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Rust protection improvement

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

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FireFox31
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Rust protection improvement

Post by FireFox31 »

In my car accident thread, a few people suggested that my car needed its rust protection improved, including inspecting the frame beams. How can a car owner in the United States get their rust protection improved?

I only know of three rust protection systems. Line-X which sprays a coating on truck bed liners but may also work for car undercarriages. In New England, many shops will apply oil or Fluid Film to a car's underside each fall to protect it from winter road salt. The option I was strongly planning to use was the Rhode Island company Auto Rust Technicians, who sandblast and permanently coat the car's underside.

I'm nervous that the sandblasting would damage thin fluid pipes and rubber hoses. Also, the coating might interfere with moving parts, including making nuts and bolts harder to remove.

I plan to replace parts which are rusted if they don't seem to have structural integrity. My first target is the front shocks and struts, though they feel solid. I've been replacing other, simpler parts when I find them (nuts, bolts, brackets).

Honestly, I feel my 2000 V70 has superior rust protection from the factory. It is way better than my 2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 wagon which has rusted through a number of body and structural areas. Is my assessment wrong, such that I need to refresh the rust protection? What company can do this, specifically in New England, USA?
FireFox31
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I’ve busted knuckles on 7 Volvo’s Now,and they are the best rust protected brand I’ve worked on.

Fluid film is cool, wcm has it on his car
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Rattnalle
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Post by Rattnalle »

I'd agree fluid film is the way to go.

It won't affect getting stuff off the car when needed. It'll rather make sure you still can by preventing stuff from sticking.

And yes these cars are very well protected already. But eventually it gets through even good protection. My comment in your other thread was mostly a suggestion to make sure it was structurally sound as part of checking if it's possible/worth doing the repair.

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Clemens
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Post by Clemens »

+1 for fluid film.
Summer: 1996 855 R
Winter: 1994 855 T5M
Donor: 1995 854 10V

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FireFox31
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Post by FireFox31 »

I saw Tectyl mentioned in another forum as a corrosion protection product. Once I get my car in shape, I will consider this for corrosion resistance.
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
Black 2000 V70 NA automatic, "Geronimo" - rescued, rehabilitating
Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab

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Post by abscate »

abscate wrote: 25 Nov 2019, 17:29 I’ve busted knuckles on 7 Volvo’s Now,and they are the best rust protected brand I’ve worked on.

Fluid film is cool, wcm has it on his car
I lied about wcm’s csr, I’ll get him to cough up the product name.

Aero 303 or something like that?
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shegarty
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Post by shegarty »

Regardless of what rust protection you use (on any vehicle) you need to make sure that you are able to get it into the insides of the frame rails. There are special spray nozzles that some brands market (KBS Coatings have a decent one) that allow access to these and other hard to reach places. You can also make up your own fairly easily with Shop Straws which are basically just longer versions of the little red straws that come on most spray cans. Speaking from lots of experience dealing with rust in Canukistan older Volvo's are by far the best protected vehicles from the factory. If you can get into the hard to reach areas ahead of the salt they should literally last forever.
98 S70 T5 SE 298k km (daily)
87 740T sedan (current project)
previous - 90 745T; 94 855 T5

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Post by abscate »

Speaking from lots of experience dealing with rust in Canukistan
:D :D :D
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Post by Rattnalle »

FireFox31 wrote: 03 Dec 2019, 20:18 I saw Tectyl mentioned in another forum as a corrosion protection product. Once I get my car in shape, I will consider this for corrosion resistance.
Tectyl is just the brand.

You'll want a fluid waxy film closest to the metal and in every little corner of the inside of the car. Then you'll want to cover that with a thicker, usually bitumen based, coat on top everywhere that's exposed to wear from road spray.

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Post by JimBee »

Where there's already some rust, you can try POR 15:
https://www.por15.com/

Plus the company sells a complete line of preventive products.

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