spark plugs installed.

16. Oil filter replaced.

17. ABS light illuminated after a long period of darkness. Investigation reveals previous fix finally failed. One bolt head stripped during removal. Ground off with Moto-tool. Motor terminals fixed again by widening contact with board. Reinstalled and ABS light now off. New bolts installed.
ABS Module Repair

18. Both front wheel guards reinstalled with new rivets.

19. Brake pads on all four corners replaced. Rotors OK. Brake fluid flushed with new.
Brake Pad Options

20. Cabin air blower speed very unstable on original OEM blower. Investigation revealed the commutator flat worn out. Replaced with new unit. Evap. core also cleaned and new cabin air filter installed.
Blower Motor Lubrication
Cabin Blower & Evap Core Service

21. Radiator fan began running with key out. Fault traced to faulty ETC female socket mentioned earlier. Extensive corrosion noted. Wiring & socket replaced using tinned copper, teflon-insulated wire.
ECT Connector Failure - Fixed

22. Discovered large, rigid, plastic PCV line from sep. box to intake was cracked just below distributer, rendering system inoperative. Fixed cracked section with a 4" section of silicone vac hose until I'm able to update hose per MVS recommendations. (Entire PCV system was replaced previously and this hose was cracked in-the-same-place! Fortunately no clogs were detected due to 100% synthetic oil use).
Hard Plastic PCV Pipe Broken

23. Rotted bumpers on both rear seat latches replaced with a pad of Sonneborn NP-1.
Rear Seat Latch Rattle Solved

24. Upon replacement of upper torque bushing, discovered Meyle replacement was too small! Previous OEM unit was reinstalled and remedy sought from Meyle.
Issue with Meyle HD Upper Torque Bushing

25. All electric door latch mechanisms began to slow/fail in Summer heat. Passenger door lever frozen; unable to open door from inside. Internal fault was worn out plastic, allowing metal cable holder to shift. Fixed with a brass screw. All four latch motors were cleaned, lubricated, as well as latch mechanisms. Multiple failures on adhesives used on HD polyethylene, allowing motor cover to seperate inside, disabling latch. Finally solved using UL-181BX acrylic adhesive duct tape.
Door Latch Motors Repaired
Bonding HD Polyethylene

26. Several internal door panel mounts failed during the above and needed to be reglued to ensure panel would remain tightly in place.

27. RR door latch mechanism later quits due to internal spring failure. Obtain PNP replacement and rebuild as above.
Door Latch Internal Spring Failure

28. Wicked P0-455 code returned: GROSS Evap Leak. Later traced to faulty 6 mo. old OEM gas cap seal. Replaced. Went away. Now it's back in Sept!
EVAP System Operation
P0-455: Gross EVAP Leak
Tracking Down EVAP Leaks with Smoke

29. Found (some) fog light parts @ PNP. Finally secured all save for shortened air dam inserts. (Still looking....).
Fog Light Schematic Q
Fog Light Installation Q

30. Went for alignment only to be told by one shop rack is too worn! Odd that....went to another. Thrust angle off to driver side. Front end over toed-in by 3X too much. Steering wheel recentered. Noticeable improvement in ride quality & lower vibration. Haven't added any fluid to PS rack for months now!
Steering Rack Too Worn for Alignment?

31. Oil and coolant spots on garage floor. WP gasket leaking due to not using new bolts. Didn't realize at time of replacement some bolts exit the rear! Leaked stopped with new bolts which come with RTV on threads.
Reseal Water Pump

32. Noticeable steering wheel vibration over speed bumps, rough roads and upon start traced to absence of lower, metal knee bolster which serves to tie wheel mount to both outer and inside console. Reinstallation eliminated all wheel vibrations. Pass. side bolster & cover also reinstalled along with glove box. (This was all previously removed while troubleshooting ECC fault noted above, cabin blower motor installation and fog light relay installation).
Steering Wheel Vibration Caused by Missing Knee Bolsters

33. Inspection revealed front, lower torque and both hydraulic motor mounts were Tango Uniform. Explained sharp, coarse, "crashing" of front end over rough roads & pot holes. Replacement of all was a major undertaking without a lift or engine hoist, but results were well worth it as lower torque & both hydrau. motor mounts were original (18yrs old). Engine sits much higher in bay and easily rocks by hand. Back end of motor no longer sits on sub-frame.
Reflections on Refitting Lower Hydraulic Motor Mounts

34. Oil discharge on pass side diagnosed to leaking 7yr. old front camshaft seals last replaced by indy. Removal was quite difficult as they were fossilized in place and came out in pieces. New seals installed. Mess cleaned up yet again and no more oil nor coolant leaks in garage!!
Cam Timing Q
Reflections on Front Cam Seal Replacement

35. Various front & rear vibration issues to sort out.
Rear End Vibration
More Rear End Vibration

I'm finally finished...nine months later. Quite a marathon of work...one-thing-after-another-after-another. No wonder people ditch these cars. Not sure how much all of this would cost if someone else were to fix it. $4000? $5000? $6000? I spent about $550 in parts and fluids.

No doubt I left out a few things, like a lot of time spent cleaning grease, oil, coolant, grime off the underside. Makes me tired just typing it all! However, it is ALL NOW DONE and behind me, and no longer leaks, and rides very nice. Shocks, struts, spring seats, upper strut bearings, lower control arms, CV joint boots, tires, extensive P0-455 dragon slaying, were all replaced last year & year before. (Even more work and $$$ to add to the list.....).

I bought the sled from a local dealer in 1998 with 12 kmi on the odometer. Current mileage is about 214,500. She came out of the factory in Aug. 1997, so she's officially 19 yrs old! Never owned any car this old, nor this long. Previous milestone was a 1985 SAAB 900T I bought new, drove for 14yrs and racked up 256,000mi on many journeys. Gas was MUCH cheaper then plus I had more time for car trips, camp outs, travels. Lots of great memories. The SAAB was MUCH easier to work on, much simplier systems too. More room with an in-line four cylinder.

I've driven Swedish Steel only since 1985 and only two cars. Hard to argue with that. There have been times though.......................

I have gained a GREAT RESPECT for all mechanics that do this work, day in and day out, in the heat & humidity and constant grime, dirt, oil, coolant, not to mention customers complaining about the bill. Cheers & beers to yall. Prosit!

Caveat Emptor to any & all who would pick up one of these old cars "cheap" without knowing or turning their own wrench. You'll either soon learn or go broke trying as both your patience & wallet will be sorely tested!
Last edited by matthew1 on Thu Sep 22, 2016 3:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: replaced entire post with Sled's 2016/9/22 update (added links)
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1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by tryingbe » Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:26 pm

Last edited by tryingbe on Sat Sep 10, 2016 10:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
85 GLH, 367 whp
00 Insight, 72 mpg

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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by rspi » Fri Sep 09, 2016 11:05 pm

I seen a guys list tonight, $15,560 in 2 years. 2000 V70 SE.
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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by FinallyGotThatVolvo » Sat Sep 10, 2016 9:04 am

As much as I enjoy these cars, I'd rather just break down and get a car payment...
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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by j-dawg » Sat Sep 10, 2016 10:16 am

I did that. If you can afford it, it's totally worth making the Volvo a hobby car rather than a DD. I enjoy the experience much more now that I can wrench on it when I want to, rather than when I have to.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~270k mi | burns more oil than gasoline

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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by tryingbe » Sat Sep 10, 2016 10:25 am

rspi wrote:I seen a guys list tonight, $15,560 in 2 years. 2000 V70 SE.

New transmission, engine, and suspeion.... twice?
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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by 98v70dad » Sun Sep 11, 2016 9:31 am

Mine has been rocking on without too much trouble lately. I need to replace all 4 rotors and probably the last two engine mounts. The hanging headliner and seat covers can wait. One thing for sure, you are dedicated. Impressive effort, sir.

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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by abscate » Sun Sep 11, 2016 11:49 am

We bought out T5 new and SWMBO Drove it for keeps. I did the original PVC at 165k+ and it was less than 10 % blocked, even with Dino oil changed very 5k

ETM replacement has been the biggest out of pocket repair, I've done all the rest with my labour. The only one I was scared of was the rear delta links, but on removal mine crumbled like a croissant, so that job was easy.
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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by scot850 » Sun Sep 11, 2016 1:11 pm

I'm way over the figures quoted on the 'R' in repairs, not included my countless hours of work. Boss reckons we are into the car for well over $20k CDN, and the car has been driven 5000 miles in that time!

No what makes these cars expensive is the A??hole government people in the US. My brother and I drove 200 miles to the border to deliver the 850 project to California to be turned around or have the car impounded as the Border Patrol Hitler decided we didn't have the car to spec. That is in spite having all the correct paperwork (he agreed). We knew the speedo had to be changed to MPH which fixed also the only other issue of the warning light symbols, but we were told that on NO ACCOUNT by the DMV should we change the speedo from kph until they saw the car, and it has to be registered with that and then changed. Their paperwork even has a spot for filling in kph!! E-mail from the US Border Control also confirmed we had everything in order. Told to come on the weekend as quieter, but naturally nothing else is open and they have cell phone blockers at the border station.

Cost us $600 + a days pay + a 9 hour 640km round trip for my brother who is a contractor.

That is why the cars are so expensive!!

2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
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2015 Kia Sportage EX-L
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1998 V70 XC - Sold
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Re: 98 V70/T5: How These Cars Can Be So Expensive-II

Post by cn90 » Sun Sep 11, 2016 3:13 pm

Old cars always cost more to maintain.

Unless the car was well-cared for by the P.O. or you have a lot of time/money/hobby to fix these old machines, this is my 2-cent view on used cars.
I will use arbitrary numbers: $2.5K, $5K, $10K figures.

Sure if you have $10K, the car is generally better and has fewer issues. You can get good $10K car from 2006-2008 with 80K miles or so.
I bought a 2005 XC90 2.5T with 80K for $10K, so far nothing to fix other than mundane oil changes, tires, brake work. Nothing big.

If you buy a 1998 S70 with 160K miles now for let's say $2.5K, chances are you will pump a lot of time/money/hobby/effort into it.
By the time the car is "Stage zero", your cost is another let's say $2.5K, total = $5K.

Having said that, it is probably more economical to buy a $5K car to start with.

This is why when you check ANY cars using Kelly Blue Book (or NADA), by the time the odometer shows 160K or so, there is not much value in the car.

PS: I still keep my 1998 S70 GLT with 180K b/c I have had it for a while and basically brought it back to Stage zero. And it runs fine for now.
People can't believe it has 180K miles on it, simply b/c I take good care of it.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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